reduction drive starters

C.B. Performance offers them I wounder,do any of have one installed,and are you pleased.
I been figureing up my accessery voltage demands and think it might be wise to upgrade they run just under$200.oo and would hopefully help a bunch on a cold morning.

OK! lets hear it.

Barry/all,
just my opinion but i see that as overkill[read:waste of money].
A long time ago they used to sell a rope pull start adapter for vws,
i'm not saying it was smart just showing the total opposite side.

Barry
I've started easily in high 30s weather - 1-2 seconds of cranking. Colder than that I use my truck.
ed

Barry:
IMHO you would be much better off installing a relay kit close to the starter solenoid. The wire and connections from the starter switch to the solenoid get pretty old and resistance increases over time so that the solenoid doesn't get a lot of juice applied to it, the connection at the starter is therefore poor, and it starts hard. They are sold by Tweeks and Rocky Mountain Motor Works, among others. They come with easy instructions and can be installed in less than an hour.

Oh yeah, it doesn't hurt to have your starter rebuilt, too, but through a long time and a LOT of dunebuggies, I've never seen the need for a high-torque starter.

Gordon

My IM had what I call a 'lazy start', until I installed an Aurora CD box/coil combo and a Mallory distributor. Man, does it start fast now...even at near freezing temperatures.
Ron

An inexpensive fix is to use a "auto stick" VW beetle starter bolts right in and it has it's own nose cone thus you don't have to mess with the shaft bushing ....the only I go is the AS starter

Yeah, I got a reduction drive starter - in sunny San Diego yet! I'm running a 2367 cc type 4, with dual Webers (no chokes) and mild compression (about 8.5 or so). I figure this starter will never wear out. The car just sat for over two months and I fired it up last wekend. It was just like my fuel injected truck, just kiss the throttle and it's running.
I wonder if these starters would also be beneficial if you had got stuck out somewhere with a really marginal battery. Would they draw more juice, the same juice or less juice to get you started? Any double Es in the crowd?

Im running the T-3 fully Automatic its the same as the autostick starter.
I put a buzzer on the head light switch triggered by ignition off, because as a bug I was forever catching my self in a rush and leaveing the lights on, on a foggy morning.but if the buzzer were to fail, and this being a automatic . I,d be stuck . I am usally the last one to leave.
The reduction drive starters take a lot less power to kick over. I have one on my SS elcamino. and it,s been a real trooper. I just wanted to be sure the Vw counterpart was as good. so cable jumping would be easier.

Thank You, Mr Klepfel!That answered my Question

I too had a "lazy start"! I tried everything and finally a geared-reduction IMI unit solved the problem. My 9.5 compression ratio 2110-cc now turns and starts effortlessly too!I do not recall the figure, nut when I took an amp draw reading, the starter required about 30% less amperes. I love it, now I have to solve my merged header dilemna! Anyone know where I can get a side-pointing merged 1-5/8" header? Any inputs are appreciated!

David Dowling reminded me of a post at Pelican Parts, some advice on the voltage draw at the starte, and adding a relay.
I did not add a hot start relay due to the electicial upgrades I made in wire gauge and he said you need at least 9 volts at the solenoid on the starter from the key switch, I checked it late yesterday with some help. I have 10.8 volts. I was concerned because this car has a park neutrial safty switch. and was guessing it was a weak link in the voltage circut.
NOPE! that was no the case. I had worked on the distributor earlier last week and had bumped it a schose the wrong way I have sence reset it and tightened it down. but, I am still gonna upgrade the starter. It will just be betterin the long haul.