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Today my friend Jjr and I decided to adjust his Manx dune buggy since it has been running sort of rough. First of all, the car is basically stored and doesn't get used much; it's a stock single port 1500 cc with a 34 PICT carb. It had been missing and overall running very roughly with some more smoke coming out of cylinders 1 & 2 as compared to 3 & 4. By tweaking the distributor timing we got it to respond quicker. We adjusted the valves and found most of them were overly tight. Something weird happened. After we adjusted all 8 valves we decided to go back and check them out before installing the valve covers with the new gaskets. We found most of them totally out of whack; some of them too tight, some too loose. We did this three times until we found all were more or less acceptable. After we finished doing that we set up the point gap as per the manual (the engine has an old Bosch 010 distributor...that's old school baby!). When we started it fired right up with a nice idle and no smoke coming from #1 & 2 (as it used to before the adjustment) but when we took it out for a drive, it lacks power. It FEELS like it's running on three cylinders but it's not acting like it is; in other words, it's not backfiring or acting weird; it just doesn't have the pep it used to. Jjr tells me that he found spark plug on Cyl #1 a little bit oily.

Could it be broken rings? Compression?

Lastly, how can we explain the valve adjustment thing? Engine was totally cold. Could it be screwed up valve guides or springs? Maybe loose rocker arm assemblies? We're totally clueless, maybe some of you have experienced this and can help solve this mystery.

Oh, and by the way, Happy Labor Day weekend!
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Today my friend Jjr and I decided to adjust his Manx dune buggy since it has been running sort of rough. First of all, the car is basically stored and doesn't get used much; it's a stock single port 1500 cc with a 34 PICT carb. It had been missing and overall running very roughly with some more smoke coming out of cylinders 1 & 2 as compared to 3 & 4. By tweaking the distributor timing we got it to respond quicker. We adjusted the valves and found most of them were overly tight. Something weird happened. After we adjusted all 8 valves we decided to go back and check them out before installing the valve covers with the new gaskets. We found most of them totally out of whack; some of them too tight, some too loose. We did this three times until we found all were more or less acceptable. After we finished doing that we set up the point gap as per the manual (the engine has an old Bosch 010 distributor...that's old school baby!). When we started it fired right up with a nice idle and no smoke coming from #1 & 2 (as it used to before the adjustment) but when we took it out for a drive, it lacks power. It FEELS like it's running on three cylinders but it's not acting like it is; in other words, it's not backfiring or acting weird; it just doesn't have the pep it used to. Jjr tells me that he found spark plug on Cyl #1 a little bit oily.

Could it be broken rings? Compression?

Lastly, how can we explain the valve adjustment thing? Engine was totally cold. Could it be screwed up valve guides or springs? Maybe loose rocker arm assemblies? We're totally clueless, maybe some of you have experienced this and can help solve this mystery.

Oh, and by the way, Happy Labor Day weekend!
Old gas? Try new and add jug of carb/FI cleaner like Chevron Techron. Last time my valves jumped out of adjustment like that - a valve separated (broke off!) from the valve stem several months later (taking out the piston and the head!) Do a compression check - the head bolts tend to pull out of the block if case savers were never installed. That could be the case if multiple ones were out of wack. Did you time it with a timing light or by ear - timing may be off dispite fact that it starts ok.
The old gas was taken out of the tank and it was filled with fresh fuel. Also, a fuel preservative was added. With respect to timing it was set up weeks earlier on basically by ear and throttle response and it improved a whole lot. We tried to use the Craftsman timing light yesterday but Jjr had dropped it before and it was dead. He was going to investigate the possibility of getting it repaired at Sears. What would the timing be on that particular engine? The Bentley manual gives figures for static timing but not for the timing light.
First of all, thanks to all for the suggestions, lots of things to
think about. Before all of that Ricardo, the timing light is working
fine, just tested it on the speedster, so im not "the man who dropped
the ball". Will get to the timing on the next weekend break thanks friends. Dont know why the timing light did not work yesterday but...
I will replace the rotor cap, cables, plugs, the cheap rotor and maybe the points. I belive that this may be an electrical problem... will see. - jJ
Update; Jjr and I changed the spark plug wires with a premium Bosch set and spark plugs with Bosch Platinum; set the timing up with the light and now it's running perfectly.....I couldn't have imagined that was the problem; the spark plugs were a little fouled but almost new (the car isn't used much) as well as the Bosch spark plug wires; maybe the wires got damaged by humidity by not being used; I don't know....these engines are a mystery aren't they?
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