I have enough for the bug But decided to also do the fan shroud upgrade for the 1600 in the Speedster D,
I need the studs that hold the stock oil cooler on.
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I have enough for the bug But decided to also do the fan shroud upgrade for the 1600 in the Speedster D,
I need the studs that hold the stock oil cooler on.
I need the studs that hold the stock oil cooler on.
Barry....Local hardware store and lop off the metric bolt heads
Got any pics on this mod?
BT, you need 2 studs that are slightly over 4" long for the 2 longest studs to mount the 914 or type 4 cooler on the plate. The studs can be sourced from the 914 itself, or made up from round stock and threaded (6mm as I best recall) or the plate can be redrilled and tapped for an appropriate "all thread" rod size. Most of the longer metric bolts I have seen do not have sufficent threads (length) just to chop off the heads and still have 4" of threads in a 6 mm dia....
I was under the impression these studs are class 8 or higher.
I think Jake had a warning about this when substituing them in T-1 mounts. You just shouldn't use common tread stock.
I have a new question Were can you get class 8 or higher treaded stock, like they use on airplanes?
I think Jake had a warning about this when substituing them in T-1 mounts. You just shouldn't use common tread stock.
I have a new question Were can you get class 8 or higher treaded stock, like they use on airplanes?
I could post some pics But Iv'e done painted and sent the first one over to the shop.
I have the stuff to do the second shroud But not just yeat. I just widen the oil cooler case an the 2 exit tins . Sharpbuilt of Australlia offers a kit in fiberglass. But I wanted it all steel.
I have the stuff to do the second shroud But not just yeat. I just widen the oil cooler case an the 2 exit tins . Sharpbuilt of Australlia offers a kit in fiberglass. But I wanted it all steel.
Barry,
Not to over react to your comment but why would a grade 8 material be needed on the oil cooler studs? I can assure you that mine are dead soft mild steel, original to a 914, and I got them from Jake, and paid through the nose I might add.
There are no real torque measurements specified or required on these nuts or the studs, if you apply enough pressure to stretch / break mild steel you will collapse the oil cooler itself, even mild steel is stronger than the aluminum cooler materials.
My official VW service manual (Bently) does not call out a torque for these at all, all that is required is to fully collapse the rubber seals......
And oh by the way, the 914 / type IV cooler is entire inadequate for my engine....and it may be for yours too...a subject already covered at some length in other threads..
Not to over react to your comment but why would a grade 8 material be needed on the oil cooler studs? I can assure you that mine are dead soft mild steel, original to a 914, and I got them from Jake, and paid through the nose I might add.
There are no real torque measurements specified or required on these nuts or the studs, if you apply enough pressure to stretch / break mild steel you will collapse the oil cooler itself, even mild steel is stronger than the aluminum cooler materials.
My official VW service manual (Bently) does not call out a torque for these at all, all that is required is to fully collapse the rubber seals......
And oh by the way, the 914 / type IV cooler is entire inadequate for my engine....and it may be for yours too...a subject already covered at some length in other threads..
here's what my type IV cooler mod looks like.
Addition of external cooler(s) in addition to the type IV is recommended.
Greg
Addition of external cooler(s) in addition to the type IV is recommended.
Greg
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The speedster is a bone stock 1600. enuf said
Now the bug will be a 1698cc engine .but with the 1-5/8 header.
A non heater outlet fan shroud with a T-4 cooler. are you sure its not enough for this very mild engine? I know i will have to let it be a schose on the rich fuel mix side to lower the head temps.
I will be getting close i know.
Now the bug will be a 1698cc engine .but with the 1-5/8 header.
A non heater outlet fan shroud with a T-4 cooler. are you sure its not enough for this very mild engine? I know i will have to let it be a schose on the rich fuel mix side to lower the head temps.
I will be getting close i know.
Barry, for a 1600 cc engine the type IV oil cooler should provide all the cooling you will need. Even with more carb, more cam, more exhaust, etc the 914 used these up to 2 liter.....
In my case the type IV oil cooler did not cool a 2332 cc fairly radical engine nearly enough, not even marginally.
I have learned that wrapping exhaust tubes/headers with heat tape, as well as placing a metal shield between the j tube and the pushrod tubes will cool down oil temps up to 25 degrees, maybe more.
Also, in a Speedster you have the option of sealing the upper engine compartment off via more or less conventional shrouding and tins. I would encourage doing that if not already done. In Spyders that is not an option so our cooling air is usually preheated for us, just to complicate everything....my under bonnet temps are usually 25-40 degrees over ambient, and that is not good for induction, cyl cooling or oil cooling.
In my case the type IV oil cooler did not cool a 2332 cc fairly radical engine nearly enough, not even marginally.
I have learned that wrapping exhaust tubes/headers with heat tape, as well as placing a metal shield between the j tube and the pushrod tubes will cool down oil temps up to 25 degrees, maybe more.
Also, in a Speedster you have the option of sealing the upper engine compartment off via more or less conventional shrouding and tins. I would encourage doing that if not already done. In Spyders that is not an option so our cooling air is usually preheated for us, just to complicate everything....my under bonnet temps are usually 25-40 degrees over ambient, and that is not good for induction, cyl cooling or oil cooling.
I haven.t even seen the new engine yeat but I do want to wrap the 1-5/8 sidewinder exhaust. and even add some alumiun heat deflectors .
The new bug engine will be a 1698 cc 85.5 bore w/t a 74 stroke Only 8.5 to 1 compression twin carbs and remote oil filter. Do you think this is a reasonable set up? for daily street also re member this car will be a fully automatic when findshed.
The new bug engine will be a 1698 cc 85.5 bore w/t a 74 stroke Only 8.5 to 1 compression twin carbs and remote oil filter. Do you think this is a reasonable set up? for daily street also re member this car will be a fully automatic when findshed.
I haven.t even seen the new engine yeat but I do want to wrap the 1-5/8 sidewinder exhaust. and even add some alumiun heat deflectors .
When I put something together I expect and demand that it stay together. I need the better studs. Im not a spring chicken any more.
The new bug engine will be a 1698 cc 85.5 bore w/t a 74 stroke Only 8.5 to 1 compression twin carbs and remote oil filter. Do you think this is a reasonable set up? for daily street also re member this car will be a fully automatic when findshed.
When I put something together I expect and demand that it stay together. I need the better studs. Im not a spring chicken any more.
The new bug engine will be a 1698 cc 85.5 bore w/t a 74 stroke Only 8.5 to 1 compression twin carbs and remote oil filter. Do you think this is a reasonable set up? for daily street also re member this car will be a fully automatic when findshed.