901 Hood Crest & Rubber Gasket install for non-handled 356

I used a similar hood emblem as that one, but mine is the original 356 size and is slightly smaller than yours.

Step 1:  I made a template out of cardboard folder material by pressing the emblem onto the folder cardboard while the paper was sitting on a soft-ish dinner placemat.  Once the pins made dimples in the paper, I drilled through the paper so the emblem would fit through it.

Step 2:  Once the holes are drilled, push the emblem pins through the paper.  Your emblem won't fit flush against the paper because of the pin shoulders - be patient, we'll get to that.  With the emblem against the paper, trace around the outside of the emblem with a pencil, then cut along the line and make your template.  It might help to make more than one template, yah never know.

Step 3:  Remove the emblem from the paper and use the paper template to position it where you want it on the hood.  It should be centered left-to-right.   I placed mine 3" up from the bottom of the hood to the point on the bottom of the emblem.  Placement up and down isn't set in stone - where-ever it looks good to you will do.

Step 4:  Once you have it located where you want it, tape the template in place and drill the holes for the pins using the template as a guide.  Use a drill 1 or 2 sizes larger than the pins and drill slowly and apply VERY LITTLE pressure to the drill. 

Step 5:  Once the pin holes are drilled, measure the OD of those pin pads and, using a drill 1 size larger than the pad OD, drill a dimple at each hole just deep enough to accept the pin pad depth.  Again, drill slowly with very little pressure on the drill bit to minimize cracking of the paint and/or gel coat.  Remember - only drill deep enough to let the pin pads seat in so the emblem sits flat.

Step 6:  Remove the template and dry-fit the emblem to make sure things look good.  When you're done adjusting and satisfied with the look, you're ready to apply the emblem.  I used a small (dime-size) dab of clear silicon caulk on the back side of the emblem to hold it in place while finishing the application.  If you use a bigger dab of Silicon, no big deal - just trim it off flush to the emblem, after it cures, with an Xacto knife - it peels right off.  If you decide to use the rubber gasket (I did not) then NOW is the time to apply it.  A dab of silicon behind the gasket and another one under the emblem will hold things in place while you're adjusting.  

Note:  If the gasket allows the pin pads to go through, you may not have to drill the dimples in the hood.  Think about what is best (with the least drilling) and go with that.

It should have come with tinnerman clips which are designed to press on to the pins from the back side of the hood to hold the emblem in place.  Just press on the emblem from the top side while pressing the tinnerman clips on from the back.  They are bowed - make them bow towards you so the ends hit the hood first.   Just before they bottom out on the pins, re-check the placement/attitude to make sure they're right, then press the tinnerman clips home.  This is mine from the underside of the hood - I only have one locating pin:

Final step:  Let the silicon caulk cure overnight and then trim off any that squished out around the emblem and you're done.  It should look like this:

Mine is framed all around by my clear bra material, but you get the idea.

Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask more questions.

Wow!  This is great information!  I appreciate the detail of your response Gordon!  I will start by making the template.  Did you need to do anything special for the prongs to make it through the thickness of the hood?  I am assuming they're long enough... this was part of my apprehension of drilling the holes. 

IIRC, my hood is about 3/16" - 1/4" thick in that area, but your thickness may vary.  You won't really know until you drill the first hole, but you can always drill holes for the pins, seat the emblem and then epoxy the pins to the underside of the hood.  Almost any kind of clear glue/adhesive will do.

Thanks Gordon!  

Years ago I added one to a Porsche 914 (ok some say VW-Porsche) front hood.  My car was white and the black gasket gave a nice contrast (plus on a steel car kept out water).  Metal is thinner than fiberglass but you can use a Dremmel tool to thin the fiberglass so you can use the attachment nuts.  The CMC hood is double-walled so a larger hole in the trunk hole would be needed to attach the nuts.  People often like to steal these nice hood crests so the nuts offer extra security.  

Would the membership base be able to provide a photo or two of the hole that needs to be cut on the inside of the hood in order to use the nuts that came with the Hood crest?  I would appreciate that.

I suppose some sort of hood liner would cover a hole like that, should I choose to do so.

Also, I noticed the prongs are not threaded, so the nuts must be a one-way-street... easy push on, difficult to pull off?

Would the membership base be able to provide a photo or two of the hole that needs to be cut on the inside of the hood in order to use the nuts that came with the Hood crest?  I would appreciate that.

Sure - Later today.  It's not a difficult hole to make and it's the same hole you cut to gain access to the nuts holding the hood safety latch in place.

I suppose some sort of hood liner would cover a hole like that, should I choose to do so.

I didn't need one - it's in a place no one ever looks at.

Also, I noticed the prongs are not threaded, so the nuts must be a one-way-street... easy push on, difficult to pull off?

Exactly.

Thanks Gordon and WOLFGANG!  I look forward to seeing the pics!

Also, I am now an official "Supporting Member".  Best value and resource out there!  Thank you for the patience and knowledge!

Ok, photos of the underside of the hood looking at the hole in the front giving access to the latch nuts: 

That’s the hood prop rod on the left.  

gn

Got it! Thanks!

Gordon hole is for the hood latch.  If you add the crested exterior hood handle the 3 holes in the inner frunk liner are like 1/4" but that is for a normal steel nut.  The 2 locking nuts for the emblem are about 3/8".  If you don't apply carpet to the lid to cover, you can get black plastic plugs to fill the holes.  

My hood is a blank canvas.  So I never had the hood handle as a placement guide.  That is why I was nervous about drilling and the placement. 

The only placement idea I have so far is Gordon’s 3” off the hood bottom to the point of the hood crest. But given that mine is a full sized emblem, I will have to see if that will look good with this larger hood crest.  

I don't know what spacing the early 901/911's used.  Looks more than 3" - maybe 5-6"?  You can buy a Speedster emblem vinyl decal that you could experiment with where its placed.

I think the hood is more domed closer to front edge and flatter (like the 911 hood) as you go further back

The more I think of it 3” will not be enough because the emblem is larger than Gordon’s.  I’ll look up lots of pictures and try and figure it out.  Also I am sure other members have already been down this road and may see this and weigh in.  😁👍

I've installed several of them over the years on Vintage Super Widebody cars.  I did drill holes and used the base seal and never had a problem with the pins not being long enough.   I didn't use any templates, just eyeballed where I thought it looked good and drilled the holes. They all turned out great. 

Yeah, I agree with Troy - Don't agonize over this.  Just find a spot on the hood where it looks good to YOU and get it on there.  I would probably use the rubber gasket, too (It covers a lot of potential ills) and just go with it.  It's not like we're all subject to the whims of the "Emblem Placement Police" on these replicas, right?

You are right. I’ll wing it!

The finished product 😂👍

Perfect!

Looks awesome, Bob!