Will Hesch posted:Here's a somewhat recent photo of the almost complete engine
I keep drooling over this photo... it is ruining my keyboard...
That "oil line" running from the "filter" to the air cleaner is going to drive some Porsche "Purists" nuts. Of course, most of them won't ever notice it....
I love it!
I love that engine too. A beautiful tribute to what the Speedster had under the deck lid. But much, much more thrilling under the right foot. And all for something like 1/10th of the price of the original magnesium. That's what it's all about.
Gordon, wait till they see the one on the other air cleaner!
Here are some photos of the engine as it is now. I drove 76km today and loved every single moment. It loves to run at 3,000, shift at 4,000 and doesn't mind too much to pull as low as 2,500.
The 4" ram-air supply, sealed engine compartment and a wonderful Setrab cooler kept the temp in the low 1\4 of the gauge (it averaged 85 degrees today), the fan didn't come on once today (it did several times Tuesday).
I had several comments today on the car, a couple thumbs-up and countless smiles, it's like riding my Vespa, only with 4 wheels.
home at last
may not need the breathers, so far not a drop of oil in the canister
The early 356 oil filler has a 1" breather vent which may be enough
ram air directly in front of fan intake, Hungarian Bosch regulator mounted on the aluminum firewall which was coated with Armadillo, a type of Rhino-lining.
Note the cool fuel rail and the gauge tucked between the fan shroud and air cleaner. The Amazon fuel pump (same one CB sells for twice the cost) puts out 3 1/4 lbs, perfect for Webers
drivers side fuel rail feeding the carb and dropping to the braided stainless supply line from the electric fuel pump mounted low in the bulkhead over the transaxle
Part of the sealing details I did at the rear of the engine compartment. VS left 2" between the body and the engine tin and a 10 square inch opening at both sides of the car. I cut aluminum and used rubber bulb weatherstripping against the body.
I spent a couple days in the engine compartment cutting templates and fitting and installing these 3 pieces (two of which were coped around the taillight canisters). It was pretty cramped for a 6' 2" x 64 year old guy!
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Nice attention to detail, Will.
It would be really cool if you could find a pair of original or repro 356 engine cover hinges - they have a ratcheting device in them that eliminates that little (replica-only) pin stuck through the hinge to keep the cover up. The original hood hinges worked the same way - pull it up and it latches in place. Pull it a little higher and the latch lets go so you can close the cover/hood.
I love the idea of using the old filter mounted to the fan shroud as a breather box. It is so clean looking versus huge rubber hoses going every which way in the engine bay...
TRP - Can I have the old filter housing back??? jkjkjk
Gordon, those are available, have you priced them? Both of our originals had those and I remember being nailed a few times as I'd raise my head unlatching the hinges! My son's been talking about gas strut/s for the lid, it would be nice. If you have a pair of originals you want to donate to the Recently Underfunded, I'm all palms-up!
Longfella, good luck on that one! I found mine on the Samba (where else) for $80 but haven't seen them recently for that...
...just noticed I put the canister cover on crooked when I last showed someone the inside...I'm not a professional, just an enthusiastic rookie!
Very innovative, Will. Do you have some foam or something inside for the oil mist to condense on? The only comment I have is that breather lines are usually larger so the slower airspeed will let bigger droplets fall out of suspension before ending up in the breather, so it will be interesting to see if any oil ends up in the carbs...
Al, I've only driven the car a little over 100km (VS uses km speedos instead of mph) and so far the canister is spotless. I'm thinking the 1" 356 filler/breather tube is doing all the work, time will tell. I'll check the air cleaners this morning.
There is no foam in the canister.
Yeah, a 1" breather tube is pretty beefy. I started with 3/8" hoses from my breather to the air cleaners, then upgraded to 1/2" and finally to a pair of 5/8" ID hoses. It seems to like those best.
Oh, and I almost forgot the coolest part of the build. My restored thermostat and hardware is functioning perfectly, letting the engine warm-up quicker on start-up and opening when it's warmed-up to allow cooling air where it's needed. It will be nice this winter (yes, we get into the low 20's here in Cali).
Glad to hear it's running well and the thermostat is working properly! For it to be an effective breather, Will, there has to be baffles, or a piece of foam (doesn't have to fill the canister), or something for the oil mist to condense on. A 1" thick layer on the bottom will do. Then it can pool and drain back into the engine instead of being sucked into the left hand air cleaner.
Al, why does the foam cause the oil mist to condense instead of traveling through the lines to the air filters?
Will Hesch posted:Al, why does the foam cause the oil mist to condense instead of traveling through the lines to the air filters?
Gases passing through a membrane tend to drop particulates out of suspension. In a refrigeration system, it's called an impingement oil separator. In that application, gaseous refrigerant is driven though a filter medium to cause the oil to be separated from the refrigerant and returned to the compressors.
The oil droplets in suspension are more dense than the filter media. Just slowing the gas down is often enough to drop particulates out of suspension.
^^^ What Stan said^^^
It's the same as gas passing through your underwear (membrane) and particulates sticking to the fabric.
Gaseous intestinal air is driven though a filter medium (your underwear) to cause the particulates to be separated from the intestinal air and stick to the fabric of your underwear.
Rusty, Stan's illustration was sufficient...
Someone pass Rusty a lit match.
I have to say that the filter acting as a vent is AWESOME !
Do the words TMI that my kids use all the time ring a bell... baaaaaa.
Direct from the CDC and att: Rusty.... If you have particulates sticking to the fabric..you have coughed way too hard.
So Will, depending on which impingement oil separator you use, you might have to change the decal to this:
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Mitch- didn't get the pic...
Sacto Mitch posted:
So Will, depending on which impingement oil separator you use, you might have to change the decal to this:
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I love looking at these pictures. I get ideas from you creative guys! It looks great Will. A long way from what you picked up last year. I tired to get the same effect as you but didn't think of using the old Fram filter as a breather. Really nice.
Not sure how close this is but look here....
IaM-Ray posted:Not sure how close this is but look here....
Nice, could be made to work...
IaM-Ray posted:Not sure how close this is but look here....
Ray;
Thanks for the link. I sent off for the dimensions. Color is great
Art
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:Just slowing the gas down is often enough to drop particulates out of suspension.
This is why larger diameter breather lines are preferred; instead of a small line that the air/mist moves through quickly, a bigger line adds volume to the interior of the engine case. The air slows down and oil mist starts condensing on the hose wall even before it gets to the breather.
...well...I re-installed the paper filter in the canister, that should slow things down...
Will, your motor is beautiful! So glad you finally got her done and driving that VS has to be a pleasure...
Fabricate a replica bracket to look OEM and that's a close match .... Resto'd P canisters run close to $400 on eBay ( last one I bought some time ago was $140)