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Lane is correct.  My "CruZin" windows are tinted green, but it only shows on the edges when they are polished.

I'm also very interested in how this project works out.  So far, all of the issues that keep me from making the, frequently requested, full sized windows are being encountered.  It would be nice if, in the end, a one size fits all window is developed, but I'm pretty sure there will always be some level of customization required for each individual car.

Loren, you'll be surprised at how close to the pillar you can position the Lexan wing (in my test mockups anyway) even before adding any weatherstrip. When attached to the door, the swing-away factor makes it possible for the tight fit and also offers a rigid guide for the slide up window. I've decided not to do the "pull pin/lock" setup. Looked great on that street rod, but didn't seem an appropriate look for a speedster (IMHO). The strap idea seems less complicated and more in keeping with these cars. Keep up the good work!

Originally Posted by Monty - '12 Beck - South Bend, IN:

Loren, seeing this setup years ago on a hot rod, I've thought about applying it to a Speedster. My Beck door handle is about 11" from the door top, so clearance shouldn't be an issue. My drawing indicates the use of a "pin lock & spring release" type mechanism allowing a set number of adjustments to the window. Like your idea, this setup is applied "over" the existing door card, and would protrude into the cabin not much more than the original door cap. The small Lexan wing/gusset would be affixed to the door rather than the windshield post. Restoration Specialties and Supply (http://www.restorationspecialties.com) offer a ton of fuzzy channels, weatherstrip and trim bits for the project.

VERTICAL-SLIDER-WINDOW

I like this concept. One thing you'll have to keep in mind is without a guide channel above the door, like on a full frame door, when the window is up this design will have little support to keep the window from flexing in and out and probably won't hold a seal well with the top. Or it will be sucked outward by the wind as you drive. To provide stability, you need to make the window taller, so that enough of the bottom portion is still supported by the tracks inside the door, like in Loren's previous drawing. This could also be accomplished by adding metal legs on each end of the window's lower metal frame that would point downward and ride in the side tracks. Depending on how well the window is affixed to the frame, using a taller window may be the stronger of the two options.

Last edited by justinh

Justinh, as a concept, it does have some issues which is why I have since moved away from this approach and am now pursuing the "FiberSteel/sliding window" idea by using a pair of modified Midget/Sprite side curtains.  This has been covered on a few posts already. I like it because it retains the visual originality of the 356, gives easy ventilation options, provides more visibility and does not alter the original door panel design. The quality of my craftsmanship will never come close to that of FiberSteel, but as their cost per set approaches $2k, I can live with that.

(photo courtesy of FiberSteel)

side window pair

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