If you need the heater boxes quick, JC Whipme is a dansk dealer and sells 411 heater boxes-- they'll set you back roughly $350 though. I'm running a set on my engine.
Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
I just got a better idea..
All I need is old stock muffler,
I dont care if it leaks or has a hole . I just need a exchanger flange refferance
That way I can save Jake the trouble of sending me a set of exchangers. I can still make the second prototype and send it to him. I have also did some more tweeking in the drawings to try to hide the body of the muffler better I did some more measuring I have 2x1/2 inches a bove it to spare I dont want it show .
I need a favor of anyone with a type one in a beetle .
Please check if the horizonal center line of the rear apron is the lowest point or the same as the rear cab apron I need to be sure this will fit a bug as well if I use the revised verson it may not clear the inner body .
I need to be sure I standardize this to fit ALL. I am not giving up untill it fits all and meets Jake requirements of flow. up to a 2400cc. (no veins)
I can make a 2400cc muffler and the veins can be added for stock engines and I have a idea of how they can become bolt-ons.
You can be add or remove if you change engines but you will need a cover plate each, when they are not used
The veins can be inserted in a slot cut in the bottom of the MUFFLER case. I am going to ramble in my t-4 gasket spares to fine 2 exhaust gaskets with 1inch or so holes. to make the vein caps and the plain caps by. I still think I may have to little back pressure in my present muffler .
I need to know just how it would affect idle and how it would act if the back pressure is to low. The engine lopes at idle. I have checked wires and plugs again , their is no dwell bounce. and I am still looking for intake leaks .
It sounds just like a t-1 intake leak. But where? I am going to rig a small hose on the ether can so i can get in all the tight places and even the transmisson vac line is a suspect. I will check and recheck
But first I need to rest so I will have a clear mind the weekend I am not doing to take any unneccary risk with my engine
All I need is old stock muffler,
I dont care if it leaks or has a hole . I just need a exchanger flange refferance
That way I can save Jake the trouble of sending me a set of exchangers. I can still make the second prototype and send it to him. I have also did some more tweeking in the drawings to try to hide the body of the muffler better I did some more measuring I have 2x1/2 inches a bove it to spare I dont want it show .
I need a favor of anyone with a type one in a beetle .
Please check if the horizonal center line of the rear apron is the lowest point or the same as the rear cab apron I need to be sure this will fit a bug as well if I use the revised verson it may not clear the inner body .
I need to be sure I standardize this to fit ALL. I am not giving up untill it fits all and meets Jake requirements of flow. up to a 2400cc. (no veins)
I can make a 2400cc muffler and the veins can be added for stock engines and I have a idea of how they can become bolt-ons.
You can be add or remove if you change engines but you will need a cover plate each, when they are not used
The veins can be inserted in a slot cut in the bottom of the MUFFLER case. I am going to ramble in my t-4 gasket spares to fine 2 exhaust gaskets with 1inch or so holes. to make the vein caps and the plain caps by. I still think I may have to little back pressure in my present muffler .
I need to know just how it would affect idle and how it would act if the back pressure is to low. The engine lopes at idle. I have checked wires and plugs again , their is no dwell bounce. and I am still looking for intake leaks .
It sounds just like a t-1 intake leak. But where? I am going to rig a small hose on the ether can so i can get in all the tight places and even the transmisson vac line is a suspect. I will check and recheck
But first I need to rest so I will have a clear mind the weekend I am not doing to take any unneccary risk with my engine
Charles. If you could spare them for a while it would help Jake to cut cost,and get this together quicker. I don't know if your done with your T-3 but If I can get this together in the next few weeks your welcome to try the prototype to see if you like it when, Jake is done passing or failing it. I will sound different than mine
This will be his call.
If it does fail the first, second or even third try.I can still reduce the first chamber exit port,now 3".
It could be reduced to 2", or even 1x3/4. I am still not going to give up. This is sorely needed by everyone.
If at the time he gets the muffler and you still have time to spare, That would be your call.
This will be his call.
If it does fail the first, second or even third try.I can still reduce the first chamber exit port,now 3".
It could be reduced to 2", or even 1x3/4. I am still not going to give up. This is sorely needed by everyone.
If at the time he gets the muffler and you still have time to spare, That would be your call.
Barry keep us in the loop as to what happens. I hope your Idea as well as your hard work pay off for everyone.
It really needs to . As George has pointed out on more than one ocassion.
You figure $250.oo each for a pair of shorted exchangers and $550.oo or so for a matching muffler it soon puts in the poor house not counting the shipping from most likely Germany.
The materials list for this muffler were $60.00, figure at least $120.oo of your labor to make it. If you send it to a welding shop, more for sure But if you can keep it simple.
That would help offset the cost of a new set of stock or even stainless exchangers and you only have to make. One part . not remake it all. But if Jake takes it up and is pleased with it. Well that solves everyones problem.
Hopefuly he can keep 4 or 5 in stock and have someone local make them as needed. I may be wrong I dont know great the demand would be.
Oh and so far my home built D that I converted from a new unassembled VS, that I know every nut, bolt and screw ,personally with the exception of the inside of the engine that I was told by Jake should be fine and so far I feel it.is,, COST about $21,000. almost half Of a excellent IM and I agree the IM is worth it But I Just can,t afford one.
You figure $250.oo each for a pair of shorted exchangers and $550.oo or so for a matching muffler it soon puts in the poor house not counting the shipping from most likely Germany.
The materials list for this muffler were $60.00, figure at least $120.oo of your labor to make it. If you send it to a welding shop, more for sure But if you can keep it simple.
That would help offset the cost of a new set of stock or even stainless exchangers and you only have to make. One part . not remake it all. But if Jake takes it up and is pleased with it. Well that solves everyones problem.
Hopefuly he can keep 4 or 5 in stock and have someone local make them as needed. I may be wrong I dont know great the demand would be.
Oh and so far my home built D that I converted from a new unassembled VS, that I know every nut, bolt and screw ,personally with the exception of the inside of the engine that I was told by Jake should be fine and so far I feel it.is,, COST about $21,000. almost half Of a excellent IM and I agree the IM is worth it But I Just can,t afford one.
I took a couple of pictures of the muffler after I installed it
Check it out ,and tell how bad it looks under the car.
I am concidering the 356 B rear valance. To me it looks worse when you step back 15 feet.
At least its not spagettie.
I have tried to get a sound bite ,but it did not sound right.
I need a new toy.
Check it out ,and tell how bad it looks under the car.
I am concidering the 356 B rear valance. To me it looks worse when you step back 15 feet.
At least its not spagettie.
I have tried to get a sound bite ,but it did not sound right.
I need a new toy.
I could use some advise. Would you take a change in a good sound for a cleaner look?
I am debating making a trim a the rear muffler corners to help it hide better.
That would start 6" from each end and tuck them back 2 " at the ends
I am debating making a trim a the rear muffler corners to help it hide better.
That would start 6" from each end and tuck them back 2 " at the ends
Barry, where did you put the pictures, they're not on the Oldyeler file site. The 3 pictures there have an x thru them, and don't open
Gclarke
Gclarke
They are all at my web space http;//home.earthlink.net/~oldyelerbh2
I am debating a muffler change or just adding the 356B type rear valance like some of the 59s had.
Ijust don.t know which I should do. I never liked that valance it hurts the cars body lines.
I am debating a muffler change or just adding the 356B type rear valance like some of the 59s had.
Ijust don.t know which I should do. I never liked that valance it hurts the cars body lines.
I'm a rookie at this, but try pulling your idle jets and cleaning them. Sounds like plugged idle jets.
Also, check all the obvious things, loose spark plug wires, etc.
Also, check all the obvious things, loose spark plug wires, etc.
It does not look good. I can not get 1&2 cylinders to register on the sycronizer I have checked the intake with ether from all angles. I have fire to plugs and fuel and valve train is queit enough and I checked them twice .oo6 clean through
I have tried completely closing the air set screws on 1&2 and have the fuel screw at 2x1/2 like 3&4. Fuel adjustments work on 3&4 and will dial in Can't get anything to go on 1&2 The engine will smooth out at half throttle, but it just wont idle I can cover the bells on 1&2 and it wont even stall at idle ,like a bad vacum leak. or cracked head.Is their something on the carb I can check,did I get a mismatched set of carbs or should I now check compression This is supose to be a new build.
It Just goes to prove If you want somthing done right you should do it yourself . So much for John Helgerson
It appears I may have to start over. There could even be somthing wrong with that head. or the cam is wiping out but the valve train has not chanced
I will pull the jets and check , but wouldn't it have smoothed out when I shot ether the down the intakes of 1&2
I have tried completely closing the air set screws on 1&2 and have the fuel screw at 2x1/2 like 3&4. Fuel adjustments work on 3&4 and will dial in Can't get anything to go on 1&2 The engine will smooth out at half throttle, but it just wont idle I can cover the bells on 1&2 and it wont even stall at idle ,like a bad vacum leak. or cracked head.Is their something on the carb I can check,did I get a mismatched set of carbs or should I now check compression This is supose to be a new build.
It Just goes to prove If you want somthing done right you should do it yourself . So much for John Helgerson
It appears I may have to start over. There could even be somthing wrong with that head. or the cam is wiping out but the valve train has not chanced
I will pull the jets and check , but wouldn't it have smoothed out when I shot ether the down the intakes of 1&2