Convertable top

I am adding a center latch to my Vintage Speedster' bow and see that I'll have to counter sink the screw head at the top of the bow.

I'm hoping this will help seal that windshield---will report back later.

Does anyone know the best way, or what tool I should use to countersink that bad boy?---Thanks!---Jack

Jack -

I no expert on this (or anything for that matter) by any stretch of one's imagination, but be sure that you whatever you screw into that windshield frame doesn't come into contact with the windshield glass.

Jack:

I did mine when I was down in Beaufort, so I had a limited supply of tools (most of my more exotic stuff is in New England) but I notched the header by hand with a Dremel tool, using a small rasp and one of those bits for removing tile grout (it's kind-of like a "Roto-Zip" saw).

Don't go nuts with the rotational speed and it should work out just fine. Just make the latch position the same depth and shape as the other two. The header is made of Fiberglass (mostly resin with a few glass strands here and there, if mine is any example) so it works relatively easy. Wear a mask when cutting/milling.

I then used some stainless, countersunk-head machine screws through the header (screw head on the outer/fabric side) and then, once the latch was firmly attached I skimmed the heads with epoxy to make a smooth surface that wouldn't show in the fabric (go take a look at my convertible top article)

gn

Jim and Gordon---thanks for the advice! Gordon--yes--I printed out your article and that's what gave me the idea for a center latch.

Jim the latch I just rec'd from Kirk at Vintage goes beautifully under the top metal of the windshield without touching the glass. More, it eliminates the need to pull out the metal where the clip grabs---lucky for me!

Gordon---I'll try to find that grout tool---never heard of that though---any "plan b"? Something readily available at Lowes?---Jack

Jack, I'd love to see a picture of your center latch once it's installed. I might consider adding something like that myself.

Jack:
Lowe's or Home Depot or any place that sells Dremel bits.

Just ask for the grout removal bit.

Jack, me too on the pic of your install, as I have considered this mod ever since I first installed the top. There should have been a third latch provided from the factory to keep the center of the bow down tight.

Jack,
Before you do that you might want to try installing the OEM speedster top seal.
It fits right in to the front bow and forms a really good seal.
Well worth the $18.00 and no worries about invasive surgery on the windshield.

https://klasse356.secure.gearhost.com//catalog/ShowItems.asp?Category=TOA

Oh Terry---I have that seal in the car right now and used it for the Carlisle trip. We had all kinds of hard rain on the way out of Carlisle that Sunday and it leaked too much for me.

Fitst, it seemed to take up too much space in the bow---that made it very hard to latch---in fact I ran the latch adjustment so far out that I was afraid it would come apart. I just got another piece of rummer that was highly recommended on this site--Eastwood had it --it's a nice "d" shaped deal that appears to be a really perfect size for the job; we'll see. It's half again as big as the original piece from Vintage. It measures 1/2" for the flat part and 5/16 high. I'm excited about trying it.

Gordon, would a good way to get the head of the screw counter sunk be to first make the hole for the screw then to use a drill bit as large as the screw head to make a wider hole as deep as the thickness of the screw head---or a tad deeper? ---Jack

"Gordon, would a good way to get the head of the screw counter sunk be to first make the hole for the screw then to use a drill bit as large as the screw head to make a wider hole as deep as the thickness of the screw head---or a tad deeper? "

By George, I think you've got it!

Go a tad deeper, then fill in the depression of the screw head with epoxy to make it smooth again for the top material.

gn

Why not use a flat head screw and a regular countersink think for your drill?

Michael--since I alreagy have the two sizes of drills I'll try that.

If anyone downloaded the cmc build manual from this site you would see that they actually show a center latch---I wonder why Vintage doesn't put one on?

I just feel a center latch would snug the bow down.

I'd be happy to post pictures if I could figure out howdo do it.

I'm ok clicking on "photos"m above but can't get past the place where you put in a file name (or something) for the photo you want to load----any help would be appreciated.

Dang--I think I just hijacked my own thread---Jack

I don't remember what the CMC manual shows.

But, my CMC header only has two notches and only two latches were supplied.

If you use the counter sink thing you only need one size drill.

Michael---about the center latch on the CMCs---click on "Library" at the top of a page and select "CMC Build Manual, 1989" and look at page 93. You will see the center latch.

I wonder how many latches IM & Beck put on?--Jack

Becks have two. I don't know about IMs.

Thanks Lane. Is your top water tight? Regards my friend---Jack

It wasn't on the drive from Carlisle Sunday morning. The top was so soaked that the weight of the water and the pressure of the wind against the top caused it to pull up a bit in the center of the top bow. All it take is a little gap, and a lot of water can come in there. I have since beefed up the weather stripping there, but I haven't driven it in the rain since, so I don't know if it's fixed or not.