356 Oil Filter Cannister?

Picked up an OEM 356 oil cannister and lines (mounts on the shroud). I've seen them on a few replicas. Are they just for looks or do you actually plumb them in? Is case taped for full flow or do you use the modified oil pump cover? Or is a take-off on the oil cooler used?

Wolf, I'm sure you'll get better answers, but I've seen them mounted in the stock location and used as a vent can for your oil filler vent tube. (the bottom line from the Cannister would be capped off.) I suppose the valve cover vent lines would then go to another venting can mounted behind the firewall/bulkhead for a clean look.

On a 356, the canister/oil filter were not full flow. They were a bypass system that filtered (I can't remember the exact number) less then 10% of the oil. Look at the hose diameters. Not much oil thru those babies. To mount it on the fan shroud, ala 356s, you pretty much need to route your carb linkage behind the shroud.

FYI, different years and engine models used different color canisters.

Wolfgang, my CMC has it installed and I don't think whoever did it modified anything on the carbs linkage, my car has 2 Kadrons, I think you can see some pics in my files...

Mine is just for looks, as I have another more modern filter on the left rear of the car.

It probably fits since the Kad linkage goes down low.

Yeah I ran a hidden linkage at the rear of the shroud and fitted the canister on the fan. I did fit a stiffener plate on the inside of the shroud as its manufactured in quite thin material. I also fitted the original hoses which are available from klasse.com and ran it as a bypass system (also run full flow through a filter and cooler).

On my 912 motor it was bolted on all the way through the shroud. The bolts had spacers on them inside the shroud to prevent it from collapsing when you tightened it down.

Thanks to all of you for the suggestions. Now I will chase down those labels and get that engine looking good. When it is done I will post pics. Thanks, again.

I don't think the thin lines going to the filter are bad --- probably larger than those in the engine case. Thin short lines also keep the oil pressure high which is what you want lubing the bearings. Another advantage is it increase oil capacity by a quart.

"Now I will chase down those labels"

If you go to Google and click the "images" above Google Search, then type in what you're looking for, like "oil + decal" or "Engine + decal" or the like, you can find all of the stuff that you need.

Just click on "full sixe" and drag the image onto your desk top, sixe it in a painting program or whatever and print it out on your printer on gloss stock.

A blast of clear on the image side and spray adhesive on the other . . . and done.

http://proformancemotoring.com/herbie.htm
Here is a picture of one I did on a 1915cc motor. It originally was functioning but the hoses leaked so we blocked it off instead of buying the hoses.

Looks great! Just like the old production photoss I've seen of the Super 90 equipped car!!!

Here are a couple of shots of some of my "computer" lables in ACTION!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/Mcoil2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/Mcoil1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/Cfram.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/Ceinglass.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/Ccomplete.jpg

These pieces are for a fake Abarth engine that I'm putting together. All because I found a rare and genuine Abarth air cleaner and louvered rear deck lid . . . I'm building a whole "phantom" car around two silly pieces of metal . . .

Wow, great work TC!...