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Motor/tranny mounts

That's what popped into mind first but wanted opinions. Gotta get it up in the air and see. 

Thanks, Bill.

You are welcome, but lets make sure that's it.

Let us know if that was it.

I'm thinking motor/tranny mounts, too, but just to be clear, which pedal is moving away from your foot - The accelerator or the clutch?

 

I wouldn't be driving it any til you see what's going on, either.....

Accelerator. I only touch the clutch during shifting, but I'll go out and see if it moves as well.

If I do this, aren't I better off getting all the engine and tranny mounts replaced. Parts are cheap.

A strand breaking on the accelerator cable?  Bring it on by and we'll knock it out.  Haven't seen ya for a bit.  We can romp on beach and send Rich and Carl a picture of HOT weather here (almost turned AC back on).

If you go to Wolfgang's, make sure to take some shots of his car.  We're all dying to see how it's coming ;-)

Yeah, had the car out twice in the last couple of days. Too nice! Mowed, edged and weeded as well. Not much of that going on where I used to live in Peoria.

 

I also noticed that there is movement in the fitting that the accelerator cable passes through into the shroud when I rev it by hand......

YEAH  what Tom said !

 

 

"If I do this, aren't I better off getting all the engine and tranny mounts replaced. Parts are cheap."

 

Too true - and there are only three of them which cost a total of about $30 bucks.

 

If the motor mounts look OK and nothing is radically moving around back/under there, I would look to see if the accelerator cable tube is still welded to the pan/frame.  It sounds like the throttle cable tube is floating, rather than being anchored, but without being there it's tough to see what the heck is going on.  The throttle cable has a Bowden tube associated with it, just like the clutch cable.

 

Oh, and the throttle cable conduit (the tube through the fan shroud) shouldn't be moving back and forth with the cable movement, either.

 

If it's drivable, scoot on over to Greg's and figure it out over a few beers....

Thanks, Gordon,

These accelerator cable guides are nice - billet roller throttle cable guide

 

Like Speedstah Jewelry, I swear.....

Greg, nice find and it looks like what I need.

Website?

Here is one, that looks good>>>>

 

http://www.jbevw.com/products

The red poly absorber on the tranny mount - bottom passenger side - a 1" triangular piece is torn through and can be moved around. That piece is still attached but not by much.  

Assume your VS is swing axle?  Seems IRS can be done without removing engine but not easily.  Not so apparently with Swing axle.  Those poly ones look nice but crack easily so avoid except maybe for anti-sway bar bushings.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ichDEpIQ8

 

 

Looks like that is what happened. It dried out and cracked. It appears to be one of those EMPI ones in a red/orange color. I saw that video last night. 

 

Mine is a swing axle and it doesn't appear to be much of a job to change it, but I will defer to the experience of anybody who might have done this already.

 

 

Bob, I did the job as described above ,in the u-tube video that Greg posted.  The engine was out and I loosened up the bolts at the spring plate and pulled the tranny back with a ratchet strap to the rear frame.

 

 

The rear transmission mounts were bolted through the bell housing. The engine was removed anyway so those were easy to get at. You might be able to do the front one with the engine in if you have enough room between the engine and the rear part of the frame.  Luck.

Thanks, Al.

 

My Haynes manual says to just pry the area apart without removing the engine and replace it. No reference to swing arm vs. IRS.

In a Bug!

Yeah, Bill, different.

The mount is in worse shape than I thought. Two pics, stuff in the way and the mount itself

I bet "WE" could slip another red polly one in there for the April '16 get together.  The issue with getting the original one in is the metal attached plate and studs (plus alignment peg).  I bet the polly one would drop out and with just a little nudge a new one would go back.  It would be good for another 3+ years.  

You should be able to replace that transaxle nose mount without pulling the engine using the pry bar method and be sure to replace with a good quality rubber mount. The nose mount is almost sure to fail again, no matter what kind, if you do not install a proper transaxle mount. A good choice is the Gene Berg trans mount. Most applications use their part #GB643. I installed one in my car in '97, I think, using some fabricated teflon and smaller rubber mounts for more support and have not had any problems with mounts since. Also look into getting a "kafer bar", which ties the upper shock mounts and frame horn ends together for more support. That would really eliminate any funny cable feel. Good Luck!

 

 

From personal experiences, I wouldn't use those red mounts for anything especially in place of a steering shaft rag joint. OEM stock rubber is the way to go, they used them on millions of cars,  ya know:~)

Cip1 has the extra heavy duty ones with a lifetime replacement guarantee if you also use their comparable rear mounts as well. Cheap date, under $100.00.

 

I have the red ones at the rear mounts as well. 

 

 

Dave - Here's the OEM front trans mount.  That new support is probably as much to protect the rather costly nose cone.

 

 

 

Thanks for that, Bob. Are yours rubber or urethane etc. ? Any part number from CIP1 and how long / how many miles have you had this installed , please ? Any idea of hp of your engine? Just trolling for more info...what tranny do you have and any idea of what type of clutch disc. I'm grasping for any info to make a decent decision on which way I'll go.

 

I'm not a fan of most of the Urethane engine/transaxle mounts for the reason you've seen - they get brittle and self-destruct in just a few years.

 

I asked Carey Hines what they use on their Beck cars and he recommended Rhino mounts, so I got a set of those from Air-cooled.net.  Can't remember the cost, but remember it was reasonable.

 

Another alternative is the HD engine mounts from Gene Berg.  I suspect that they're tougher rubber made for Type 2 (buses) and are supposed to be really good.

 

I also installed a Gene Berg mid-transaxle mount and a Kafer bar.  I can't remember what you have for an engine, Bob, but if it's a Subaru then the Berg mid-transaxle mount would be a wise addition.  It can certainly be installed with everything in the car, but be aware that there is a small amount of welding required that any decent muffler shop could do in five minutes.  I stuck with the rubber snubbers supplied with the kit, thinking that the Teflon version that Joel used might transfer more engine vibration to the frame.  My set-up seems fine and is working out well for me.

 

Let me know of any questions and I'll try to help.

 

gn

David:

 

Those red ones must be urethane, and probably from EMPI. I have owned the car about 4 years and I am running a 2110 cc stroker, freeway flyer trans. I have not dug into the drive train and so I am not certain on the clutch. 

 

I inspect the bottom of the car pretty routinely and didn't notice this problem 45 days ago. I started to sense the problem about 3 weeks ago, but it was gradual until the last week. Drove the car twice and it became clear that something was amiss.

 

I intend to go with the heavy duty rubber mount from Cip1 at this point as it sounds like it is just about bullet proof. I also respect Dr. Clocks opinion on this one. I have yet to inspect the rear mounts but they may need replacing as well. If I need to do that I may just have the engine pulled and see how the clutch etc. looks..... this sounds like the old "well as long as I'm in there I might as well"...etc. etc. 

Dune buggy guys use solid (steel) mounts BUT they aren't concerned with noise and vibration transfer.  

 

Bob's is air cooled dual carb T1.

Gordon:

Thanks, I'll look at the Berg stuff and the Rhino mounts as well.

 

If I need to replace the rear mounts I suppose that pulling the engine is unavoidable?

I also have a transaxle strap kit in place. You can see the loops around the frame horns in the first pic.

I think it will be unavoidable, Bob. Here's a pic of mine I took today. You can see the rear mount nuts are clearly inside the tranny housing.

 

A keen eye will also note that I had to clearance the stock rear mounts to make space for the Kennedy adapter plate mount nuts. That is outside the tranny housing, lower left and right.

 

An even keener eye will note small specks of metal in the lower tranny housing. It seems my IM Hi-Tork starter is chewing away at the teeth of my Kennedy Flywheel ring gear. Not exactly a good thing.

Misery loves company, David. Thanks.