today, 11 months after we purchased our VS and I started building a motor, it started and ran and I put 20 miles on our speedster and it was amazing!
No leaks anywhere, no backfiring, no stalling, just pure bliss!
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I'm happy for you, Will! Time to break in that SEG!
Great, Will!
It IS possible.
Twenty miles? Time for the first round of upgrades!
Sounds great, Will!
Good for you! It's been a long haul, but hopefully, worth it all. 
More pics please!
Definitely more pics!
Congrats! I love the motor you built!
Great !
Randall, the mechanic who helped me with the last bits of wiring, carb adjustment and timing, came walking out with a Vanagan bumper upturned across his mouth when I pulled back into the lot. He hollered, is your smile THIS big?
It was.
Will wrote: "No leaks anywhere, no backfiring, no stalling"
You sure you're driving a "Speedster", Will? 
Nate, the shop manager, came back as we were running-in the cam and lifters. He had a look on his face that I haven't seen before, kind of worried-like. I asked him what was wrong and he at first said: "Nothing."
I asked again if it sounded weird and he said: "It's got a high whine, can you hear it?" I could and asked if I should worry about it.
Then he asked: "Do you have a straight-cut cam gear in that thing?" Yes, I replied. He said: "I love the sound of those things, I knew it sounded different."
Never underestimate a desk-jockey, they often get there by being extraordinarily good as a mechanic, lesson learned!
WHITE CLOUD Lives!!!
Robert, she lives and breathes, and boy, does she breathe!
Will, could you refresh us on the details of what you built?
That's great news, Will! Now get out there and drive it like you stole it! 
Congrats Will, nothing better than the first drive.. except the 2nd and 3rd, hell they are all awesome! Definitely more pics please.
It's a 2110 with 44 Webers, Scat cam, counterweighted crank, 40x37 valves, 1:25 lifters built to replicate a T1 engine with oil canister, 019 distributor, generator, 12v big black voltage regulator, Flat Four air cleaners, stuff I wanted.
I'll post some pictures of the engine when I get her home today. Left her overnight at the shop as they didn't have the "H"-rubber seal between the perimeter engine tin and body, supposed to be here by noon...I'm hoping!
I purchased 6 quarts of Motul high-zinc break-in oil (10w40) and asked my mechanic, before we started the engine to wear-in the cam/lifters how much he thought I should put in. He said 4 quarts. I thought that was light but complied.
After 20 minutes of 2,000 rpm, I shut it off and checked the oil, 1/8" on the bottom of dipstick. Added a quart, then at one quart low mark, added number 6 and it's right on the full line. Ha, should've listened to myself (for once!).
trippy oil though, absolutely clear, not amber but crystal clear...
Will, you should know me by now- what Scat cam? compression?
Great to hear Will! A long road well traveled. See ya on the road soon!!
Al, it's a C35 cam, straight-cut gears pushing Scat Lube-a-lobe lifters. It's a low compression engine: 8:1built for low-end torque and reliability (hopefully).
Photos of the long-block build here: http://media44ys.onlineview.it...;mt=Photo&ci=008
Steve, are you going to cars and coffee in Paso tomorrow morning?
Here's a somewhat recent photo of the almost complete engine
At the last minute I decided not to use the real Porsche crankshaft pulley which I had machined to fit a sand-seal.
I wanted maximum cooling so I put an aluminum faux 356 pulley from ISP, it's pretty close to the real deal but stock VW size. Incidentally, I'm using a 356 generator pulley which is a bit smaller than the VW pulley and should spin the fan just a bit faster. My son turned down the slinger shaft, installed a stainless sleeve to fit the sand seal, then I bead-blasted it and painted it flat silver. I'll post some photos of the actual engine when she's parked here at home this evening.
Will, which carb linkage is that? Vintage Speed's?
How did you like its ease of set-up and adjustment?
Looks like you're hooking up heater hoses and that the linkage will clear them.
Mitch, that is the Vintage Speed linkage. It was relatively easy to install and the adjustment is great, it has a slip-connection which allows the outer ball-joints to move with the expansion of a warm motor.
Notice I didn't say HOT motor, we don't allow those kind around this house!
The upright center column of the linkage has roller bearings top and bottom and there's an allen-head bolt (stainless, like everything on these products) which sets pre-load on the bearings. I had it snugged and it was catching (which we didn't realize until hooking up the accelerator pedal). I loosened the bolt and voila, fixed. I wanted the pre-load to stay exactly where it was so out came my best buddy: Locktite Red.
Heater hose (passsenger side) had to be massaged a bit to clear the linkage.
Will,
That is ridiculously, stupidly, unbelievably cool. Wow.
Stan, that's funny. The first two words in your compliment are usually reserved for the opposite intention.
It is cool to have a running car, as Mitch stated above: It is possible!
Will if there are no leaks it may be out of oil!
Rusty, it's only got 20 miles on it, sooner or later it probably will, but right now (knock on wood) it's dry as a member of the WCTU...
Nice.
Will Hesch posted:Al, it's a C35 cam, straight-cut gears pushing Scat Lube-a-lobe lifters. It's a low compression engine: 8:1built for low-end torque and reliability (hopefully).
Photos of the long-block build here: http://media44ys.onlineview.it...;mt=Photo&ci=008
Steve, are you going to cars and coffee in Paso tomorrow morning?
Did you do a full build, long block, or short with Powerhaus?
You have the exact 2110cc I want to build.
Beautiful engine!!!
long block, the photos document what was used in my engine. I made a mistake posting the valve sizes, it's 40x35 not 40x37.
PM me and I can fill you in on the cost, etc. Great guys to work with!
If you have a added sump, oil filter, and external oil cooler it's best to keep your oil level slightly below the full line on your dip stick. I usually ran mine half way between the high and low marks.
Ron O posted:If you have a added sump, oil filter, and external oil cooler it's best to keep your oil level slightly below the full line on your dip stick. I usually ran mine half way between the high and low marks.
I've heard this before. What's the reason behind this?
With the oil level a half quart or so lower (and not quite so close to the cam), the extra rpm's we wind these things don't seem to whip up the oil quite so much; breathing problems with the resulting mist wanting to leave the engine is easier to contain. I think this little bit of extra space makes it easier for the engine to pump the air around inside the crankase.
And on top of what Al said, when I top mine off at the "full" mark, it seems to pretty quickly end up at about half full and stay there for a looooong time. If I top it off again, it quickly re-settles at half. Took me a while to attain peaceful coexistence with it, but now I just leave it alone at half full because I know it's just going to froth and get blown out anyway.
^^^What Gordon said.^^^ He 'splanes things better 'n me.
Gordon Nichols posted:And on top of what Al said, when I top mine off at the "full" mark, it seems to pretty quickly end up at about half full and stay there for a looooong time. If I top it off again, it quickly re-settles at half. Took me a while to attain peaceful coexistence with it, but now I just leave it alone at half full because I know it's just going to froth and get blown out anyway.
I've noticed the same thing. So I'm normal! I AM NORMAL!!
Will Hesch posted:Here's a somewhat recent photo of the almost complete engine
This is a beautiful engine by the way. If it were mine I would find it irresistible to put those Porsche valve covers that Vintage Motor Cars make.
Rusty S posted:I've noticed the same thing. So I'm normal! I AM NORMAL!!This is a beautiful engine by the way. If it were mine I would find it irresistible to put those Porsche valve covers that Vintage Motor Cars make.
Not necessarily, Rusty, but nice try....
Your car is nice enough without trying to look like you fit in with the P crowd. Those valve covers would just make you look like a poser.
How did Yoda get back so soon? .
