Adjusting my camber--what tool for the adjusting bushing ?

I obtained a neat tool for measuring camber degrees positive or negative and see that my front end's camber is way off being 1 3/4 degrees positive on the drivers side and 1/2 degree negative on the passengers side. I want to go to 1/2 degree negative camber on both sides.

I need someone to tell me where to obtain a tool for adjusting the eccentric camber adjusting bushing. (It really looks like a big ole flat nut). In my Bently manual the tool to use looks like a thin sort of box wrench but pretty large---maybe 21 or 22mm.
It has to be thin to fit. Who can I get one of these from?

Can I use a regular box wrench? If so--what size? Is the direction to turn the adjusting bushing trial and error or is there a certain direction to turn it for + or -?

Also how much should the nut on the ball joint stud be loosened?

Last--am I crazy to try to do this. (I already knos Larry Jowdy's answer to this one!)---Thanks for some help here.---Jack

Jack, it takes a 36mm wrench. I use a cresent wrench on mine. Be aware, if you aren't already, you will need to adjust your toe in after setting camber, then you most likely need to check the camber again...ideally you will want to the get the camber on both sides set the same worst case.

I have needed to use the extended range adjusters on both my cars in order to get negative camber. How much negative? I don't want to go there, becomes a religious argument in very short order.... the more agressive you want to corner, the more negative camber you want according to some experts. At least one VW suspension site suggests you can't get too much negative camber with standard VW suspension even with extended aftermarket ecentrics.

Just loosen the nut until you see some air under it. If your front end in newly re-built, you're golden, otherwise you might find that the camber adjusting cone is frozen in place. I have a pair that I've never been able to separate. Some PB Blaster and a few sharp raps against one of the flats will help. Mark the original position in the spindle as a reference.

If all goes well, and you achieve the caster that you're hoping for, and the front end performs well, please let me know how far (in inches) you rotated the adjuster from it's factory setting, and in what direction it was rotated. I could use the info and would like to try something to tighten things up on the turns.

Thanks,


Forum Prick

Jack, I gotta go with the "am I crazy to do this part".
1. If it ain't broke....
2. If you feel you need alignment adjustments... do it right and get a computerized alignment. Did wonders for mine....and they even let me help(watch)!

~WB

And new after-market camber "nuts" are readily available that can slightly increase the range over that of stock camber "nuts". The hole is slightly more off- center in these nuts, which increases the camber range. Helpful in case you you can not achieve factory specs, or if you desire a special setup.

A timely thread, indeed...

I couldn't get my left front to give me the camber I wanted - it was close, just couldn't go far enough with the stock adjuster. (I use a Crescent wrench on mine, too.)

Then, just yesterday, I discovered the "extended range" adjuster on Cip1 and ordered a pair. There's light at the end of the tunnel!!

Jack: I align mine on a Bear alignment rack. One of my car club buddies has an autobody shop with a two-year-old Bear machine and only charges us $50 to use it. Catch him on a day when he doesn't need it and you can play to your hearts content. It's all computerized so if you know basic suspension geometry it's a breeze to use.

The Cobra guys in our club bought (I think) a "Magic String" alignment system that apparently does a great job, too. Real low tech, but it works (we used Carey's at Carlisle a couple of years in a row.)

gn

Take a look at this:
http://www.bushmaster.ca/assets/pdf%20files/15%20Tools.pdf

It's item 5894

That's what the Camber adjustment wrench for VW Ball joint beams looks like.

Greg

Gordon---which adjuster did you order---they have two styles.

Does the old one just screw off somehow?

If you use a crescent wrench how do you avoin damaging that rubber gizmo over---actually touching the adjuster?

Timely indeed.

Oh--my left wheel was 1 1/2 degrees positive and the right was 1 degree negative. It was supposed to have been aligned last fall--I'm sure the tech had no clue what he wa sdoing. Also the left wheel spec explains my excessive tire wear on one side of the tread.

Can you help me with my questiona above? Thanks-Jack

Jack,

Tell us more about the tool you got for measuring camber.

Jack, are you 100% certain the floor is level and the tool is giving you a good reading? Turn the car around and remeasure just to be sure. If you can get underneath without jacking up the car, put a spirit level on the front beam to check.

I use a large pair of waterpump pliers to turn the adjuster. I got the increased range adjusters from cip1 also. I had to use a gear/bearing puller to get the original on the driver's side out. The passenger side fell right out. Put some wheel bearing grease on the new ones before installation. You only can go about a half-turn of adjustment, IMHO. The eccentric bolt hole needs to be toward the rear of the car to maintain the proper amount of caster, or lean-back to the front suspension. Caster is what makes the steering wheel return to neutral after a turn. You Speedster guys can just add caster shims, beams are permanently welded in a Spyder, so it's more of a concern for us. I think a little more caster is not a bad thing in a lighter, faster car than this stuff was designed for.

I agree about the order of things. Set camber, then toe-in, then recheck camber.

On the issue of settings, I am running about 1 1/2 degrees neg. front and rear, and 1/16" toe-in front and rear. I will back off the front a little, she can be a little twitchy sometimes. I think for a street car driven normally, zero camber to -1/2 degree is probably fine. But like Jim said, too much is never enough if you really cank it!

Here's a photo of the camber guage I got. It is simple to work and there is a compensation for a floor that's not level. I believe it was about $150. and I also got the optional toe adapter kit to go with it.

The website address should be readable but it's: www.spcperformance.com The company is Specialty Products Company.

I haven't actually done a camber adjustment yet but I did use it to see what my settings were to start. It is simple which for a guy like me is a huge plus!---Jack

I still wonder if it is possible to use a digital level to check camber.

Might be easier to get one of these:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1206

BTW: EVERYONE in the garages at the Rolex race had a "Smart String" alignment system to set up their cars. We saw them do complete, four-wheel alignments - including camber front and rear - with two people working on it and be done in 30 - 45 minutes (often less). That's the same system that they use on Becks, too.

We've got a Smart String system in the local club (the Cobra guys bought one) and they're often messing with it for different track requirements.

OK--I found the tool and where to buy it. It's a VW special tool , VW179 and is available from:

http://www.zdmakautotools.com/wbstore/main.asp?
action=PROD&PROD=P179&CTMP=1

It's $42.50 plus $9.00 shipping.

A guy has one in classifieds on The Samba, not as large and without the grip for $60.00. I offered him $30 and he refused that so I'l ahead by 20 bucks.

The number for ZDMAK Tools is 877/938-6657

Maybe others here are familiar with this company but I haven't come accross them before now. They have a L-O-T of stuff!

I hope this helps someone here.---Jack

ps: That web address includes the line which is below the http:// line

--Jack

Jack, I've always just used a large Crescent wrench or a pair of channel locks.

Dammit, Larry--NOW you tell me!---Jack

Yeah, but now you'll be the ONLY guy who has one!

Gordon--I know you're just jealous :)---Jack