I'm finally driving my Speedster. It seems to be running a little warm.
What oil cooler would yo recommend for a 74 x 90 mm motor?
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ashcreek posted:I'm finally driving my Speedster. It seems to be running a little warm.
What oil cooler would yo recommend for a 74 x 90 mm motor?
TWIN MOCAL OIL COOLERS with or without FANS....
Banzai Pipeline posted:ashcreek posted:I'm finally driving my Speedster. It seems to be running a little warm.
What oil cooler would yo recommend for a 74 x 90 mm motor?
TWIN MOCAL OIL COOLERS with or without FANS....
SETRAB makes great coolers with fans and LESS PRICEY than MOCAL
Setrab 625 cooler (with fan-pack) fed through a MoCal sandwich plate with a 180 thermostat
Will Hesch posted:Setrab 625 cooler (with fan-pack) fed through a MoCal sandwich plate with a 180 thermostat
YESSSS...that sandwich plate(MOCAL) is a great GIZMO making access and install pretty friendly!
Are these coolers mounting behind the shroud?
I missed the part of " up front " What happened to the behind the
shroud set ups ? Every time I think I'm done with all the stuff, I'm
getting pulled right back into the game. What's the phrase from one
of The Godfather movies " I want to pull out, I keep getting dragged
back in"
Mounting extra coolers behind the shroud isn't a great idea - it pre-warms the air coming in through the front ( as in car) of the fan.
I usually mount them above the gearbox - not perfect for static traffic , but when rolling they don't affect the cooling air and get plenty of colder air from under the car.
I guess I'm back in! You use 2? Are different models, do you need a termostat?
And the big question? How much?
How much oil cooler do I need?
Are you guys running monster motors?
I'm running a 2,110 with the later (1971) fan shroud and cooler. I also run a DeRale 16-pass, fan assisted cooler:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/2...gEGKrKt0oaApC88P8HAQ
With the Mocal sandwich plate thermal oil switch and a 180° fan turn-on switch.
The cooler is mounted in the left rear wheel well, right after the oil filter. I am not a big fan of mounting anything over the transaxle as it tends to draw warmed air into the cooling fan inlet. My set-up has been working fine (always under 205° oil temp) for over a decade.
Gordon's set up Is similar to mine. Those other guys are recommending some pretty exotic set ups. I have a 10.5:1, 2276 running an EMPI 96 plate cooler with a fan and a Mocal sandwich bypass thermostat. It's mounted in the rear driver's side fender well, behind the tire.
For your set up, a 72 plate cooler would be just fine. Personally, I think the bypass thermostat (and a switch that turns on the fan at 180°) is something everybody should have with a remote cooler, and Mocal's sandwich is very nice. The whole set up is very easy to pipe, and pretty inexpensive.
I have used non fan assisted coolers in every "warmed up" air-cooled over 25 years. I live in the UK so it never really gets hot enough to demand a fan assisted cooler.
At one point I had a 23 Window, a road legal drag raced oval windowed bug and a Bay window crew cab. I had a "pool" of "big" motors to switch around all of them, so all connections and ancils had to be the same. Hence I didn't use sandwich plates and the oil cooling and filtering systems were a permanent part of the car not the engine. I used traditional "full flow" 5/8 NPT hose fittings on each engine case.
As the bay window and 57 window were lowered with modified axles, there was no space for coolers in the arch. I never suffered from heat issues with a cooler over the trans on any of the vehicles.
M.I.B posted:I have used non fan assisted coolers in every "warmed up" air-cooled over 25 years. I live in the UK so it never really gets hot enough to demand a fan assisted cooler.
At one point I had a 23 Window, a road legal drag raced oval windowed bug and a Bay window crew cab. I had a "pool" of "big" motors to switch around all of them, so all connections and ancils had to be the same. Hence I didn't use sandwich plates and the oil cooling and filtering systems were a permanent part of the car not the engine. I used traditional "full flow" 5/8 NPT hose fittings on each engine case.
As the bay window and 57 window were lowered with modified axles, there was no space for coolers in the arch. I never suffered from heat issues with a cooler over the trans on any of the vehicles.
A MONSTER in the UK runs cooler than a 1600 in PHOENIX.....
Ashcreek, I wanted a setup that took heat and me out of the equation.
I had a friend cut and bend a cooler mount that I bolted to the 2"x2" subframe Vintage uses around the engine compartment.
The mount provides air-space on the inside (next to the frame) of the cooler and sets the cooler upright in the drivers side rear wheel-well (tons of air)
I ran my -8 stainless oil lines from the oil pump cover (which has a 3rd pressure relief valve should the cold, start-up oil be too thick for the front and rear VW reliefs) to an aluminum cleanable oil filter (Setrab UNF3/4-16) $128. The filter is screwed onto an aluminum oil-filter adapter, readily available at any VW parts house.
The benefit of this filter is two-fold. First, you can use if forever, simply remove and wash in soapy water or solvent. Secondly, I can remove it anytime between oil changes and inspect what condition my oil's in, specifically-what's in my oil besides oil?
From the filter, the oil goes to the MoCal sandwich plate $125 which has a thermostatic valve, I chose 180 degrees. The plate sends the oil back to the engine until the thermostat hits 180, then the valve to the oil cooler opens and most of the oil is sent to the cooler.
From the cooler/fan (Setrab FP625M221 $420)
which has a thermostatic switch (TS180 $25)
that turns on the fan when the oil exceeds 180 degrees, the oil returns to the front of the engine where (in theory) clean, cool oil is dumped back into the sump where the whole thing starts over.
I should mention that with the extended sump (1 1/2 quart), cooler, filter and lines, my oil capacity is 5 1/2 quarts which now moves the engine from simply air-cooled to dual-cooled, air and oil-cooled.
Below are some photos of my set-up which kept my Vintage temp gauge from ever hitting the half-way mark.
Don't cheap-out on oil filtering and cooling. This setup was around $800 but the engine it cools and lubricates cost ten times that to replace!
One last thing: I also used all of the VW cooling tins, all of them. I also installed the VW thermostat and fan-shroud bellows which allows a faster warm-up which is super-important on these motors, especially on cold mornings.
cooler bolted to mount, note the airspace provided between mount and cooler
mount bolted through the Vintage fiberglass inner fenderwell into 2" subframe
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Gordon Nichols posted:I'm running a 2,110 with the later (1971) fan shroud and cooler. I also run a DeRale 16-pass, fan assisted cooler:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/2...gEGKrKt0oaApC88P8HAQ
With the Mocal sandwich plate thermal oil switch and a 180° fan turn-on switch.
The cooler is mounted in the left rear wheel well, right after the oil filter. I am not a big fan of mounting anything over the transaxle as it tends to draw warmed air into the cooling fan inlet. My set-up has been working fine (always under 205° oil temp) for over a decade.
Your method of adding wire mesh over the cooler was a good idea. Simple but effective.
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Wow, beautiful stuff. Back in the early days, 1760 motor with dual bug sprays,
an 8 pass cooler on the back of the shroud was the ultimate set-up.
Your cars must fly.
Things have come a long way. I was left in the dust 35 years ago.