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how would you build a 2110.I'm looking for something thats good on the highway,fast on country roads,and quick with some rubber off the start,I don't want to have to wrench it every weekend and it should last 3 years or so.Is there such an animal? Any help would be appreciated..Thanks Angus

1957 Intermeccanica (convertable D)

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Angus:

I have a 2110 running dual 40mm carbs and an Engle 120 cam, a VW tranny running stock gear ratios (.88 fourth, same as a Beetle) and 16" wheels - oversized tires.

Just made a car club run to Aiken, SC yesterday to a meet - about 2-1/2 hours each way, convoying with a '67 Chevelle 396, a 280ZX and a 1969 GTO running a 428 V-8. Mostly secondary roads with a short stretch of I-95 in the middle. First time I had been in a "convoy" of cars with it, let alone some built V-8's. We were running between 55 mph and 70 on the secondary roads (speed limit between 55 and 60) and 80'ish on the interstate (and I STILL got passed by a trailer truck!!)

I had absolutely no problem keeping up with the big V-8's, and found that I could pull out and pass on a secondary road without downshifting (passing range 60 - 75) and still kept up with the Chevelle (who was leading and also passing -THAT was a surprise, really).

I think if you get Pat Downs to build you a well set-up one, you'll have no complaints.

Gordon
Angus, you're probably better off (cost wise) to have it built locally. The best builder in the Vancouver area is Darren K (can't remember his last name). Most of the B.C. VWs shown in HotVWs magazine had motors built by Darren. He's also a very good head porter. He built my first motor for me; a 1776. I had a 2110 built by someone else, and even though the car went great, I wasn't happy with the builder. I should of had Darren build that motor too. Phone Air Speed (a VW shop) to get Darren's phone number. Geof, one of the owners, knows Darren well. Another forum member (Ron L) had Darren build him a killer motor last spring.
www.airspeedparts.com/

Ron
Angus, you may want to go with 94mm pistons, rather than the 90.5. I've taken it for granted that you're running an 82mm crank. The 86B cam is a great cam, but the 38 carbs might be a bit small, if you plan to put out some decent hp.
Now, if you're planning on a motor that is a great highway cruiser, gets good gas mileage and has plenty of torque, you may want to keep the 38s, keep your valves small, go with a good port job, run the 86b cam, keep the valve lift moderate and keep the compression around 9.0:1. If you want a VERY fast car, then build a motor like Ron L's. He turned a 14.1 at Mission Raceway last summer, and with a bit of practice could easily run into the high 13s. That's fast!
Ron,your right on the crank,Tell me,why would you go with the 94's over the 90.5's? Small valves and low lift due to small carbs,do I have it right? most of my driving is back road country and highway usually speeds around 80 to 110ks back and forth to work,the odd spin up the malahat or out to sooke,same speeds.(maybe more)still I would like to be able to smoke'em when the urge strikes.
Jim,
I might be able to attend, when is it? As for the shroud, it took a lot of trial and error but by using internal vanage, I was able to attain temp differences no greater than 15 degrees between all of the cylinders. I also reduced the ratio by CNC'ing making my own smaller degreed pulley. I also use some of the air to cool oil which also works for interior space heating.

Ricardo,
Good catch, sorry for the typo! My pistons are indeed 90.5-mm. I am currently working on a 2387-cc (86-mm x 94-mm) and at the time I had 94's on my mind. Unfortunately, looks like the posts can't be edited (or can they?).

George,
I am using a 13lb lightened flywheel and the engine idles and revs very nicely--very responsive!

I will try to post some more pics.

BTW, I do not think I will need another shroud so I just might sell the shroud mold along with one of the Al-Mag alloy shroud-ring stands I also made along with the sand cast pattern made of wood.

Anyone interested?
Thanks,
Tony

I have the 2110 from Henry. Its a blast on tight twisty roads but don't count on burning rubber off the line. Too much shaking!!

I am in the process of getting a new engine from CB thats a 2300cc alum block. Sound really crank things up. My question for those in the know is trannies -- I have the four speed but think I should go to a porsche 5 speed. Thoughts?

Dean
I built my own 2110-cc and it is awesome and has power everywhere and some still to spare!! The following are my specs:

- 82-mm welded and balanced counterweighted stroker
- Chromoly I-beam 5.4" rods with 220-psi ARP bolts
- 30-mm Melling oil pump
- 044 Cb Performance heads with dual springs and 40-mm x 35.5-mm valves
- Dual 44 IDF carburetions
- My own 911 shroud design (I actually managed within15 degree temps between the four cylinders!)
- Full flowed with HP-1 Fram and external oil cooler (I get between 185-190 degrees)
- Webcam 122/125 cam with 105 degree lobe centers (Thanks to Jake's suggestion!)
- 9.5:1 Compression ratio on super unleaded
- New AS41 Case
- 90.5-mm Cima-Mahle pistons and cylinders
- All "German" bearings
- All balanced together

I should have some pics in my pic folder. Good luck with yours!
Alan, the thick flywheel rim (clutch mounting flange) on a "lightened" 12.5 lb. flywheel was drilled with five holes of equal depth and fairly large diameter between the clutch pressure plate mounting holes; then the flywheel and pressure plate mounted to the crank and balanced.

We used to lighten BMW /5/6/7 motorcycle flywheels in the same manner and it works fine with no ill effects.
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