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It’s rainy season here and I just applied some Aquapel to make my leaky tub a bit more drivable in the rain.

Tinkering with the top and windshield I discovered what many of you have pointed out before - something didn’t look right. 

I spent a while tightening the clamps and saw the bow find its seat on the windshield frame for the first time ever. Just the other day while visiting @Theron, he reminded me that he never used the top, save rare exceptions. It’s likely he never had to dial it in. And me, being a newbie, never knew it was supposed to be different.

Anyway, if you’re like me, go check your top clamps and dial them in.

Can anyone here give some professional pointers to how to do this correctly? I think I could go even further, but don’t want to unnecessarily stress the windshield.

Here’s the before and after:

7316E887-D0BE-420E-84AB-36B713DBD112

0C8B5EBB-D7FF-4BAB-BDE6-638196DA6E43

I still notice the curve doesn’t perfectly match the bow, but it’s much less noticeable now that the top covers the frame now. And finally I can't see the sky through the center bow notch! Am I water tight now? Probably not. But at least it's closer.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 7316E887-D0BE-420E-84AB-36B713DBD112: Before
  • 0C8B5EBB-D7FF-4BAB-BDE6-638196DA6E43: After
Last edited by Ryan (formerly) in NorCal
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

The top on the windshield really needs the optional 3rd center latch as the top bow tends to roll away a bit from the windshield frame as shown in your 1st photo. The correct way to set top tension is to leave the rear tension " flipper arms down "  and have enough tension on the bow clamps to pull down onto the windshield frame. ........your actual mileage will vary.

 

WOLFGANG posted:

Somewhere here there is someone with a 3rd top bow with a levered hook and a turn knob that catches the rear view mirror support rod.  Forget who had it.  Maybe they will see and post a photo.  There are photo here somewhere.

 

Greg and Ryan, I think this is the hook you mentioned. It was included as standard equipment on my 2013 VS:

VS_TopBowHook

And here's how VS modifies the top bow to accept the hook:

VS_TopBowSocket

The 'hook' part slips under the little rearview mirror rod. You're supposed to hook it under the mirror rod, pull down on the middle of the bow some and then tighten the knob. It's kinda, well... the word 'kludgy' comes to mind.

I never use this, mainly because I try not to drive the car in the rain, but also I'm worried about putting too much stress on the aluminum windshield frame and cracking the glass.

I guess you can order one from VS, put you'd have to set that little threaded piece into the top bow and cut out that slot for the mirror rod, too.

Look, there are reasons why they make blue masking tape.

 

Attachments

Images (2)
  • VS_TopBowHook
  • VS_TopBowSocket

Hello all, (not looking to hijack a thread here but I expect you all have had this issue judging by this thread) new VS Speedster owner here.  (Sits in the garage next to my 1997 Boxster, such fun cars).  Having an absolute BLAST with the speedster.

Can someone explain or show me any link as to HOW to "adjust" the "clamps" that attach the leading edge of the top to the header?  I feel mine should "pull" a little tighter.

Thank you in advance!  Ryan

Do you have a foam rubber strip in the fiberglass/plastic header bow to seal to the windshield top frame.  The clamps should compress it.  CMC header bow clamps have some adjustment too. Also the flip clamps on the bows where they mount to body are somewhat adjustable.  Heim joits on the ends would be good addition to add adjustments.

Image result for porsche replica speedster top bows

Last edited by WOLFGANG

Thank you for replying.  My top leading edge does not have weatherstrip in/on it but that makes sense.  I've had convertibles for over 30 years so I'm familiar and can run one on the flat edge or inside.  That'll give it some "sqoosh" and keep that drip out if ever caught out in rain.  (Here in Ft. Lauderdale, FL)  

Are the silver "clips"/"claws"/latches" adjustable in any way?

It's pretty amazing switching from the speedster to the Boxster and just appreciating their character and nuances. 

Order a real 3rd clip from Vintage.  Not too difficult to install and looks factory.     The odd thing is that the old CMC assembly manual I have shows that three clips were standard before VS started omitting them.

Justin should re-start putting three bow clips in the window top and while he's at it, make the side windows larger so they fit snugly into the slots that are sewn into the top without having to do the mod on them.

 

Dec 30 2014 006third latch 002 The  VS center knob catch does not put excessive pressure on the frame ,the flat hook grabs the mirror rod ( You must have a VS mirror rod as they have a slightly different configuration than VS - FF has. 

As far as side curtain vision Jack mentioned you can do an easy " Margard - Lexan full view side curtain .

Attachments

Images (2)
  • third latch 002
  • Dec 30 2014 006
Last edited by Alan Merklin
Robert M posted:

Personally, if I were making this from scratch I'd put in four clasps total. One on each side of the mirror rod about 3" left and right of center and the two outside clasps. No pressure on the windshield rod and it'd spread the tension out over a larger area.

You'd be pulling the windshield frame away from the glass. Aluminum is soft.

The mirror rod is perfect as it's attached to the dash.

Thanks for the feedback so far. I hear a lot of “not too tight”, but like @Ryan PA, I’m still a little unclear on how to quantify that. How do I know if it’s too tight?

I took a short drive today and noticed my passenger rear lever flips back loose now. Is that too tight? It would happen occasionally before, but now it moves on a decent bump.

Has anyone installed a center latch on a VS? Any tips on tapping the hole?

 

Ryan in NorCal posted:

...How do I know if it’s too tight?...

 

 

Tighten until you see this, then back off a little:

TooTight

Okay, sorry.

I yield to Dr. Clock, who's built a lot more Speedsters than I have. I think he's built more than anyone has. But, my mirror support rod is tied in pretty tight to the windshield frame at the top, so it sure seems like stressing it would torque the frame.

If it helps any, the thread on the VS center latch is a 1/4" x 20 (same as camera tripod socket threads), so if you don't want to mess with setting a threaded collar into the fiberglass bow, you could just drill a hole in the bow and use a nut on the other side, I guess.

There is also a common fitting in the photo industry for adapting a 1/4" tripod stud to 3/8" 'DIN' tripod sockets (common on some heavier gear). The fitting is a small collar with the 1/4" thread on the inside and the 3/8" thread on the outside. It really looks like that's what VS threaded (and glued?) into the header bow, but I can't say for sure.

I assume you tightened down the front latches to get your header bow to fit tighter to the windshield frame, but I can't see why that would make the rear tensioning levers pop off. You ARE attaching the front latches with the tensioning levers in the 'untensioned' position, and then tensioning them, right?

Also, I don't think adding another VS side latch in the middle would work. Those latches fit into a section of the windshield frame that's bent away from the glass, and there's no such bend in the middle.

 

Later Edit: I guess you can't just  "use a nut on the other side" of the header bow, as the top fabric is there. My top is tucked away under the tonneau and I haven't looked at it in a while.

 

 

 

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Images (1)
  • TooTight
Last edited by Sacto Mitch

A metal bow clip is thin enough to capture the windshield frame but IMHO the VS center knob latch is the best simple option.     Mirror rod tension: when the center latch captures the mirror rod, it is applying slight upward pressure ( probably less than a 1lb.) on the rod just enough to keep the soft plastic composite header bow in place and does not apply pressure to the windshield frame itself.

I'm with Alan - The VS center latch will capture the center rod and pull it slightly up while compressing the header channel weather strip down onto the windshield top frame.  Alan's guess of about 1 pound of pressure sounds about right, too (How he makes these wicked-accurate guesses, I'll never know    &nbsp

Also, if you use a CMC top latch in the middle, instead, (I haven't seen a VS latch) it will catch the edge of the windshield frame without having to bend the frame out.  Of course, if you ever have the frame off, a couple of pairs of taped-jaw pliers can bend a little lip in the frame to more easily latch on to.  It's a two-person job, but takes less than 30 seconds.

On my CMC (essentially the same windshield as a VS) I have it set up so that the latches compress the header channel weather strip about 1/4", which seems to work for me....But that is highly dependent on your header, how thick and squishy your weather strip is and how the header channel is shaped compared to your windshield frame - There seems to be a LOT of variability, especially with CMC headers.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
Those look excellent. . .and way above my pay grade. I am NOT that mechanically inclined.


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