No, not the website. I’m transporting the speedster on a U-haul car transport trailer (open, double axle) on a 250 mile trip and the question is facing forward or rearward. Rearward seems desirable to keep the heaviest part of the car at the front of the trailer. Challenges with that approach is the sidewinder muffler is only 1.5” above the leading edge of the trailer. Maybe overthinking this as the trailer weighs 2,200 lbs and the car only weighs 1,650 lbs.
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I would put it on the trailer facing forward. A U-Haul trailer is a dual axle trailer and as such will be unaffected by the minimal weight of the Revel plastic model car you'll be putting on top of it. The U-Haul trailers are also fairly short so the car will be very well centered if not forward of the rear axle. You're going to want your windshield as far forward as possible to protect it from rocks and other road debris as well. Having the car face to the rear also seems like it would act as a wind catch and put undo stress on the windshield posts.
My experience with speedsters on a U Haul trailer, I have placed it on all the way forward. The 1600 lb. weight and the HD dual axle configuration it's not a concern. The U Haul's only have two front basket to tire straps and a single chain for the back of the car ...I use two additional tie down ratchet straps anchored the bottom shock tower cups.
My trailer was similar in length to a U-Haul and I have 16-20,000 miles of towing with it.
Totally agree with four tie-down straps or whatever - one at each corner and use 3” nylon straps, NOT some wimpy 1” ‘Cargo Straps’. I’m not a fan of chains unless you use a chain binder. If you don’t know what that is (I’m sure Alan does) then use nylon straps. I wouldn’t use a chain on my car…… I mean, just look at her!
I loaded mine facing forward, two tie-down straps around the lower torsion bar tube in the front and crossed them, left car to right on the trailer and right car to left on the trailer. Do that and it ain’t going anywhere. The nose of the car ended up about 8”-10” from the front of my useable space before I hit the utility box up front.
At the rear, I couldn’t cross the straps (the engine sump was in the way) so ran them over the transaxle frame horns and straight back to the trailer loops. All straps got tightened so I couldn’t get another “click”, then go on the road for 2 - 5 miles and tighten them again (they will be loose). That should suffice for the rest of your trip, but always check them when you stop for anything, like puppy pee-breaks or something.
I never had wheel web straps as Alan mentioned, but can see that they work really well - I just have no experience with them.
Just as a reference point (this may not apply to your trailer) I would load the car onto the trailer and then lined the car’s rear wheel center cap up with the rear edge of the trailer fender. Doing that positioned the car on my trailer to prevent fish-tailing wallow out back and gave me sufficient weight on the trailer hitch/tongue, just enough to settle nicely, but not so much that the rear of the tow vehicle dropped much - May an inch or three.
I towed with a 3/4 ton diesel pickup that (a.) really didn’t car what the hell was being towed and (b.) could tolerate a bit of fishtailing and not complain. Still, it was a LOT less stressful getting everything positioned just so to distribute the weight and just hum along. Take your time loading and strapping everything down and you’ll be fine.
Any questions? Just ask on here.
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At least you had a U-Haul!
I use 4 ratchet straps and a safety chain between the trailer and truck......
If I was using a trailer all the time I would make a bracket to hook the strap thru.
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I'm a proponent of flat-towing a Speedster (as long as it rolls free with good tires). I pulled 1200 miles from No Va to NW FL with a Toyota 4 cyl Camry. The Camry wouldn't be safe to pull both a trailer and the Speedster. Really didn't notice it once underway.
I did slightly modify the standard VW Bug tow bar to pull arms in (maybe 2-3") to clear the front CMC bumper brackets. I did have one rear drum lock up about 10 miles into the trip. I backed the star adjuster off and continued on. Parked overnight at a Marriott with pull thru parking. Somewhat nervous as the car had no registration or insurance on it! The rolling hills of SC caused me to turn off the AT O/D but no issues at all. The Interior was full of stuff as we retired to FL.
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Thank you all for the advice. Loaded it up this morning facing forward and the trip went well. Unfortunately it did rain most of the trip but taping the top to windshield gap seemed to help.
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U-Haul car haulers are soooo nice. They really are.
Pretty car. Love the color combo. This is the new Beck chassis right?
I'll answer for him since I think he's on the road. Yes, it's one of the first on the new chassis. I got a good look at it when I helped him put the engine in and the new design is really nice.
@Lane Anderson posted:I'll answer for him since I think he's on the road. Yes, it's one of the first on the new chassis. I got a good look at it when I helped him put the engine in and the new design is really nice.
I went up to Breman to pick up my car late last fall (Fincher had trailered it back from the TdS), and @chines1 took time out of his day to give me a very complete tour of the complex.
I'd been there a few years ago (when Anand was having his original '58 coupe restomodded as a GS/GT by Carey and crew), but the Special Edition operation has expanded even more since then and now occupies four buildings and 3 of 4 corners of an intersection. It's not a small operation (by any measure) and the fact that Carey takes the time to post here is a service to the entire community.
I was able to crawl under both ends of a Speedster with the new chassis when it was up on a lift.
It is a very, very impressive bit of kit.
https://www.speedsterowners.co...18#71135621710813591
Yes, it’s the new chassis. Handles very well. The rear end is very planted and the rack and pinion steering is precise.