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Hi guys,

Noticed this last year occasionally...My 04 Beck Speedster would just shut off at a stop light...Never did it while at speed. It idles perfectly at 800-900 rpm, carbs are nicely setup (1600cc motor) The car basically runs like a top. But it sometimes simply shuts off at a stop....Fires right back up everytime. It DOESN'T sputter when this happens..It's like someone shutting off the ignition switch.

Cap and rotor look new, This was a factory built car so everything is very nicely done.

I'm just was wondering if an iginition coil on it's way out could cause this??? Figured I'd ask the pro's.

Thanks
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Hi guys,

Noticed this last year occasionally...My 04 Beck Speedster would just shut off at a stop light...Never did it while at speed. It idles perfectly at 800-900 rpm, carbs are nicely setup (1600cc motor) The car basically runs like a top. But it sometimes simply shuts off at a stop....Fires right back up everytime. It DOESN'T sputter when this happens..It's like someone shutting off the ignition switch.

Cap and rotor look new, This was a factory built car so everything is very nicely done.

I'm just was wondering if an iginition coil on it's way out could cause this??? Figured I'd ask the pro's.

Thanks
While coils are pretty robust, they do fail. You can test yours with a volt/ohm meter by checking resistance. 3-4.5 ohms is normal. Your coil maker and model will have correct ohms listed somewhere on the net. They're not costly, so installing a new one is a good start. A bad coil will usually show symptoms of poor running, since it gradually or suddenly quits producing the high voltage (upwards of 40,000V)needed by the plugs to fire properly. Many times, replacing a coil is a defualt diagnosis by a shop, since it's economical, quick, and easy to perform. If the symptom goes away, problem solved. If not, put the old one back on and keep looking.

As you know, occassional electrical gremlins are the bane of car owners. It's tough to have a mechanic diagnose a problem that isn't present when you bring the car in. Like others have suggested, I would suspect an electrical fault somewhere in the ignition system. I would check all wires/fittings from the battery on, including grounds. Ignition switches are an inexpensive fix also.
Not a fool-proof test, BUT often times when these ignition switches go bad they short to the case of the switch. Using a 12v test light, see if you have 12v on the outside case of the switch or bezel. If so, replace it. Again, lack of 12v doesn't mean it is not bad, but presence of 12v means it is bad. Coil is a good possibility too, first double check all the push on connections at the coil and make sure none are loose.
One quick question....

This is a 2004 Beck with a 1600 twin carb motor. The car was a turnkey built by Special Editions. My question is this...

I assume these cars have external resistors on the coils.

I was wondering if there is any advantage to going with the Bosch Blue Coil. I picked up an off the shelf generic coil from a local parts store and wasn't sure if this would be OK for the long haul. The car has electronic ignition WITHOUT points or condensor. From what I've read about the Bosch Coils they make them is a few different models with different resistance levels. Which one do I need for this car????

Thanks

Lane, your coil had a 3 Ohm internal resistor. The genuine epoxy filled Bosch blue coils do.
FD: if your motor is an OE VW Mexico 1600 the ignition system is specific to factory VW Mexico motors (if I understood Pat @ CB correctly) and uses a higher discharge coil and special external resistor (the aforementioned box). Any time I have had to replace these coils Pat has had to send me the special black VW Mexico coil or a non-standard Bosch non resistor coil. Just FYI. IF it is not a OE VW Mexico 1600 then it would most likely have an 009 and 3 Ohm resistor coil.
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