1915cc VW oil sump plate leaks

You don't need any sealer if all surfaces are smooth, when tightening down the plate sealer can squeeze out and get into the engine , not a good thing. Your friend installed a used plate that probably wasn't perfectly straight. If you have nuts instead of the acorn cap nuts and copper washers, it will leak.

Purchase a new plate, screen and oil change kit. Be sure the case to plate mating surface is very clean then replace the used ( gasket-screen - gasket then the plate ) with new parts.

The way I tighten the easy to strip acorn nuts: snug them using a criss cross pattern then with my pinky finger on a 1/4 ratchet alternate 1/8" turn on each acorn nut until snug. Drive it a bit and lightly snug them up again.

And by lightly, Alan means LIGHTLY!

I used the acorn cap nuts, and tightened them to 5 foot pounds per VW specs.  I will get a new plate (aluminum instead of steel).  Is there any specific strainer screen, or are they all pretty much the same?  Also what do you think of the Fel-Pro OS (rubberized)  gasket, instead of the paper gaskets. Thanks guys.

@356GS (Greg) posted:

I used the acorn cap nuts, and tightened them to 5 foot pounds per VW specs.  I will get a new plate (aluminum instead of steel).  Is there any specific strainer screen, or are they all pretty much the same?  Also what do you think of the Fel-Pro OS (rubberized)  gasket, instead of the paper gaskets. Thanks guys.

Well, let's see here:

I don't think it matters whether the sump plate is aluminum or steel, as long as it's flat.  Same goes for the mating surface on the engine case.

There is no specific strainer but it is possible that there is something funky about that one.  They're cheap so going to a new one is probably a good idea.

Here's the whole replacement kit from So-Cal:

https://socalautoparts.com/product/oil-strainer-kit/

And a variety of plates at CB Performance:

https://www.cbperformance.com/...mp+plate&Submit=

I have not had to use a Fel-Pro thicker gasket on a sump or plate, but used them on GM 350 V8 engines and they were great.  If you can find a thicker sump gasket set go ahead and use it - You could even make one from a sheet of thicker gasket material.  

The typical VW sump gaskets are pretty thin, for sure.

@Alan Merklin posted:

You don't need any sealer if all surfaces are smooth, when tightening down the plate sealer can squeeze out and get into the engine , not a good thing. Your friend installed a used plate that probably wasn't perfectly straight. If you have nuts instead of the acorn cap nuts and copper washers, it will leak.

Purchase a new plate, screen and oil change kit. Be sure the case to plate mating surface is very clean then replace the used ( gasket-screen - gasket then the plate ) with new parts.

The way I tighten the easy to strip acorn nuts: snug them using a criss cross pattern then with my pinky finger on a 1/4 ratchet alternate 1/8" turn on each acorn nut until snug. Drive it a bit and lightly snug them up again.

On top of all that, I like to coat both gaskets in grease* at the start of the job so it soaks in a bit. Not absolutely certain it helps with leaks (I think it does) but it sure helps keep the gaskets in place.

IMO, using the acorn nuts and new or annealed copper washers is the key.

*I use Wurth SIG 3000 grease. It’s a lot more elastic than regular bearing grease. Kind of like thin silicone sealant (but it never “sets up”) and it has a melting point of 500° IIRC.

https://www.wurthusa.com/Chemi...rtridge/p/0890401000

Well I ordered all the components, 1/2 from Amazon and 1/2 from CB Performance.  In two weeks we'll see how it works out.  Thanks again.

As far as sump plates are concerned, I REALLY like the JayCee one. It's got a big O-ring and six little ones. In the center is a recessed magnetic allen-head drain plug(also O-ringed). It's a REALLY nice piece.

The caveat is that you can't use a screen for a filter, in my opinion it should only be used with a full-flow setup or one that has a real oil filter.

EMPI bought JayCee, but the parts are still made in Jack's shop in California(as fa as I know).

https://empius.com/products/6-bolt-mag-plate-red-4/

I used one on the 2276 I built last year, along with their "No-Leak" pushrod tubes.

Mostly CB internals and heads(45 x 37.5), and CB dry-sump pump, 9.6:1,Mahle P&C, Scat rods and lifters, Webcam 86b, Berg 1.45:1 lifters. Fully balanced and blueprinted. Not dyno'd so don't know power. Runs cool and strong.

I like that JayCee one. It's more stream lined than what I have. I'll put it on my list.

The JayCee sump cover I bought for my first motor had the necessary tapped holes to mount the screen to. I wonder if they removed them or if certain covers have them.