356 GT / Carrera Windows for Speedster replicas

Glass to windshield seal is a continual issue, IM moves the windshield rear ward to  for a better fit. Roll up mechanism.....I believe CMC utilized a Chevette set up.

Chesil has an apparently effective solution (rains a whole lot in UK!) - although it isn't very attractive. What are you going to do about door handle and door pull?

Thanks.

The idea wasn't to make a perfect seal. Rather to have "convertible" cruise windows. However, I could easily adjust my design to add some type of gusset to seal the space to the windshield.

Those pesky door handles...

Convertible cruZin windows.  Maybe I can come up with something!How about this.    http://kvan.hopto.org/CruzinWindows.htm

Yeah - They look great. But, I'm trying to get away with having to take them out and store them.

The goal is to not cut into the fiberglass, keep it light weight, and not to have to remove and store them; of course keep some wind out of the face. And I think the design accomplishes all of that.

Regarding the door handles -- Yeah, mine are in a terrible spot which limit me to a certain window height (unless I relocate the handle lower).

However, the height is acceptable actually and doubles as a "stop" for the window when it goes down. I have a U shape cut out so that the window goes around the door handle and therefore keeps a good length in the frame and is stable (won't rattle) since most of the window is still in the guides.

I'd like to see a second generation Cruzin Window reshaped for a snug fit to a raised soft top...and the driver's window hinged at the base so it rotates at least 90degrees in so tolls can be easily paid (a lot of toll roads and bridges in the East) and also rotated in for fresh air without interfering with steering.

Would you like them to be power-actuated, Carl? 

Carl - EZPass is answer to tolls in NE.  Buy from a state that doesn't impose monthly fees (even if you don't live in that state).  Argh - turned mine in since FL has SUNpass which doesn't recognize EZPass.

I would like to see how they fit with the top up as is. I'm thinking it would not have to be really tight so it would let in some air to keep the windshield clear and keep most of the rain out.  I've driven in the rain with my snug fitting  side curtains in and ended up removing one to keep from fogging up the windshield.

Rain-X (used to repel rain on outside windshield) makes a product called Fog-X that can be used on inside of windshield.

"power actuated"...never! I get enough sneers from PCA purists as it is.

But I would like to see a detachable lexan window that's been heat deformed to fit against the windshield post of the speedster. Compressed with a tight waterproof fit by a rubber strip,... and locked tight with a wing vent closure.  

Yep.  That front edge has been giving me fits since I first started trying to develop a better window.

I made a Lexan set using Troys cruszn hardware, they sealed 95% or better at the front 

Jeez Al,

Don't tease us...Details and how you accomplished this...Please.

My side window front rubber gaskets (CMC stuff) seal adequately along the window frame - I don't get much, if any, moisture getting in there, but I do get some at the very base of the windshield frame which sneaks in at the door opening.  I've modified the leading edge to be much more the shape of the windshield frame (removing that silly bump on the CMC version) so the gasket tube seals much better along the frame and is held in place by a small (1/2" wide) metal clip that guides the window into place when the door is closed.

Mine also don't leak along the top of the side windows unless I'm doing 70+ MPH and get passed by a big truck, then I get a gap at the top and a little spray comes in.  They also allow you to close the door more-or-less the same as a top-down car.....Get in and shut the door - that's about it.

Next year, if I get around to it, I'll be making a new pair of side windows out of 1/4" thick clear Acrylic (up from present 1/8" thick) to make them stiffer and avoid the bowing at high speeds I see now.

I will take pics this weekend

Attached pictures of the ones on my car.  Hardware from fibersteel. they work great.    Keep out "most" of the Seattle rain.  I have yet to find a foam seal to close the gap.  But I actually like a little air coming in to keep the car from fogging up.  Cheers, Luis

These are the ones that Carey built for me a couple of years ago.  I stole the airplane vent idea from Lane Anderson, who I think stole it from somebody else.  it really works great on a long trip when you start out early and it warms up along the way.

Notice that Carey heated and curved the plexi for a better fit.

One thing I wanted was a sold metal base so that the mounting pin stress was not directly on the plexi.  There are stainless steel strips inside and outside.

I also wanted the door to open and close easily, pretty good sealing (I mainly use them to keep the cold out in and out of storage and on long trips).

This shot was incomplete.  The Tenax fasteners at the rear of the window were moved inside and tabs were added rearward so that I could snap the top to the side curtains to avoid them pulling back at speed. (Becks have velcro in this area rather than snaps).

This was a first time for Carey, so definitely a development project.  They're very custom since every car and top is different.

We don't like you very much, Marty.

Thank you for that contribution to this thread Marty...duh!

You know Marty was not really serious about his little clip, he wasn't wearing his gloves (and probably not his shoes).

I'm here all day Carl.   

and probably not his pants.

Maybe this thread will grease some engineering/fabrication wheels amongst clever SOC's.

One of the stumbling blocks to a speedster window production is the slight differences necessitating custom made per vehicle.

WHAT IF... it were a two piece window with a fixed stationary rear half but a sliding front half that would snug up to any windshield posts with some sort of locking mechanism to keep it tight...but capable of sliding back 8 or 9 inches to reach an arm through to pay tolls...Huh?

I seem to recall seeing such a window configuration on a bug eyed Sprite.

Good one, Marty--coffee flew out my nose!

Tough crowd here sometimes.

Carl, really just get EZ-pass.

That's what I do when top up and curtains zipped in.

Marty, I laughed!

Loren, I've been playing with this idea as well. Neat little set up (not mine) on this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCiw63DO6C0

That's an awesome video! I've turned the prototype into the final product (almost). Still need to put in the Lexan.

Loren,

I like the idea.  i just finished custom fabricating side curtains for my CMC with an aluminum frame inside etc etc and wouldn't wish that on my worst enemy.  Lots of measuring and stitching.  Did you put spacers between the door panel and door shell to create the opening and then some sort of felt strip to allow it to move freely up and down?  And will the final material scratch from going up and down?  I've always wondered if it would make sense to make some sort of fixture that attaches to the windshield frame to allow the window material to be essentially straight so as to not have to be as concerned about the front end of the fitment.

Frank

Here's the design ... I drew it super quick, hopefully it makes sense.

Essentially, the rails are adhered to the door panel (not the door itself), so the door panel is a single all contained panel that bolts to the door and uses the mounts from the stock door panel. So, with this design the goal was to NOT drill, NOT cut, and allow for stock to be put back at any time.

Felt was used to reduce friction and scratching.

Forgot to write the brown square -- This is the mount for the strap.

Ah, you read my mind with respect to window tracks etc.  I adhere to the same philosophy of not drilling visible holes and making designs reversible.  Does the door handle spindle have to be extended/elongated sine you've increased the 'depth' of the door panel? Pardon the questions but I love the idea.

Thanks, Frank

Loren, seeing this setup years ago on a hot rod, I've thought about applying it to a Speedster. My Beck door handle is about 11" from the door top, so clearance shouldn't be an issue. My drawing indicates the use of a "pin lock & spring release" type mechanism allowing a set number of adjustments to the window. Like your idea, this setup is applied "over" the existing door card, and would protrude into the cabin not much more than the original door cap. The small Lexan wing/gusset would be affixed to the door rather than the windshield post. Restoration Specialties and Supply (http://www.restorationspecialties.com) offer a ton of fuzzy channels, weatherstrip and trim bits for the project.

That pin lock mechanism is awesome! If my pull strap doesn't work out, I've got a backup plan

@Frank -- I didn't have to extend the handle. But, then again, I don't have a grommet behind it. It's a tight fit; tighter than I would really want. I should eventually redo this design with the handle repositioned.