3rd attempt at windshield installation

I got a bottom rubber from Special editions when I replaced my windshield....    Double check the fastener locations on the bottom retainer strip and move any that come close to the glass's edge....  Thats why I had mine crack....

Here are a couple shots of mine.

I had Henry at IM take me through the windshield installation process over the phone the other day.  He said you can shove as hard as you want on the edge of the glass when getting it into the rubber channel in frame and it can take it.  I haven't gotten around to it yet, but how did you break 2 windshields?  I want to be sure I don't follow in your footsteps.

Both times the glass broke with I was trying to adjust the rubber on the edge with a screwdriver.

I should have learned after the first time. I thought I was being more careful the second time.

Henry advised me to use a plastic picnic knife to get the glass into the seals.  He also said some Windex can help although he advise against soapy water as it can lead to a slippery slope.

I ban all metal tools from my shop whenever I'm doing a windshield.  Seems to work.  Popsicle sticks are OK.  Must be doing something right - I've done six of them now with nary a crack.  I use a lot of Dawn dish washing liquid, though, and tend to get pretty grubby during the process.

The guy who helped me with my top gave me a nylon tool intended for the purpose.

 

Speaking about Popsicle sticks, a long time ago I bought a box of 500 tongue depressors. They are great for a lot of things and you can split them lengthwise if you need something more narrow.

I worked in the glass tempering industry for over 14 yrs.....    NEVER EVER allow glass to contact make contact with anything as hard or harder than its self....  Always store it in the vertical position when possible and support it on wooden blocks or a padded surface....  

Any nick in the edge of a glass pane will be highly prone to failure when placed under stress, as in installation....  Laminated glass is tuff stuff, but does have its limits....  I usually fit the rubber to the wind shield top and then install the top frame and then put the base gasket on with a little RTV and allow an over night dry....   Then I place the whole package on the car and work the base gasket wit  a plastic knitting needle...   Just my .02

Mike fly my ares out to you and have a cold Coors Lite and a prime rib ready (medium well thank you) and it will happen ...alternate method is to feel free to call me anytime .. ~Alan

 

What airport do you fly out of?

Maybe Chinese food like you have never had it would be a good substitute for prime rib.

On a related note. One problem I had in the past is getting the driver side bolt into the post. It took me 8 hours last time to get the bolt started because of the reduced clearance caused by me reinforcing the thin fiberglass there. I wore the skin off my hand turning it trying to start the bolt.

I bought some 12 point bolts to use there and on my A1 exhaust. They use a smaller wrench than hex head bolts. On the A1 it is hard to get a wrench on the bolt closest to the rear of the car.

Mike   I'll suggest you sub the 12 points with Allen head bolts this will give you better access :~)

Alan, I thought of that and bought some allen head bolts.

 

I couldn't get a wrench into the opening because I filled the area behind the steel tube to keep the carpet flush with the tube. The filled area extends to the bottom edge of the dash.

 

With the hex head bolt I had to use an open end wrench (stubby combo.). It was a bit hard to rotate the wrench enough to move it to a new position. With the 12 pt. I will have to rotate it half as much to get a new grip on the bolt.