Anyone have these that they'd be willing to rent / sell?
Thxs
Doug
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Anyone have these that they'd be willing to rent / sell?
Thxs
Doug
Thxs
Doug
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html
It's not "Rigid" quality, but it's 14 bucks, and you get a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" tap and die. It comes in a handy little box.
Harbor Freight, comin' to getcha'.
It's not "Rigid" quality, but it's 14 bucks, and you get a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" tap and die. It comes in a handy little box.
Harbor Freight, comin' to getcha'.
I think I'd find a good machinist and pay him to do it. Too easy to ruin a good case. Be sure to not over tighten the fitting - easy to crack the remaining alloy (thank good ness for JB Weld).
Seriously Wolfgang? It's not building a rocket- it's a threaded hole, man.
You also need 1/4" plug/taps for oil pump and case journal. Then if you want to make sure all the chips and junks are out of oil galleries there are many more pressed in plugs (~10) that need to be pulled, tapped and plugged. Doing this enables you to properly complete cleaning job - takes just takes a chip or two to toast a $800 crank.
One man's thoughts on tapping for full-flow (and pictures, too!):
http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html
http://www.huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html
Scott, good Tech article w/good pics. Wolfgang, I'll be super careful to keep shavings out! I ended up just ordering a 37/64 drill bit & 3/8 NPT tap off Amazon-- $26 total for both, so not bad....way cheaper than the Gene Berg total. I've already got the filter & cooler mounted on the Speedster, and have SS lines cut to fit / will be using blue Aeroquip / Russell fittings. I've re-read the Speedster Tech article on using constant air pressure to prevent shavings from entering the drilled and tapped gallery, and I've got a plugged 30MM oil pump already to go in. I think I'll practice on a disassembled spare case I've got and get comfortable with ensuring that NO shavings remain in the oil galley(s)by using the air pressure setup even though the case is disassembled just so i can verify. Should be a good Winter project with the engine coming out in a few weeks. Then the following Fall I plan on doing a big block CB engine kit with a new ( pre-drilled )alum case. Thxs for the website!
Doug
Doug
I've been off-line for 2 weeks, so I didn't catch you before you bought your drill/tap - sorry! I would have sent mine up.
I did mine in the car, using air pressure to insure no chips went inside the galley (in fact, I wrote an article about it on speedstershop - maybe that's what you read.) Anyway, tapping an aluminum case really isn't rocket science, as Stan said, and if you don't have the Berg tech article, just thread the tap in til it goes about 1-1/2 to two turns, then back it out one turn. Continue by threading in 1/2 to 3/4 turn beyond tap resistance, then back out a turn and continue. That way you'll not be stressing the case with the chip build-up and the threads will be clean in the end.
Doing it in the car with the air pressure applied to the sending unit hole, I didn't bother (or worry about) the galleys and passages, nor did I pull any other plugs. Put 40 pounds of air pressure to it and you won't have any chips inside.
gn
I did mine in the car, using air pressure to insure no chips went inside the galley (in fact, I wrote an article about it on speedstershop - maybe that's what you read.) Anyway, tapping an aluminum case really isn't rocket science, as Stan said, and if you don't have the Berg tech article, just thread the tap in til it goes about 1-1/2 to two turns, then back it out one turn. Continue by threading in 1/2 to 3/4 turn beyond tap resistance, then back out a turn and continue. That way you'll not be stressing the case with the chip build-up and the threads will be clean in the end.
Doing it in the car with the air pressure applied to the sending unit hole, I didn't bother (or worry about) the galleys and passages, nor did I pull any other plugs. Put 40 pounds of air pressure to it and you won't have any chips inside.
gn
Gordon, it WAS your article I read, but went I went back to it the other day, I couldn't open it?
Another few questionS
(1) When you did yours: When you replaced the oil pump with a "plugged-full flow" oil pump, did you also have to put a plug in the case where the stock oil pump outlet is?
(2) Does the full flow oil pump effectively block that oil galley from letting case pressure from bleeding back past the oil pump case and back into the sump? If you look at the link Stan sent earlier, it shows a plug in that galley right off the oil pump, but he had the case apart....not sure, but it looks like I can fit a tap in there as one of the pics show - but no room for a drill. Did you do this plug, too?
Thxs
Doug
Another few questionS
(1) When you did yours: When you replaced the oil pump with a "plugged-full flow" oil pump, did you also have to put a plug in the case where the stock oil pump outlet is?
(2) Does the full flow oil pump effectively block that oil galley from letting case pressure from bleeding back past the oil pump case and back into the sump? If you look at the link Stan sent earlier, it shows a plug in that galley right off the oil pump, but he had the case apart....not sure, but it looks like I can fit a tap in there as one of the pics show - but no room for a drill. Did you do this plug, too?
Thxs
Doug
Questions, questions!!! And I just got back here from a Thanksgiving Vacation!!!!
OK, here goes:
(1) When you did yours: When you replaced the oil pump with a "plugged-full flow" oil pump, did you also have to put a plug in the case where the stock oil pump outlet is?
No. Next question...
(2) Does the full flow oil pump effectively block that oil galley from letting case pressure from bleeding back past the oil pump case and back into the sump?
Yes.
Un-Numbered Bonus Question:
If you look at the link Stan sent earlier, it shows a plug in that galley right off the oil pump, but he had the case apart....not sure, but it looks like I can fit a tap in there as one of the pics show - but no room for a drill. Did you do this plug, too?
No, you don't have to plug the passage in the case - only put a plug into the outlet of the oil pump and then use the oil pump cover for the outlet. The pump housing-to-case clearance (not much, BTW, otherwise it would be bleeding oil pressure to the sump under normal, non-full-flow conditions) will prevent galley seepage back into the sump, so forgetaboutit. You can either plug the pump, OR plug the case. You don't need both (but I prefer to plug the pump...It's easier).
BTW: Even though it's a bit pricey, invest in a Berg pressure regulating oil pump cover. It'll hold your output pressure to under 125 psi so you will never detonate a spin-on oil filter. I think that Stan would agree with me that pressure under 125 psi in your oil lines is a good thing.......Especially when you go out there to start it during 20-below winter nights. Why do people DO this?????
Gordon
The Speedstah Guy from snuggly-warm Beaufort
OK, here goes:
(1) When you did yours: When you replaced the oil pump with a "plugged-full flow" oil pump, did you also have to put a plug in the case where the stock oil pump outlet is?
No. Next question...
(2) Does the full flow oil pump effectively block that oil galley from letting case pressure from bleeding back past the oil pump case and back into the sump?
Yes.
Un-Numbered Bonus Question:
If you look at the link Stan sent earlier, it shows a plug in that galley right off the oil pump, but he had the case apart....not sure, but it looks like I can fit a tap in there as one of the pics show - but no room for a drill. Did you do this plug, too?
No, you don't have to plug the passage in the case - only put a plug into the outlet of the oil pump and then use the oil pump cover for the outlet. The pump housing-to-case clearance (not much, BTW, otherwise it would be bleeding oil pressure to the sump under normal, non-full-flow conditions) will prevent galley seepage back into the sump, so forgetaboutit. You can either plug the pump, OR plug the case. You don't need both (but I prefer to plug the pump...It's easier).
BTW: Even though it's a bit pricey, invest in a Berg pressure regulating oil pump cover. It'll hold your output pressure to under 125 psi so you will never detonate a spin-on oil filter. I think that Stan would agree with me that pressure under 125 psi in your oil lines is a good thing.......Especially when you go out there to start it during 20-below winter nights. Why do people DO this?????
Gordon
The Speedstah Guy from snuggly-warm Beaufort
Thxs Gordon!
I already had the berg limiting pressure cover on the old pump!
( extra points )
Agree: easier to plug the pump and leave the oil pump output galley as is; however, it's gotta be leaking "some" oil pressure past the pump body and back into the sump...probably not enought to bother with given a new high volume Maxi 30 oil pump going in. Just don't want any oil leaks past the pump body gasket.
Just just filled the oil tank in the house: $2.65/gallon! Send some of that Beaufort mild weather up here to the Northeast. Is the Speedster Tech article ( full flowing a case )now able to be opened?
Thxs for the quick response!
Doug
I already had the berg limiting pressure cover on the old pump!
( extra points )
Agree: easier to plug the pump and leave the oil pump output galley as is; however, it's gotta be leaking "some" oil pressure past the pump body and back into the sump...probably not enought to bother with given a new high volume Maxi 30 oil pump going in. Just don't want any oil leaks past the pump body gasket.
Just just filled the oil tank in the house: $2.65/gallon! Send some of that Beaufort mild weather up here to the Northeast. Is the Speedster Tech article ( full flowing a case )now able to be opened?
Thxs for the quick response!
Doug
I too have a Berg pressure regulating cover on my pump, it's the way to go.
Jaycee makes an oil filter base that has a third port with an 80 psi relief. If the pressure goes above set-point, it bypasses oil back to the sump. No more blown up oil filters and dual relief nonsense. I've got one.
Stan.
Is this a simple bolt on device or is there drilling and taping that needs to be done? Do you have any pictures of it installed?
Troy
Is this a simple bolt on device or is there drilling and taping that needs to be done? Do you have any pictures of it installed?
Troy
Troy-
If you've got a remote filter , it replaces your existing filter mount. You may have to make up a little adapter bracket, and you'll need to drill and tap a port for the return line to your engine. But if you've got an extended sump, that's a good place to connect the return line (before you put it on the car, so you can clean it up afterward).
Here's a link to the part on Jaycee's site:
http://www.jayceevw.com/products_pg-2
It's the "Oil Control System" for $140.
If you've got a remote filter , it replaces your existing filter mount. You may have to make up a little adapter bracket, and you'll need to drill and tap a port for the return line to your engine. But if you've got an extended sump, that's a good place to connect the return line (before you put it on the car, so you can clean it up afterward).
Here's a link to the part on Jaycee's site:
http://www.jayceevw.com/products_pg-2
It's the "Oil Control System" for $140.
Thanks Stan. Now I get it. The filter screws on to the opposite side of that manifold. I do have and external filter and a sump, so it looks pretty simple. Thanks again.
Troy
Troy
So what's the take on the CB Performance Maxi3 Pump (part #1798? According to writeup - it eliminates the "old fashion" drilling and tapping of the case. The cover is finned and has both and in&out ports. Aluminum alloy matches expansion of engine case. ~$50.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=195
I've seen numerous cases that were tapped only to have the fitting leak and then be over tightened which cracks the engine case --- hence JB Weld fix.
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=195
I've seen numerous cases that were tapped only to have the fitting leak and then be over tightened which cracks the engine case --- hence JB Weld fix.
I believe that's what I have, and I have had no problems of any kind. Since it came on the engine from the beginning I have not before/after data.