1.4 rocker kits

Due to my inexperience with vw motors. When you install 1.4 ratio rockers. Do you need to change the push rod length from the stock one. or will stock length work. i will switch to crmoly.

Is it the exp. in this group that when vintage puts in a 94.5 bore 1915. is it normal for them leave in the stock brazil 1600 cam? My motor pulls like a very weak 1600, and has been a bear to jet correctly. it's a real strugle to even get close to 4000 rpm. Kirk is a great guy, But i can't imagine him putting in such a weak 1915, even at the request of a reseller. Hell a bicycle can leave me at a light.

This car was a dealer resale. So i did not spec the motor. And lesson learned. do not buy from a resale dealer.

thanks in advance for any advise.

I guess they just take Mexican crate engines and bore them for the larger cylinders; everything else remains unchanged. I'm planning on installing the 1.25 VW rockers, sump, full flow, etc. when my warranty expires.

Jerry,

You need to pull the motor and start fresh.

Before doing anything with the pushrods you have to know what's in the engine already. You need WAY more info regarding;:

Heads-what manufacturer and what was done to them?
Valves-what manufacturer and what size(s)?
Valve springs-what type and how many?
Rocker arms-solid shaft? Roller type? After market ratio?
Cam-are you sure it's a stocker?
Push rods-stock length? Manufacturer?
Pistons/barrels-size, manufacturer, forged or cast?
Case-country of origin? Case savers? Stock or welded?
Oil pump-type and manufacturer?
Oiling system-stock? Full-flow? stock cooler?
Etc., Etc.

THEN you can decide on upgrades and what they should be.

1:4's are too big and need valve springs and custom cut pushrods and solid rocker shafts and . . .
1;25's will trick a stock cam with a higher lift (somewhat) but won't help with the duration. With the big barrels you need a longer duration to move the volume of air in and out and make use of what your carbs can deliver. Now you need to know valve sizes to determine if the rockers will help that much/if at all, and what to begin the jetting at.

At this point you would be much better off if you had a box of engine parts rather than a built engine. Put in a stocker for now or take the car off the road and pull the mill and break it down and start the build-up fresh! NOTHING else will work, really.

TC

Could be a number of reasons your motor is not pulling hard or quick.

Just because a motor is a 1915 only means that the pistons are bigger.
Even then, It should go a little better.

I would do a history check with Kirk and find out if he has a record of the motor per the eng. id.#

The Brazil or Mexican case is fine. The work done to it before it is built is important.

Full flow?
Dual Press Relief?
Case savers?
Welded behind #3?

Cam?
Compression?
Valve size?
Porting?
Carburation?
etc.........

If you have the ability, take the motor to someone to "re-seal" it. Which is basically tear it down, check the components and put it together is you find what you want. You know the motor runs, but maybe modify it a little. If the motor is not what it was advertised as, you can approach the reseller.

A new crate motor, would more than likely not have just the barrels/pistons replaced. It would be too costly. You would have to take the motor apart completely for machine work on the case and the heads.

Even a stock 1600cc in a Kitcar can move pretty well with proper tuning.

Maybe you are used to driving cars that have that ability already.

Good luck

Jerry,

You have other problems. Your engine should pull easily to 4000 and beyond. I'd check compression and valve adjustment. A compression guage is cheap, and a really good place to start. Look for the weak cylinder- I'll bet you have one.

The info about the motor came from the person that built it at vintage. I was have a conversation with a tech guy at low bugget. he asked what was in the motor.
according to vintage: brazilian case, mex 043-101-375h heads, copper head gaskets, 8:1 CR, stock cam, solex 40mm carbs 55 idles 130 mains.
the altitude in south dakota runs from 3200-6000 ft.

Jerry, doesn't your car have a warranty? Make it their problem.