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George would have been right about the weight as well..

911s are known as tail draggers, and the extra 150 pounds+ that they sport is acceptable hanging off the ass end of a 3200+ pound car..BUT when you hang that much extra weight off the tail of a Speedster its notable in the handling department.

Also keep in mind the cost of owning a 911 engine- a set of spark plug wires that cost 40 bucks for a TI or TIV engine run 200+ bucks for a 911! If the alternator goes bad you are talking 250-400+ bucks for a new unit or 129 bucks for a TI.. These are just a few of the costs that are associated. Getting passed by a four cylinder is also much harder to stomach when you have a six :-)
I'd have to echo all the above...even though my car has a 911 engine. If it was not there to begin with I don't think I'd put one in there now.

Its not just as simple as bolting it up ... there's much more if you want to do it right and address the handling issues and the need for increased airflow in the engine compartment and the cooling issues. I'm still changing mine from year to year.

And ditto on the cost. Anything Porsche is a lot more expensive. I rebuilt my 4 cylinder 912 about 12 years ago...about $5K in parts and machining alone. I did all the work.

$1,500 for a good 911? I got a 911S longblock last year and I think I paid about $3,000. If I didn't have a donor engine the ignition, fuel system, electrical, etc could have easily added another few grand to that.

But if its the challenge that you want then go for it! Some folks just like to do stuff to prove to themselves that they can and get enjoyment from that. Its your car.

Brian
Adam,
Remember that you can do anything if you have money, determination and at least moderate intelligence. The question is, should you?

Henry @ IM has done 911 engined speedstahs. I have great appreciation for his workmanship and would look very hard at his conversion to see what he has done. Emulate as much as possible, improve where possible.

The 911 engine and transmission are something like 200-250 lbs heavier than the 4 cylinder drivetrain. I would be extremely hesitant to put a 911 engine to a VW transaxle unless it were purpose built (and there are several companies who build really stout trannys). The engine is probably 150 lbs heavier. All out the back. Need to compensate for that somehow. Porsche put pig iron in the nose of some of the 356 cars to compensate for the 4 cylinder!! In the 911 they had two differente wheelbases, the longer one (1969?)stayed and the short one was dropped like an bad smelling blind date. Also, some of the 911s put two batteries up front instead of the inelegant pig iron arrangement. Same idea. 911 went from ferrous metal trailing arms to aluminum which saved weight at the rear HUGELY. In short, a 911, one of my favorite cars in the world is often described as "Sound development triumphing over basically unsound engineering." That is in reference to the heavy rear-end nature of the car.. (continuing post)
Everything in life comes down to balance and your engine is no exception. You must balance the HP and handling with the $$ you have to spend and the chassis you have to work with. My spyder with its mid engine configuration, does not suffer for the addition of the weight as far as distribution goes. The additional weight was very evenly divided front/rear. Of course, every addition of weight slows a car down, hurts braking and undermines handling no matter what so bear that in mind.

The speedstah will benefit from the power, but will be hurt in the handling significantly. Please approach Henry @ IM and see what he has done to compensate. We've done some 911 engine into 912 car swaps and found it straight forward, but even on those bodies, there was a difference in handling. Remember, you want to have FUN!

A $1500 911 engine is not a bargain. It's a fright pig. This will be an early engine, magnesium case, carbureted. The very very early aluminum case engines are quite valuable so if this is one, buy it and resell it to finance your fun. The problem with the mag case is that when they over heat, they sag. Then the case maybe saves with alot of machining but is probably junk. On any magnesium case motor, it will cost $2000-$3000 more than any aluminum case motor to rebuild. If you are lucky. The estimate I had to rebuild my driving POS magnesium case motor (after full tear down) was $10,820 bucks. Needless to say, I ran screaming from that motor (which I had already spent $8000 on) and will NEVER have another one...(cont)
The 2.7 liter engines are mag case but most are the much improved 7R case. They are the best of the bad cases and are usually the foundation for the RS and RSR clone cars. These can be built safely but usually at a premium. In stock form, the 2.7 is just 150-170 hp brand new. Frankly, Raby can build you a Type IV in that power range that runs great, lives a respectable lifespan (don't know how long, jack, please fill in), and has great customer service. It will require regular maintenance, get good at valve adjustments. If what I read on this site is correct, plan on adjusting valves every 3,000 miles. On a P-car motor, you adjust them on 30,000 mile intervals (source- Bently Service Manual). The adjustment will cost you more $$.

Everything on a P-car motor costs more money. But they run robustly for a long time. The engine currently in my spyder will be pulled out this fall for overhaul. This is the motor I drove to the James Dean thing. Its an 82 3.0 with 149,000 on the clock. Never opened up, not even a valve job. This motor, stock is 180 hp. Pelican Forum shows dyno results with PMO carbs and headers at a 20 hp improvement. My motor is a little soft, I'd say its 170-180 tops. But it did that for 149,000 miles! I love these motors.

Let's explore another avenue. Why not a subie motor? Leave it rear engined, put the radiator up front (weight compensation). Should handle well, go like STINK, cheap to build, cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, good gas mileage. Why not? Frankly, a well built turbo subie motor would eat my P-car engine for LUNCH, and it would do it for 100,000 miles. Right now, I hope someone is looking at a munched WRX STI and going Hmm.....

You can fit a 911 engine in your car. I love 911 engines and would put one in my speedstah (if I had a speedstah). But we all know I'm a bubble off plum... In short, review all your options, think hard and dont be afraid to do something that no one else has done. I've put Chevy 350's in Jaguars, a rotary in a Fiat X19 and now the P-car motor in a spyder. Have fun, build what you love and remember that eccentric people make the world more interesting place!! angela
Intermeccanica does indeed make a 911 speedster. However, it isn't simply a matter of dropping a 2.7 L mill in the back of a pan-based car. The frame and body are purpose built for the application with a longer wheelbase, and stronger frame members. Henry builds the cars using owner supplied mechanicals, including suspension and drive-line parts.

Anything is possible, but not everything is advisable. A 911 spyder like Angela owns makes sense. A 911 speedster sacrifices quite a bit of "balance" for something less tangible. No possible economic argument can be made for having the conversion done.

Yes, a 911 engine will go 200K mi w/o a rebuild, if cared for properly. Angela drives those kind of miles. But, given the fact that almost nobody else drives a speedster more than 5K mi/ yr, I'd say that's probably more longevity than you are looking for. Factor in that you could buy 4 nice 150 h/p Type 1 engines (complete) for the cost of that 911, and unless you NEED a Porsche engine for other (intangible) reasons- I'd go with something else.
Adam, unless you are up for Henry at IM building one of his beautiful 911 specials. I would consider a large displacement Type IV over a 911. It will not be cheap (about what that $1500 911 engine will cost after it throws a timing chain) and it will not sound as cool as a 911, but it will be better in every other respect for this application.

I drove Paul Harford's Massive Type IV equipped Vintage Speedster and it is Euro-Spec 930 fast, scary fast actually.
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