Did you know that there are 26 places where your braking system can leak fluid?
I know this because I've spent the last three days checking all of those places in my newly installed braking system. This is the first time I've replaced the entire system. Everything is new. Even the brake pedal. 
I think I've won the leaking battle.....I hope. I put paper towels under the last offender this morning and by the late afternoon the towel was spotless.
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The trick, I guess, is to make the junctions tight, but not too tight. And using all new stuff should make the deal come out perfect. Are you doing the tubing flares, or are they already done?
I bought all the lines already made from Cip1. Shaping the fronts and rears wasn't too bad, but shaping the long line from the front to the back too a while. My buggy is 13" shorter than a Beetle, so I had to be creative and do something with the extra inches.
I remember looking inside of the left rear wheel well on a speedster at Carlisle once when someone was mesing with their car in the parking lot. The builder had used a stock VW sedan front-to-back tube and rather than get it shortened, he just made a couple of loops in it just before the rear "T". It worked, but it was good that it couldn't be seen with the wheel on. 
I can say first hand: flaring is a PITA unless you have the really expensive tool to do it...
My first attempt was with a standard VW (stainless steel) kit and it was a PITA to bend correctly. So... I bought a roll of copper/nickel brake line, cut correct lengths for each section to minimize bends, and modified a few flare tools to get a really good European flare. I used the stainless steel ends from the original kit I bought too. Probably over kill, but the process was fun 
I thought about using straight copper lines... but it was a little pricey...
Gordon Nichols posted:I remember looking inside of the left rear wheel well on a speedster at Carlisle once when someone was mesing with their car in the parking lot. The builder had used a stock VW sedan front-to-back tube and rather than get it shortened, he just made a couple of loops in it just before the rear "T". It worked, but it was good that it couldn't be seen with the wheel on.
I looped mine in the front (mostly) and some in the rear
