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VW Thing fan shroud is shorter and flat across the top.  Then there is one even shorter called the "Puma" fan shroud.  Pretty rare, but I see them pop up on the Samba occasionally and I've even seen a few online store advertise them.  Google: VW Puma fan shroud.

Just curious, what kit/chassis has the motor sitting so high?

Have you measured for carb fitment? and then you'll have to look at exhaust fitment or a custom exhaust or cutting the body to clear tips...  (I'm just guessing based on a little experience building these)

IMG_2974IMG_2975The transmission might be raised in order to lower the car with less camber?It’s a common modification to see nowadays on lowered Volkswagens. They raise from one inch to 4 inches. Pretty obvious mod though looking at pan. Check height of trans compared to stock pan since it’s a custom frame and it may have been built that way. Pics of frame will help.

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Last edited by LeadPedal

I've ran into shroud to deck lid clearance on a few projects I've bought, it was the fault of someone shortening the chassis and not rewelding it back absolutely on a horizontal plane and that pushed the engine shroud up too high .   Sometimes as Greg mentioned you can flip the L & R hinges to the opposite sides and that allows fora bit more room, there was one speedster many years ago I did something with trans mounts that was suggested by Jack at Bug Stuff Inc. he supplied the parts needed and it worked by lowering the trans -  engine a bit .

Last edited by Alan Merklin

First, the response to my problem has been amazing. This is the first time that I’ve used a forum like this. An update; the Puma shroud is not the answer. The only one that makes sense is lowering the engine/transmission. I had moved the hinges out, which eliminated them as an issue. It is now the lid itself. Attached are pictures of the mounting system. Any ideas as to how to lower everything would be appreciated.

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@ChasR posted:

Correct it is a custom chassis and it is hitting the rain shield. If left in place(not lowered), the carb will need to be changed out to dual and the fix for the exhaust will have to be addressed. A two inch drop would help to solve a lot of issues.

@ChasR posted:

Does anyone know of a company that supplies a modified transmission mount that would allow it to be dropped an inch or so? Thanks

I'm not sure what you mean by "correct". Are you saying it's a Kitman, and you bought the David Barrett custom frame? If so, I'd contact David to see what he'd recommend.

If not, then no -- I know of nobody with a dropped trans mount. Several places make RAISED mounts to get you right where you are right now (which coincidentally, is exactly where you want to be if you have a swing axle, at least IMHO).

I know you aren't asking for advice -- you're asking specific questions, but I've already answered to the best of my ability. But if you don't mind me saying so: we often disagree, but in this instance Wolfang and I agree 100% -- your first impulse is the direction I'd be headed. A Puma fan shroud would clear, and might be the easiest way out of the woods. A 911-style would as well, but it'd be long money.

I'd cut the rain tray.

Hi, sorry to throw something else into the mix, but are you sure that the body is mounted on the tube chassis correctly? Are the body and chassis a matched pair from a kit supplier? If so, there should be specific height related mounting points between the two which should set the body in the correct position relative to the chassis. Which kit do you have, and which chassis?

Sorry, just re read and noticed you don't know who made the chassis.

Is there any way of you determining that the body is sitting correctly on the chassis? It wouldn't take much to cause a fouling condition if the body was low, or slightly angled down at the back.

If you can rule that out, that'll help with any potential tyre clearance issues later.

Last edited by Spadders
@ChasR posted:

First, the response to my problem has been amazing. This is the first time that I’ve used a forum like this. An update; the Puma shroud is not the answer. The only one that makes sense is lowering the engine/transmission. I had moved the hinges out, which eliminated them as an issue. It is now the lid itself. Attached are pictures of the mounting system. Any ideas as to how to lower everything would be appreciated.

Hey Chas can you be more specific about what is hitting what?

You said it was the fan shroud but then said the carb/air cleaner. If the fan shroud is not hitting and it's just the carb you're fine.

Those pics of the undercarriage are good. There are "mid mount" transaxle mounts that could be modded to lower the front of the trans. They're cheap and easy to work on if you can weld (I made one out of junk for my car). BUT.

That only works if you

1. Have a (or can make) properly located hole for the tail shaft to go through and meet the shift rod; and

2. can lower the back (big) (engine) mount as well. Putting the front mount down will lever your engine up higher in the bay.

So.

Looking at that big aftermarket motor mount plate it appears that it too could be worked to lower the engine a bit. Two inches I'd doubt, but maybe an inch—depending on what point those gigundus frame horn bolts would interfere with the upper motor mount nuts. It's just a matter of relocating the holes above where they are now.

As others advised: the easy button here is to get a dremel or Rotozip and slice away the bits of the rain tray that interfere. The slightly-less-easy-button following that would involved the purchase of some fiberglass mesh and resin, and reshaping the tray to divert water and supply air while maintaining the clearances you need.

That's a fiddly job but not bad if you remember your gloves and mask.

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