356 Speedster Replica Windshield Issue

I set the rubber rearward of the windshield frame, I do this on new installs,  it does move the windshield post back a bit. I'll be in Florida for a month in Feb- March :~)

I also put the rubber behind the bottom aluminum piece, pressing against it.

@Alan Merklin posted:

I set the rubber rearward of the windshield frame, I do this on new installs,  it does move the windshield post back a bit. I'll be in Florida for a month in Feb- March :~)

I did the same as Alan and Michael described above.  It fits much better and is easier to install.  Also, the black caulk below will help seal and adhere the rubber to the aluminum base.  It can also be used to finish the seams at the corners where the two rubber pieces meet.  The caulk cures to a flat black that closely resembles the rubber.

https://www.dap.com/products-p...nts/latex/alex-plus/

BTW, good "looking" nails. 

@Richard Gregor

After futzing with a windshield installation for over two hours and not getting the glass to fit while getting the bottom rubber to fit over the lip of the bottom trim piece, I finally gave up and used Alan's method, which works very well and had everything installed in 30 minutes or less.  I also used the flat-black silicon caulk to seal and dress off everything and that works well, too.

Remember, too, that when assembled right, the glass almost floats in the frames - The center support rod should be finger tight plus 1/2 - 3/4 turn, no more.

I sent you a PM with complete instructions from Alan and me.

Gordon

After the installation,  I let it " rest / settle" for 24 hours then lightly re-snug ( is that a word?)  the posts a second time and lastly the center rod again.

Thanks all for the idea of placing the lower glass rubber against the aluminum cowl frame! Now, onto the next hurdle! How do I calculate where to drill the holes to mount the top windshield frame posts? Should I remove the glass from the frame or is there a standard guide to use? I sense I'm getting outside my comfort zone. Anyone located in Florida that can assist?

Years ago after receiving my CMC kit - I called them with question on where to drill for the posts.  They faxed me a rough drawing - I added the measurements and my cat added the stains.

windshield post spacing | SpeedsterOwners.com - 356 Speedsters, 550 Spyders, Replicas and more

The CMC hole locations only work if the aluminum piece is in the same place as on a CMC.

I have available a "post locator as a loaner for t he cost of round trip postage, it's two windshield posts that I cut off the bottom 1/2"  "female pipe" piece  and added a screw on the base of the post. All you do is place to post against the windshield frame and mark where to screw come to rest on the fiberglass cowl that is you hole center and be sure to drill the hole and the same degree angle as the windshield post base.  If anyone has access to 3D printer this would be a great time to make some for others to use.

^ As always, a brilliant solution devised by @Alan Merklin!

It's true that we don't know if Richard's bottom trim piece is already riveted down to the body.  There is a specific relationship between the bottom trim and the placement of the corner posts.  @Richard Gregor have you reviewed the instruction set I sent you in a private message?  Lots of good info in there and it tells you how to get the placement right.  Check your private messages.

Wolfgang's template works (I've used it, too - Print it full-size on an 8-1/2" X 11" or A4 sheet, stains and all ) but you would be working backwards by positioning the corner posts first, and THEN positioning the bottom trim piece.  Nothing wrong with that - It works just fine that way.   @Alan Merklin's pair of "locator" corner posts will make final positioning easier, too.

The windshield was in place (although cracked) when I purchased the car. I had the post holes filled in prior to painting because the holes were excessively large. The painter re- installed the cowl frame back into the original spot after painting.  It is my assumption that everything should line up once I get the post holes drilled in their proper location. I sense this may have been a good idea now, considering the new placement of the lower rubber frame!????

Not knowing was materials and how the post holes was filled in, I would make a metal plate that fits the fiberglass cowl area under the windshield post so that when the piece of pipe is slid over the post the plate spreads the load of the tightened windshield post . I can only imagine without the plate in place, securing the post and having the body work repair crack.

That ^^^^

Yes Danny, I agree. And thank you for the follow up! A good thing is that while the original holes were larger than needed they were never outside the "post" area. But I had them filled in because you never know what might change along the way. I was thinking of adding a large rubber washer (maybe 1/8 to 1/4 thick) under there to help dissipate the pressure!? Thoughts?

Another question as I look at internet pics of the windshield, does the lower rubber gasket cover the entire bottom of the windshield? It goes all the way into the posts. Then I trim the top rubber gasket to match it? Nowhere near that part of the project yet but wanted to consider everything as things pop up. Makes sense!

If it were me, I’d drill a hole the size of the post in a piece of thin strap steel say, 1”x 3” and bend it roughly to fit inside the top of the fender where the  post goes through.

  After 2 days of After 2 days of measuring and calculating, the windshield is in! What we did is this, we cut the bottom rubber as shown in the pic. The rubber on the left was not cut and the rubber on the right was cut. We removed the portion of the rubber just behind where it would sit on top of the cowl aluminum frame so it would offer less resistance and flex/bend better when it was tilted into place. This enabled it (lower rubber) to form better on the dash side as well. We mounted it on top of the cowl as it should be. Windshield pic to follow when completed, cleaned, rubber trimmed, etc! I'm taking the advice of letting it sit for a day or 2 and gently tightening a little more - letting the windshield float. Thanks to all for the pointers, advice etc. Greatly appreciated!

Here is a picture of the finished windshield installation and car. Thanks everyone for the installing help!

OK! Got 'er done!

Well done, Richard!

@Richard Gregor posted:

Here is a picture of the finished windshield installation and car. Thanks everyone for the installing help!

Hi , Can you let me know the model of the HID helo headlights you installed?

thanks chris

Hello Chris, when I remember where I sourced them I will let you know. It should be somewhere in my records. Stay tuned! RIchG

Chris, I bought those lights from ebay. There was a company called Octane Lighting. More to follow as I dig thru. RIchG

Phone number is (855) 962-8263 out of Simi Valley. White Halo Headlight. Let me know if you need any other info? RichG

Octane lighting?

@Richard Gregor posted:

Phone number is (855) 962-8263 out of Simi Valley. White Halo Headlight. Let me know if you need any other info? RichG

Many thanks!

Something to be aware of (I didn't see it mentioned above), Richard (and anyone else new with a Speedster)- don't let anyone use the windshield for support getting in or out of your beautiful Speedster, or you will be replacing it again.  It won't take much to crack it.  Al

You know, I just went back and re-read how Rich modified that lower rubber and thought it was a great approach and added it to my book of tips and tricks.

Well done, Rich!

That's how the windshield cracked prior to my ownership.

Thanks Gordon!

Remember, if they don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy!

@ALB posted:

Something to be aware of (I didn't see it mentioned above), Richard (and anyone else new with a Speedster)- don't let anyone use the windshield for support getting in or out of your beautiful Speedster, or you will be replacing it again.  It won't take much to crack it.  Al

Or Spyder...it takes even more finesse and planning to get people in and out, especially keeping their hands off the windshield!

But that upper corner of the windshield is so handy!  It just begs to be a grad-handle.

I dunno' - there's an enormous difference between using the windshield to steady yourself, and hoisting yourself out by it. I've been using it in the former manner for 20 years, am built like a silverbacked ape, and haven't cracked a windshield yet.

@Stan Galat posted:

I dunno' - there's an enormous difference between using the windshield to steady yourself, and hoisting yourself out by it. I've been using it in the former manner for 20 years, am built like a silverbacked ape, and haven't cracked a windshield yet.

Yeah, but you are an incredibly evolved silverbacked Ape who understands the difference...