Maybe I'm a bit jaded living in California for so long. It is not unusual to see Bentley convertibles, Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Aston Martins, et all, while out for a drive. I didn't mention Porsches because I've heard that something like 80% of all U. S. Porsches are in California, so they are as common as PT Cruisers. People in my neighborhood are NOT rich. But some very expensive ocean front communities are only a few miles away (about two million dollars west of my house). Most of these cars ignore me in speedy.
Grannies and high school hotties you see in local malls - THEY are interested. Younger guys will look but pretend they are not interested. Older farts, like me, will want to talk to you, mainly because they used to own a real 356 and they don't know they are looking at a replica. I always admit to owning a replica
Over all maybe 10% of the people I encounter have a brief comment, which I try to graciously acknowledge. It's part of the madness, and good for your ego.
I HAVE A DIFFERENT EXPERIENCE WITH PEOPLE OBSERVING THE CAR
EACH TIME VINCE, JIM AND I ARE OUT IN OUR CARS WE GET PEOPLE STARING AND POINTING.
WHEN WE PULL OVER OR ARE STOPPED SEVERAL ALWAYS COME UP TO THE CAR,
BUT THEY WANT TO KNOW WHO WE ARE AND WHY WE ARE SO GOOD LOOKING.
LADIES YOUNG AND OLD PRESS PAPERS WITH THEIR PHONE NUMBERS WRITTEN ON THEM AS THEIR BOY FRIENDS AND HUSBANDS LOOK AT OUR CARS
IM JUST SAYING
EACH TIME VINCE, JIM AND I ARE OUT IN OUR CARS WE GET PEOPLE STARING AND POINTING.
WHEN WE PULL OVER OR ARE STOPPED SEVERAL ALWAYS COME UP TO THE CAR,
BUT THEY WANT TO KNOW WHO WE ARE AND WHY WE ARE SO GOOD LOOKING.
LADIES YOUNG AND OLD PRESS PAPERS WITH THEIR PHONE NUMBERS WRITTEN ON THEM AS THEIR BOY FRIENDS AND HUSBANDS LOOK AT OUR CARS
IM JUST SAYING
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There is some truth to what Gerd says, but it doesn't hurt to drive a cool car...30 years ago I got more tail than a toilet seat at the YWCA, driving a Pinto, so these days it takes a replica speedster...I'm not proud
EVERY WOMAN DESIRES US - EVERY MAN WANTS TO BE LIKE US!
...Bwaaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaa!!
...Bwaaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaa haaaaaaaaaa!!
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Obviously a very modest group, the Speedster drivers.
In your opinion can I drive a replica Speedster across the country and back? I know I can do it, but would I enjoy it after days of rain, will cops pull me over for no reason, will annoying crowds assemble every time I gas up or stop for a beer, will I find naked young women curled up on the leather seats when I want to hit the road, etc.? Are the new VW engines reliable, the electrics sorted, etc.? For the price, I'd expect the car to perform perfectly. Am I dreaming?
In your opinion can I drive a replica Speedster across the country and back? I know I can do it, but would I enjoy it after days of rain, will cops pull me over for no reason, will annoying crowds assemble every time I gas up or stop for a beer, will I find naked young women curled up on the leather seats when I want to hit the road, etc.? Are the new VW engines reliable, the electrics sorted, etc.? For the price, I'd expect the car to perform perfectly. Am I dreaming?
Naked women curled up in the seat sounds like perfect performance to me :)
OK, Marshall,
My 2 cents! I love my Beck...Runs like a bat out of H--L, is classic in design, a total improvement of ~500% over the VW panned replicas(3 O.D. tubular racing type frame with NO twisting or bending), Your choice of engines and transmissions,colors, interiors, etc.
Also, let's not forget the MOST IMPORTANT...SERVICE---SERVICE---SERVICE and the personal touch of Carey Hines on every unit out the door!
My Merlot...Note highway speed at over 110MPH on N.C. mountain Interstate while a surprised Carrera driver was left with his mouth open! Thank You Carey Hines of Special Edition and Pat Downs of CB Performance! A special engine...see Tom Blankenship's post about his engine.
My 2 cents! I love my Beck...Runs like a bat out of H--L, is classic in design, a total improvement of ~500% over the VW panned replicas(3 O.D. tubular racing type frame with NO twisting or bending), Your choice of engines and transmissions,colors, interiors, etc.
Also, let's not forget the MOST IMPORTANT...SERVICE---SERVICE---SERVICE and the personal touch of Carey Hines on every unit out the door!
My Merlot...Note highway speed at over 110MPH on N.C. mountain Interstate while a surprised Carrera driver was left with his mouth open! Thank You Carey Hines of Special Edition and Pat Downs of CB Performance! A special engine...see Tom Blankenship's post about his engine.
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Aaron, I've been very impressed with Carey through email. He truly seems to know his stuff and care about building an exceptional car.
My $0.02 about Carey Hines. You won't find more responsive service anywhere. Carey even returned a phone call on a holiday to address a problem that had zero to do with any faults with his build. Oh, and the Beck is a great car also.
"In your opinion can I drive a replica Speedster across the country and back?"
John Hallstrand did it in his Subaru-powered SAS in 2004.
"I know I can do it, but would I enjoy it after days of rain, will cops pull me over for no reason, will annoying crowds assemble every time I gas up or stop for a beer, will I find naked young women curled up on the leather seats when I want to hit the road, etc.?"
Days of rain suck in any car - certainly more-so in a Speedster. Cops have never been a problem. In fact, they seem to "get it". I've not had to deal with "annoying crowds", but occasional friendly admirers. No naked young women in the car yet for me, at least. How 'bout you, Vince?
"Are the new VW engines reliable..." Depends on the builder, but the good ones certainly are.
"... the electrics sorted, etc.?" Same answer.
"For the price, I'd expect the car to perform perfectly. Am I dreaming?" Yeah, a little. There are custom-made cars, and for the price you quoted perfection is not easily attainable. For some of us that's part of the charm. Most modern cars with their soulless perfection are a bit of a turn-off.
John Hallstrand did it in his Subaru-powered SAS in 2004.
"I know I can do it, but would I enjoy it after days of rain, will cops pull me over for no reason, will annoying crowds assemble every time I gas up or stop for a beer, will I find naked young women curled up on the leather seats when I want to hit the road, etc.?"
Days of rain suck in any car - certainly more-so in a Speedster. Cops have never been a problem. In fact, they seem to "get it". I've not had to deal with "annoying crowds", but occasional friendly admirers. No naked young women in the car yet for me, at least. How 'bout you, Vince?
"Are the new VW engines reliable..." Depends on the builder, but the good ones certainly are.
"... the electrics sorted, etc.?" Same answer.
"For the price, I'd expect the car to perform perfectly. Am I dreaming?" Yeah, a little. There are custom-made cars, and for the price you quoted perfection is not easily attainable. For some of us that's part of the charm. Most modern cars with their soulless perfection are a bit of a turn-off.
The different prices quoted varied by $31,000. The lowest price was similar to the spread. I'm just trying to get the best feel I can for this project. I do not mind suffering for the poetry of thing.
Which engines and electrics would you recommend?
Which engines and electrics would you recommend?
You are asking quite a few different questions here, but they are related.
I've had three different speedsters- with each successive car, my expectations evolved a bit. My present recommendations are based on what I've experienced in 10 years of playing with these cars.
A lot of us got into this hobby thinking that it was going to be less expensive than buying a Boxster, or something similar. It looks like it should be on the surface, but you don't have to scratch very far before you realize that you could easily own something else for a lot less money. The only reason to own a speedster is because nothing else will scratch your itch. If something else does- buy it and don't look back.
If you want to USE the car, as opposed to playing with it on sunny days, there are some considerations. Firstly- what kind of guy are you? All speedsters leak to one degree or another, and all will require at least some mechanical aptitude to perform reliably. If your expectation is of a car that is a spiffy looking body with the heart of a Honda- then perhaps a nice used S2000 would be a lot better bet.
If you meet the criteria, then you really need to look first and foremost at the platform itself. I said that all speedsters leak to one degree or another, but the degree of leakiness is on an order of magnitude. My JPS leaked everywhere. My Intermeccanica leaks a tiny but of air from a couple of places on the top. I would drive the IM across the country, I worried driving the JPS an hour away (one never knows when it might rain).
The powertrain selection should follow the car- a less expensive engine/transaxle for a less expensive car, a more expensive powertrain for a more expensive car. I've got an Intermeccanica with a nice (and expensive) Type 1. If I had it to do again, I'd just plunk down the cash for a 911/6. All 200 hp cars are not created equally- a 2.7- 3.2 911/6 with the cam tensioner updates will run 150K mi, my 2332 will be lucky to see 50K mi. A nice Type 4, or a water-cooled mill (Audi or Subaru) is a good compromise.
Electrics? I'm not sure what you are asking here- yes, I think your car should have a battery, and lights.
Whatever you do- refrain from loading the car up with a bunch of goo-gaws. I'd say no AC unless you live in Florida. I've got a gasoline heater- it's nice, but if I was doing this again, I'd just skip it. I'm even anti-stereo.
Good luck.
I've had three different speedsters- with each successive car, my expectations evolved a bit. My present recommendations are based on what I've experienced in 10 years of playing with these cars.
A lot of us got into this hobby thinking that it was going to be less expensive than buying a Boxster, or something similar. It looks like it should be on the surface, but you don't have to scratch very far before you realize that you could easily own something else for a lot less money. The only reason to own a speedster is because nothing else will scratch your itch. If something else does- buy it and don't look back.
If you want to USE the car, as opposed to playing with it on sunny days, there are some considerations. Firstly- what kind of guy are you? All speedsters leak to one degree or another, and all will require at least some mechanical aptitude to perform reliably. If your expectation is of a car that is a spiffy looking body with the heart of a Honda- then perhaps a nice used S2000 would be a lot better bet.
If you meet the criteria, then you really need to look first and foremost at the platform itself. I said that all speedsters leak to one degree or another, but the degree of leakiness is on an order of magnitude. My JPS leaked everywhere. My Intermeccanica leaks a tiny but of air from a couple of places on the top. I would drive the IM across the country, I worried driving the JPS an hour away (one never knows when it might rain).
The powertrain selection should follow the car- a less expensive engine/transaxle for a less expensive car, a more expensive powertrain for a more expensive car. I've got an Intermeccanica with a nice (and expensive) Type 1. If I had it to do again, I'd just plunk down the cash for a 911/6. All 200 hp cars are not created equally- a 2.7- 3.2 911/6 with the cam tensioner updates will run 150K mi, my 2332 will be lucky to see 50K mi. A nice Type 4, or a water-cooled mill (Audi or Subaru) is a good compromise.
Electrics? I'm not sure what you are asking here- yes, I think your car should have a battery, and lights.
Whatever you do- refrain from loading the car up with a bunch of goo-gaws. I'd say no AC unless you live in Florida. I've got a gasoline heater- it's nice, but if I was doing this again, I'd just skip it. I'm even anti-stereo.
Good luck.
Marshall,
My friend Stan said it all for the most part. I have been twisting wrenches myself for over thirty years. I have restored a 1960 356 Sunroof Coupe to almost perfect. I have looked at worked on and driven a whole host of Porsche's 911's and 356's and different brands of replica Speedsters.
If you are worried about a car you can jump into and drive long distances then I would NOT go for the low end VW motor T-1 or T-4. If you want reliability and a great heater then I would opt for either a 1.8 or 2.0T water-cooled car. You have all the modern electronics and most VW shops could work on the engine. If you want a little more then a IM-6 with either the DME (84 up) or late CIS (78 to 83) injection is about as bullet proof a setup as you can get and as Stan pointed out good for 150K or so.
You can go out and buy a new Boxter or Cayman for less money than a new IM-6 out the door. The new cars have more creature comforts but which car is more cool to drive.
I will be having dinner with my friend Rick Davis and his wife tonight. Since September of 07 Rick now has almost 30K miles on his IM-6 Roadster. They left Canada a few days ago headed south for some fun and sun driving the IM-6. Build them correctly and they are year round cars not just for good weather. Weather good bad or otherwise driving a cool IM-6 Speedster or Roadster to me is the ultimate guilty pleasure.
Radio?
No Radio needed.......I will just listen to the music of the 3.0L motor. I will however have heated seats.......;-)
Here are a few pictures of my car now under construction. I only want to do this once and have the nearly perfect ride. BTW If you do decide to go for a IM-6 I just happen to have the perfect 78 Porsche Targa for a donor car with a rebuilt 3.0L motor.
My friend Stan said it all for the most part. I have been twisting wrenches myself for over thirty years. I have restored a 1960 356 Sunroof Coupe to almost perfect. I have looked at worked on and driven a whole host of Porsche's 911's and 356's and different brands of replica Speedsters.
If you are worried about a car you can jump into and drive long distances then I would NOT go for the low end VW motor T-1 or T-4. If you want reliability and a great heater then I would opt for either a 1.8 or 2.0T water-cooled car. You have all the modern electronics and most VW shops could work on the engine. If you want a little more then a IM-6 with either the DME (84 up) or late CIS (78 to 83) injection is about as bullet proof a setup as you can get and as Stan pointed out good for 150K or so.
You can go out and buy a new Boxter or Cayman for less money than a new IM-6 out the door. The new cars have more creature comforts but which car is more cool to drive.
I will be having dinner with my friend Rick Davis and his wife tonight. Since September of 07 Rick now has almost 30K miles on his IM-6 Roadster. They left Canada a few days ago headed south for some fun and sun driving the IM-6. Build them correctly and they are year round cars not just for good weather. Weather good bad or otherwise driving a cool IM-6 Speedster or Roadster to me is the ultimate guilty pleasure.
Radio?
No Radio needed.......I will just listen to the music of the 3.0L motor. I will however have heated seats.......;-)
Here are a few pictures of my car now under construction. I only want to do this once and have the nearly perfect ride. BTW If you do decide to go for a IM-6 I just happen to have the perfect 78 Porsche Targa for a donor car with a rebuilt 3.0L motor.
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I have had no electrical problems in my car in about 20k miles of use so far. The engine has been quite reliable, except for a few issues that I share the blame for. I have a strong 1915cc Type-1 built by Pat Downs at CB Performance and consider it to be one of the best. Jake Raby has a sterling reputation for his Type-4s, and Type-1s. Owners of his engines report long mileage with no problems. I've heard good things about Roland Ranscom (sp?) as well. That said, the lure of a modern water-cooled engine it tempting, and it can be satisfied by Intermeccanica, Beck, and SAS. I have almost all of my leaks (water and air) resolved, as most were minor.
All of these will require some occasional tinkering, but once fully sorted, they are pretty darned dependable. I've driven mine from Charleston, SC, to Carlisle, PA three times (round trip length ~1600 miles), and up to the Smoky mountains four times, and have no hesitancy about taking trip in it. Jack Crosby has driven from Hot Springs, AR to Carlisle twice and to the Smokies twice. I believe he plans to drive to Morro Bay, CA in April.
Stan is right that you can find many interesting sports cars (late model or classic) for what a replica will cost, but if you really want a 356 (Speedster, Roadster, or Cabriolet), go for it! You will love it.
Bottom line: Come to Carlisle in May before you make a decision. You can talk to many of us, ride in our cars, drive some of 'em, and talk to several of the manufacturers. Best possible place to research.
All of these will require some occasional tinkering, but once fully sorted, they are pretty darned dependable. I've driven mine from Charleston, SC, to Carlisle, PA three times (round trip length ~1600 miles), and up to the Smoky mountains four times, and have no hesitancy about taking trip in it. Jack Crosby has driven from Hot Springs, AR to Carlisle twice and to the Smokies twice. I believe he plans to drive to Morro Bay, CA in April.
Stan is right that you can find many interesting sports cars (late model or classic) for what a replica will cost, but if you really want a 356 (Speedster, Roadster, or Cabriolet), go for it! You will love it.
Bottom line: Come to Carlisle in May before you make a decision. You can talk to many of us, ride in our cars, drive some of 'em, and talk to several of the manufacturers. Best possible place to research.
Thanks again for all the helpful responses. I think some of you missed my first thread post where I explained that I'm only interested in a 1956 Speedster replica. There isn't any other car that interests me. I think we all agree that there is a certain feel and look to the early 356 that cannot be matched once you have the bug, and as I said, my first memories were in a 356 continuing through my teen years until I bought my own 1956 coupe a week after I turned eighteen.
As to 911 engines, I rebuilt the carbs and put a clutch in my 1970 Targa, so I'm kind of familiar with them. Never liked the looks of the 911, but the engine was lovely from 4,200 rpm to red line. Wouldn't it be too much power and weight in a 1,600 lb replica?
No interest in a radio or AC or power windows. I can stand a few leaks, etc. A heater is nice, but I drove my 356 A for years with rusted out heater boxes. It was -20 once going across parts of the country and that got pretty miserable after 20 hours of straight driving, but it sure kept me awake.
I'm buying this car to experience the 356 poetry again, not for comfort.
Carlisle sounds like a foolproof solution. If I can wait that long.
How many cars do Beck and IM build a year?
As to 911 engines, I rebuilt the carbs and put a clutch in my 1970 Targa, so I'm kind of familiar with them. Never liked the looks of the 911, but the engine was lovely from 4,200 rpm to red line. Wouldn't it be too much power and weight in a 1,600 lb replica?
No interest in a radio or AC or power windows. I can stand a few leaks, etc. A heater is nice, but I drove my 356 A for years with rusted out heater boxes. It was -20 once going across parts of the country and that got pretty miserable after 20 hours of straight driving, but it sure kept me awake.
I'm buying this car to experience the 356 poetry again, not for comfort.
Carlisle sounds like a foolproof solution. If I can wait that long.
How many cars do Beck and IM build a year?
I'm going to have to wholeheartedly recommend a Type IV.
I have no fear at all of taking a road trip.
I have no fear at all of taking a road trip.
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Corey, I'm not sure I know what a Type IV is. Sorry, but I've been out of the loop for too long. Thanks for the offer of a ride by the way. Why would I need a crash helmet?
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I don't have any intention of starting a holy war here, but if you are honest in your questions, then you deserve an honest response.
If it sounds like I'm describing an Intermeccanica, it's because I am. I'd recommend an IM roadster for total weather protection (95% of the speedster look, none of the speedster compromises), with the more comfortable roadster seats, a full 911 suspension, a 915 transaxle, and either a 2.7- 3.2 911 mill, or a Raby Type IV.
Expensive? You bet- and worth every penny if you've got the money, and have the 356 fever so bad you are willing to pay for the best. The difference is a whole lot more than roll-up windows (which all Intermeccanicas have), or the other creature comforts that some buyers build in (but which I eschewed). Take a look- the cars are fantastic.
I have absolutely nothing against any other builder, as long as the prospective buyer understands the apples/oranges thing. Cary makes a really, really nice speedster, and is an all around great guy- I'd do business with him in a heartbeat. I'd love to buy a Spyder from him, if I had the money and the room.
But in the end (after two other cars), I ended up buying a car that seemed way overpriced when I got into the hobby in 2000. All these cars look the same on the outside, but underneath are as different as a VW and a Porsche. You need to decide how big a deal what's under the skin is to you. You need to know if you want a cool cruiser, or a legitimate sports car. All speedsters are exceedingly cool, but they are not the same.
Forewarned is forearmed.
I don't have any intention of starting a holy war here, but if you are honest in your questions, then you deserve an honest response.
If it sounds like I'm describing an Intermeccanica, it's because I am. I'd recommend an IM roadster for total weather protection (95% of the speedster look, none of the speedster compromises), with the more comfortable roadster seats, a full 911 suspension, a 915 transaxle, and either a 2.7- 3.2 911 mill, or a Raby Type IV.
Expensive? You bet- and worth every penny if you've got the money, and have the 356 fever so bad you are willing to pay for the best. The difference is a whole lot more than roll-up windows (which all Intermeccanicas have), or the other creature comforts that some buyers build in (but which I eschewed). Take a look- the cars are fantastic.
I have absolutely nothing against any other builder, as long as the prospective buyer understands the apples/oranges thing. Cary makes a really, really nice speedster, and is an all around great guy- I'd do business with him in a heartbeat. I'd love to buy a Spyder from him, if I had the money and the room.
But in the end (after two other cars), I ended up buying a car that seemed way overpriced when I got into the hobby in 2000. All these cars look the same on the outside, but underneath are as different as a VW and a Porsche. You need to decide how big a deal what's under the skin is to you. You need to know if you want a cool cruiser, or a legitimate sports car. All speedsters are exceedingly cool, but they are not the same.
Forewarned is forearmed.
Marshall-
You sound like the right kind of guy. Sorry- there's a lot of dreamers and folks not really cut out for something "close to the bone". a Boxster/S2000/Miata is really a better bet for 90% of the motoring population.
You can get any car, built by anybody, painted in any color you'd like. You are not locked into the floor mounted hand-brake. My Intermeccanica has an original 356 "umbrella" hand-brake under the dash. I've got the long map pockets, and love them. You can make the car looks as original or custom as you desire.
I have no Porsche badges anywhere on my car. Mickey D thinks I'm an idiot for advocating this- but as the "forum moron" (thanks again DS! Got that tank out yet?), I'm OK with that. ;) I'm proud of what it really is.
As for a 911/6 being "too much", I suppose that's a matter of taste. In my first car I thought a 60 hp 1776 was OK, but torque is like a drug- more is, well, MORE. If you plan to drive across the country, I'd recommend something in at least the 130 hp or so neighborhood. A nicely built 2110 Type 1 will do that, but a Type IV would do it more easily and with more longevity.
Type IVs are flat 4 VW/Porsche engines used in late busses and 914s. They share the same architecture as the VW engines you know (flat 4 air-cooed), but are the "big block" version. They will accept up to 4" pistons, and can be built out to 3L, if you have the money.
And there's the rub- a quality high output (200 hp) Type 1, Type IV, or Porsche 2.7- 3.2 is going to cost north of $10K, dressed out. The Type 1 will be the cheapest, but will be the most difficult to find a real-live grown up to build. I had Chico Performance build my Type 1 2332- it's a really, really nice Type 1 with the best of everything. Art Thraen would probably be my current first choice for a Type 1. Type IVs are more expensive, but have better longevity for the same horsepower. FAT performance in CA has been doing them for years, Raby Aircooled Technologies (RAT) has raised Type IV to an art-form. Prices for good Type IVs start were Type 1s finish- $10K, or so, and go up from there.
It's enough to make a 2.7L 911 engine look reasonable. Both the Type IV, and the 911 mill will easily go 100K mi at the 150- 200 hp range. Even a really nice Type 1 will only last about half that without attention at that h/p level. I like engines, and use my car differently than you plan (I do mostly day trips, making errands a mini-vacation). I have 6 months a year I don't want to drive (you will too, from your address tag), and use the time to do winter upgrades every season. My car is a work in progress, built on a beautiful base. "Freshing up" after 50K mi sounds like fun to me, since I take my engine out pretty much every year anyhow. I bought my car as a "coach" from Intermeccanica, and have been playing with my powertrain ever since.
If you plan to drive the car long distances, and are getting it built from scratch- get a Porsche 915 5 speed with a Wevo shifter. Nothing else you do will be as important. I have a Rancho pro-street 4 speed- every gear is custom. It works great, but I'd still like the extra step a 5 speed would provide.
I'd also recommend a full 911 suspension. Most of the higher end Intermeccancias have this option. The ability to corner-balance the car, and the difference in handling and ride alone make it worth what it costs.
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You sound like the right kind of guy. Sorry- there's a lot of dreamers and folks not really cut out for something "close to the bone". a Boxster/S2000/Miata is really a better bet for 90% of the motoring population.
You can get any car, built by anybody, painted in any color you'd like. You are not locked into the floor mounted hand-brake. My Intermeccanica has an original 356 "umbrella" hand-brake under the dash. I've got the long map pockets, and love them. You can make the car looks as original or custom as you desire.
I have no Porsche badges anywhere on my car. Mickey D thinks I'm an idiot for advocating this- but as the "forum moron" (thanks again DS! Got that tank out yet?), I'm OK with that. ;) I'm proud of what it really is.
As for a 911/6 being "too much", I suppose that's a matter of taste. In my first car I thought a 60 hp 1776 was OK, but torque is like a drug- more is, well, MORE. If you plan to drive across the country, I'd recommend something in at least the 130 hp or so neighborhood. A nicely built 2110 Type 1 will do that, but a Type IV would do it more easily and with more longevity.
Type IVs are flat 4 VW/Porsche engines used in late busses and 914s. They share the same architecture as the VW engines you know (flat 4 air-cooed), but are the "big block" version. They will accept up to 4" pistons, and can be built out to 3L, if you have the money.
And there's the rub- a quality high output (200 hp) Type 1, Type IV, or Porsche 2.7- 3.2 is going to cost north of $10K, dressed out. The Type 1 will be the cheapest, but will be the most difficult to find a real-live grown up to build. I had Chico Performance build my Type 1 2332- it's a really, really nice Type 1 with the best of everything. Art Thraen would probably be my current first choice for a Type 1. Type IVs are more expensive, but have better longevity for the same horsepower. FAT performance in CA has been doing them for years, Raby Aircooled Technologies (RAT) has raised Type IV to an art-form. Prices for good Type IVs start were Type 1s finish- $10K, or so, and go up from there.
It's enough to make a 2.7L 911 engine look reasonable. Both the Type IV, and the 911 mill will easily go 100K mi at the 150- 200 hp range. Even a really nice Type 1 will only last about half that without attention at that h/p level. I like engines, and use my car differently than you plan (I do mostly day trips, making errands a mini-vacation). I have 6 months a year I don't want to drive (you will too, from your address tag), and use the time to do winter upgrades every season. My car is a work in progress, built on a beautiful base. "Freshing up" after 50K mi sounds like fun to me, since I take my engine out pretty much every year anyhow. I bought my car as a "coach" from Intermeccanica, and have been playing with my powertrain ever since.
If you plan to drive the car long distances, and are getting it built from scratch- get a Porsche 915 5 speed with a Wevo shifter. Nothing else you do will be as important. I have a Rancho pro-street 4 speed- every gear is custom. It works great, but I'd still like the extra step a 5 speed would provide.
I'd also recommend a full 911 suspension. Most of the higher end Intermeccancias have this option. The ability to corner-balance the car, and the difference in handling and ride alone make it worth what it costs.
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Stan, thanks so much for that. I'd made the assumption that the suspension, steering, trans, etc., were fairly standard. I knew the engines varied. I looked at the photos of your Speedster. Nice clean car. There's a lot to think about here. I'm beginning to understand why IM is more expensive, but I suppose it's up to me if I think that difference is worth the cost.
Drive them both at Carlisle. Then you can make the most informed decision possible.
Stan,
You forgot to mention the H2O cooled 1.8t option in the IMs. It will also go 100k w/ little attention at 225HP. Mine is bolted to a 915 tranny and I love it.
Tomm
You forgot to mention the H2O cooled 1.8t option in the IMs. It will also go 100k w/ little attention at 225HP. Mine is bolted to a 915 tranny and I love it.
Tomm
Stan, Stan, Stan, now lets not start the emblem thing again ;)
And I don't think you're an idiot for keeping your car clear of emblems.
Doesn't Carey offer the 1.8L as well?
And I don't think you're an idiot for keeping your car clear of emblems.
Doesn't Carey offer the 1.8L as well?
Yup. At least they've made a few of 'em.
Marshall,
I did a long post that did not go because it took more than 20 min (multi-tasking) and was timed out. Bummer my friend Stan would have been proud.....;_)
Bottom line is go here and read the Excellence article about the IM-6: http://www.intermeccanica.com/site_assets/pdf/ARTICLES/EXCELLENCE.pdf
The 1.8/2.0 water-cooled cars are on the heavier frame as well.
They are NOT 1600 lbs and the IM-6 will be 2200 to 2300 Lbs.
I have LOTS of pictures Henry has sent me during my build I can share.
Cheers,
Dave
I did a long post that did not go because it took more than 20 min (multi-tasking) and was timed out. Bummer my friend Stan would have been proud.....;_)
Bottom line is go here and read the Excellence article about the IM-6: http://www.intermeccanica.com/site_assets/pdf/ARTICLES/EXCELLENCE.pdf
The 1.8/2.0 water-cooled cars are on the heavier frame as well.
They are NOT 1600 lbs and the IM-6 will be 2200 to 2300 Lbs.
I have LOTS of pictures Henry has sent me during my build I can share.
Cheers,
Dave
Marshall,
You are getting one whale of a lot of really good advice here, even if some of it sounds contradictory. I know about the "bug" as I had a '56 A Coupe and a '61 S90 many years ago. The VW mills will give you a good bit of the right sound, being air cooled, but to my ear, I can tell it's a VW and not an old 356 -- I bet you will notice the diff too. But it is close enough, and the muffler will matter a lot. The classic look: you can indeeed get real close on this, and I like your comment about being enthralled w/ the idea that the replicar will be "new" vs. anything that an original 356 could be other than rusty and redone. I like this part esp'y about my car. The back 1/3 of the floor pan and the engine/tranny yoke is from a '72 bug, and the rest of the material is brand new. I have IRS and disk brakes all around, and this is a very good set up. Large sway bars too. Ride is a bit stiff, but VERY flat. 2332 motor makes it go real good. I had a banjo wheel in the old 356 A and could not stand it -- looked pretty funky to me, and was too flexible. I know it says "original" like nothing else, but back in the day, I would have had a Nardi instead if I could have afforded it. My Speesdter has the Nardi. Also coco mats -- the only way to go. There is a synthetic fiber that looks a bit like the German square weave and will not smell like old dirty dogs when it gets wet. And trust me on this: it will get wet. The paint is hardest of all because you can have anything you want, and there is so much to choose. Just know this: whatever you get (besides maybe pink) is going to look gorgeous on a Speedster -- the shape just does that. And so it all comes down to what you want, and I think you will get it pretty close, listening to all that goes here. What you get, unless it is a custom Porsche-parts build from Henry, will be a glorified VW. But it will look (and sound) so much like a Speedster and be so cool, you will be reliving the experience you treasure from the "good old 356" days. I also agree w/ one assessment made above: seems like you have your head on straight here, and will not be fooled/disappointed. The cars require some fiddling (which it sounds like you can handle), they leak both air and rain, to some degree, and are not much like a Honda or Lexus. To which I say "RIGHT ON!!!"
Come to Carlisle and see 'em all, get some rides and talk some more w/ Henry, and the other builders. mAybe you will decide to buy used and drive for a while, as some here have espoused. That could work. For me, I was pretty sure I knew what would be the right thing, and the money was an issue for me, looking to stay at around $30K. If money were no object, and having seen what IM can do, I am sure I would work w/ Henry to get me one of those 911 356 Speedsters that he makes bascially from scratch. There could be no finer car anywhere. And to answer another of your questions: you cannot have too much HP; torque is in fact addictive.
PS: Stan-the-man above says it better than I can and has it pretty straight. Listen to him.
You are getting one whale of a lot of really good advice here, even if some of it sounds contradictory. I know about the "bug" as I had a '56 A Coupe and a '61 S90 many years ago. The VW mills will give you a good bit of the right sound, being air cooled, but to my ear, I can tell it's a VW and not an old 356 -- I bet you will notice the diff too. But it is close enough, and the muffler will matter a lot. The classic look: you can indeeed get real close on this, and I like your comment about being enthralled w/ the idea that the replicar will be "new" vs. anything that an original 356 could be other than rusty and redone. I like this part esp'y about my car. The back 1/3 of the floor pan and the engine/tranny yoke is from a '72 bug, and the rest of the material is brand new. I have IRS and disk brakes all around, and this is a very good set up. Large sway bars too. Ride is a bit stiff, but VERY flat. 2332 motor makes it go real good. I had a banjo wheel in the old 356 A and could not stand it -- looked pretty funky to me, and was too flexible. I know it says "original" like nothing else, but back in the day, I would have had a Nardi instead if I could have afforded it. My Speesdter has the Nardi. Also coco mats -- the only way to go. There is a synthetic fiber that looks a bit like the German square weave and will not smell like old dirty dogs when it gets wet. And trust me on this: it will get wet. The paint is hardest of all because you can have anything you want, and there is so much to choose. Just know this: whatever you get (besides maybe pink) is going to look gorgeous on a Speedster -- the shape just does that. And so it all comes down to what you want, and I think you will get it pretty close, listening to all that goes here. What you get, unless it is a custom Porsche-parts build from Henry, will be a glorified VW. But it will look (and sound) so much like a Speedster and be so cool, you will be reliving the experience you treasure from the "good old 356" days. I also agree w/ one assessment made above: seems like you have your head on straight here, and will not be fooled/disappointed. The cars require some fiddling (which it sounds like you can handle), they leak both air and rain, to some degree, and are not much like a Honda or Lexus. To which I say "RIGHT ON!!!"
Come to Carlisle and see 'em all, get some rides and talk some more w/ Henry, and the other builders. mAybe you will decide to buy used and drive for a while, as some here have espoused. That could work. For me, I was pretty sure I knew what would be the right thing, and the money was an issue for me, looking to stay at around $30K. If money were no object, and having seen what IM can do, I am sure I would work w/ Henry to get me one of those 911 356 Speedsters that he makes bascially from scratch. There could be no finer car anywhere. And to answer another of your questions: you cannot have too much HP; torque is in fact addictive.
PS: Stan-the-man above says it better than I can and has it pretty straight. Listen to him.
Conventional wisdom has been disks in front drums in the rear. Good for the front wheel drive consumer cars, but not exactly right for rear engine configuration. Get disks on all four wheels.
As far as leaking is concerned, find the floor plug (see attached) and pull it.
Sound system? Nothing beats 1-4-3-2 with two Dells and a 2110 breathing through the gears!
1-4-3-2 out!
As far as leaking is concerned, find the floor plug (see attached) and pull it.
Sound system? Nothing beats 1-4-3-2 with two Dells and a 2110 breathing through the gears!
1-4-3-2 out!
Attachments
Images (1)
Mike said:
"Sound system? Nothing beats 1-4-3-2 with two Dells and a 2110 breathing through the gears! "
Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!
"Sound system? Nothing beats 1-4-3-2 with two Dells and a 2110 breathing through the gears! "
Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!
Front disc and rear drum are fine, considering the weight of a speedster, four wheel disc brakes are over kill and a waste of money...Four wheel discs will require a 2 lb. in line residual valve on the rear brake line to assure a high brake pedal. ~Alan
Dave - right on! To me, it's hard to beat the sound of an air-cooled 911 engine winding up to redline!!
12 cyl flat in a ferrari sounds bitchin' cool
Speaking of "sound systems"...
Terry, that is pretty cool.
Aw hell! That's worth getting just for the laughs you'll get!
Tomm - The single best exhaust note I've ever heard was from a 1990 Testarossa with a Tubi exhaust at about 120MPH. Wonderful Italian symphony!
Dave, 1-5-3-6-2-4
"Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!"
Sounds like harmony to me!
Lets find a couple of tree lined chicanes and blend the sounds, maybe a cliff or two for echo. You can have the high rpm fuel injection sound and I'll take the low end with carbs, lug the engine a bit for the lows.
Then lets do some alarm tripping - my favorite city sport.
You going to have your car soon? Zoom, zoom...
1-4-3-2 out!
"Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!"
Sounds like harmony to me!
Lets find a couple of tree lined chicanes and blend the sounds, maybe a cliff or two for echo. You can have the high rpm fuel injection sound and I'll take the low end with carbs, lug the engine a bit for the lows.
Then lets do some alarm tripping - my favorite city sport.
You going to have your car soon? Zoom, zoom...
1-4-3-2 out!
THAT is TOOOO Bitchin!!! Where can I get one of those?
Very cool. Here it is: http://www.soundracer.se/
Amazon sells 'em for $39.95.
Michael said:
Dave, 1-5-3-6-2-4
"Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!"
Sounds like harmony to me!
Lets find a couple of tree lined chicanes and blend the sounds, maybe a cliff or two for echo. You can have the high rpm fuel injection sound and I'll take the low end with carbs, lug the engine a bit for the lows.
Then lets do some alarm tripping - my favorite city sport.
You going to have your car soon? Zoom, zoom...
1-4-3-2 out!
I hope to have the car in late April or early May.
BTW a flat six Porsche is 1-6-2-4-3-5.......;-) My motor is built for the low end torque running 40 mm Webers. 225 ft/lbs at 4700 .....
Dave, 1-5-3-6-2-4
"Other than a 3.0L in a IM-6.........pirceless!"
Sounds like harmony to me!
Lets find a couple of tree lined chicanes and blend the sounds, maybe a cliff or two for echo. You can have the high rpm fuel injection sound and I'll take the low end with carbs, lug the engine a bit for the lows.
Then lets do some alarm tripping - my favorite city sport.
You going to have your car soon? Zoom, zoom...
1-4-3-2 out!
I hope to have the car in late April or early May.
BTW a flat six Porsche is 1-6-2-4-3-5.......;-) My motor is built for the low end torque running 40 mm Webers. 225 ft/lbs at 4700 .....