550 just delivered- help identify this noise

UMMMH, im not seeing it and Im not signing into anything to see it..good luck.

Sorry @barncobob I made the post public on YouTube so it should be visible now.

thanks.

First off Chappy, congratulations on the Spyder.

Just confirm the noise speeds up and slows down as the car speeds up and slows down? And you don't hear it while parked either? Definitely sounds like something hitting a piece of metal. Based on the sound it sounds like something hitting a pipe or other hollow object because I can hear what sounds like an echo sound. If it were an engine based banging noise it would happen while the car was idling.

I would get under there, without raising the car, and see if there is something that is rotating on the hub that is hitting the exhaust pipe. Maybe a stick or wire got caught up in something. If you have hubcaps pop it off to make sure there isn't a rock or something in trapped in the hubcap.

It’s a 550 Spyder.  No jack or lift needed, just yet.

Open up the rear clamshell and look around on the passenger side around the wheel for whatever is flapping around in there and hitting against the frame.  I suspect it will be obvious when you get over there and look for it.  Take some photos of what’s going on and report back and we’ll try to identify the problem.

It sounds like something with the rear. I'd DEFINITELY do as Gordon suggested, but it seems to me it's a loose rear axle nut. Maybe not, but check them. They need about 250 ft. lbs. PLUS.

If you have disc brakes with studs, one stud could simply be a little too long.

So the driver side is solid and not able to move- this is what I’m suspecting is the culprit?

https://youtube.com/shorts/lq2pZunt76M?feature=share

there isn’t anything else remotely loose or able to rub as everything looks solid and as it should.

@Chappy No unfortunately not. The cotter pin merely prevents the nut from backing off.

You need to remove the cotter pin, then take a 36mm socket on a breaker bar(with a pipe for leverage) and see how tight it is.

Easy way: use a real wheel chock(a curved one, not a block of wood) under the tire and a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I've broken 1/2" drive breaker bars doing this multiple times.

@DannyP posted:

If you have disc brakes with studs, one stud could simply be a little too long.

I was going to say I have had a similar noise with drum brakes because one wheel stud was too far into the drum and hitting the show.

Well. No idea how this happened. But I’m assuming it’s certainly an issue,

I’m supposed to drive about 100 miles round trip tomorrow  to DMV, is this safe?

https://youtu.be/Q4VPYMuFTpY

Man. The entire inner rim is pretty bent and mangled. I hadn’t noticed it on delivery but the ticking/clanging noise started on the first ride.

Haven’t driven it hard, not sure what could’ve caused that much damage.

it’s in a few spots where it’s bent and shredded

https://youtu.be/Q4VPYMuFTpY

I bet the brake caliper is hitting somehow. Take off the wheel and post a picture of the inner rim and caliper. It will be obvious to whatever is hitting will be chewed up as well.

@LeadPedal unfortunately I have every single item packed and/or moved into my new house’s garage that we are moving into over the next few days so I can’t get it up  right now for closer inspection. I don’t think it’s safe to drive which is a huge bummer. As it looks like it’s going to need a new rim at the very least from this vantage point. And that without seeing what other components have been damaged.

Make sure you reach out to @RoyP as soon as possible so you can loop him in on the issue. I can't see how that would have happened after you took delivery and drove it around the block. It's possible the previous drivers didn't notice it due to the ambient noise pollution, but either way it needs to be remedied.

This may be a stupid suggestion, but if you have hubcaps a lug nut or bolt (depending on how you're configured) could have come loose and be flopping around in there.

Looks like you have a knackered drum skin. I was gonna guess that because mine rubs just a hair on that wheel too. I don't think it's as bad as yours but I'm sure gonna check...

The drum skin is just an aluminum pie plate made to look like a proper 550 brake drum from back in the day, to hide the fact that you have modern(ish) discs. Its function is decorative. You can remove it with no ill effects.

UPDATE: That is the noise on my car, you can see where the inside of the drum skin is wearing away on the edge where it just kisses the top of the caliper.

I'll check it to make sure it's centered by the lug studs and if necessary either stretch the metal a little or just trim the drums to the depth where they interfere.

In your case a new 'skin should get it. Gotta be perfectly round though.

@Robert M as I’m playing things back in my head trying to come up with something. The deliverer did move the car from 2nd to first position in the trailer from where it was loaded. There weren’t any additional miles added but he did mention that he had an issue with the parking brake not engaging correctly.

when I took delivery I made sure it was functioning as it should by both engaging and disengaging it.

the pinging/metal tapping sound was prominent from the very first drive. At first it almost sounded like the Bilstein coils squeaking so With only 56 miles I brushed it off but it became apparent that the noise was not normal. And now that I’ve seen how bent & ripped at parts the drum skins are I’m a bit more concerned.

It is possible—though I don't think likely—that the transport driver bent the 'skin with a tie-down. More likely it was just a bit out of round and rubbed, heated up and disintegrated. It's a very dainty thing.

@Chappy Since I was tagged I just saw this post. Absolutely was not like that when it left my shop but I am pretty sure I know what happened. I have a feeling the transporter must have put a hook through a slot in the wheel to strap it down which was stupid if that is what he did. Then when he cranked it tight it looks like it bent the drum cover which is what you are hearing hitting.

You can remove that drum cover if you need to drive it tomorrow. you might be able to pound it back in to shape but I can get Greg to do up another drum cover and send it out to you. It may take a little while but as I said you can drive it without the drum cover safely.

Feel free to call me to discuss.

I just left a message for the transporter to discuss this. did you happen to see how it was strapped down when it arrived?

Really a shame and sorry this occurred. Pretty amazing he got there so quickly. 3 days from GA to Oregon. We'll get it taken care of either way.

Just a reminder to always take a god number of photos or video at the time of pick and delivery. I always did this and I was the Owner Operator.

I think Roy has it right.

I couldn't get drumskins to fit with my discs. I ended up trimming the entire "drum" section off a pair of drumskins leaving just the flat face between the wheel and hub.

That DEFINITELY made it work. Also let more air at the brakes, not a bad thing at all.

For now, just jack up the car, take the wheel off and temporarily re-install without the drum skin. As Ed says, they are flimsy, and easily bent.

What Danny says above.  Drum skins are just decorative, and are somewhat flimsy.

What Roy says is probably a good diagnosis. Now that I've been transporting exotics and other luxury cars I've seen a number of really brainless methods of securing vehicles. I too think a hook was placed in the rim to secure it because I see some scraping above where the drum skin is bent over. He likely did this because the tires are very skinny and he probably didn't have a strap basket to put over the top of the tire and he didn't think the regular strap would stay on the top of the tire.

The good thing is is that it's an easy fix and you'll be on the road again real quick.

Thank you all for the info etc.

I almost wish I had a cool story for how this happened but I’m glad to report she’s running perfect now.

Definitely looks like a hook from the transporter went through the rim and bent it. He secured it, moved it, and secured it again. Hook through the rim twice and bent the drum skin twice.

The Spyder has nice, easy to get to frame rails in back, and easy enough lower control arms in front.

There is just no reason to go through the wheels.

I've seen some real "cowboy" tie-down methods too, Robert. It's downright scary out there.

@Chappy I'm sure you'll get all fixed up with a new drumskin. Good as new!

Hang the old one on your garage wall, or use it as a crooked-flying frisbee!

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Chappy, you can have that drum skin looking as good as new with just a little patience and a few simple tools. Here's how:

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FWIW, looking at the drum skin I now think it was the transport driver.

@Alan Merklin posted:

Just a reminder to always take a god number of photos or video at the time of pick and delivery. I always did this and I was the Owner Operator.

Funny thing Alan, when I had my Spyder picked up last month the driver saved me the trouble and took 5-6 pictures of my car before he loaded it up!

@dlearl476 posted:

Funny thing Alan, when I had my Spyder picked up last month the driver saved me the trouble and took 5-6 pictures of my car before he loaded it up!

That's for his protection, not yours.

You should still take your own.

Well. Just took the ~100 mile round trip to the DMV.

its 90 degrees outside. Temp gauge stayed right around 200 the whole way. I was doing about 70mph slightly over 3000 rpm’s. Overall she ran smooth as butter for the inaugural trip.

one question- the rear clam would pop up on both sides if I hit a bump. Obviously I have the straps down and as tight as they go but it pops up at the latching/contact points and then stays open about a 1/4 inch or so give or take. Should I look to replace the interior latches or is there a better method to secure them? Not talking leather straps rather the locking mechanisms under the shell. I wasn’t worried about it totally coming up, but it’s enough of a gap that I don’t want it bouncing and rubbing.

the body appears straight and fit so I’m assuming it’s the actual hardware and not the alignment.

holy smokes is this car FUN. Power any time I need it, handles great  and such an amazing driving experience behind the wheel.

It's more like the alignment of the hardware. At least that's what it was with my car.

Here's what I did. https://www.speedsterowners.co...ic/clamshell-latches

I'm sure with some fiddling, you could get them to hold better. My passenger side latch would give way after any body flex. The roads in my area aren't the smoothest.

@Chappy posted:

holy smokes is this car FUN. Power any time I need it, handles great  and such an amazing driving experience behind the wheel.

... and now you know. Welcome to the madness.

You often have to mess with the latches a little. There is adjustment of the pins, and I found that making them a skosh longer helped make it more secure. Try turning them out about a quarter turn first. Remember you have to hold the nut while turning the pointy part with a big screwdriver.

But the more important "adjustment" is usually on the receiver side. They're sort of snapped together with metal tabs and the springs that hold the the keepers might be a little weak.

I replaced the springs on mine to make them stronger (Danny P showed the way to add a second spring if needed, but I didn't need). With the stronger springs installed, I welded all the tabs to keep them from shifting. Then I massaged the receiver slides with a Unibit, opening them up so they'd let go consistently when I pulled the release. I also took care to de-burr all the parts.

Finally I made sure my clam gasket was taking up all the space between the bottom of the clam edge and the body. I think it's really key to keep it from rattling and allow the lid to have a very small amount of tension on the latches while underway. On mine that means there's a D rubber under the traditional leather bit.

With all that done, the panel gaps are just right and the latches hold regardless of bumps & etc But when the car and the ambient air are hot, it's a little tricky to release. A little downward pressure in the middle of the clam usually does it but sometimes I need to pull the passenger edge out just subtly as well.

I also have home made quarter-turn latches which also work but I don't use them, since the stock latches latch and the locks on the ones I made are a little fiddly.