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I'm facing the same task. I'm thnking of just doing the seat and back cushions in red leather and leaving the trim (still looks near new) in black. I took those parts off and there is quite a bit of reinforcing/shaping material (like a thin hardboard) sewn in -- not just a simple cover. I'd like to also remove the head rest. I was surprized that there was no metal frame at all in the seats -- just fiberglass. If I cut the head rest off I will have to reinforce/shape the back area probably with wood covered with fiberglass. I've price a cow hide on ebay ($100 for 48 irregular square feet) - suspect just 1 would be tight. Ones listed on ebay are Chinese red - wonder if that is close to fire engine red? It does not appear that the 914 adjusters can be used so will use the CMC sliders with a wood spacer.

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  • 914 Seats
Yeah, I paid about $150 USD for a pair with the glides and recline adjusters from a salvage yard just outside New York City - I found their ad on a PCA website and drove down one rainy afternoon. If I fell over in their yard I swear I would have been at Times Square, they were that close to the city!

BTW: if you really want BOTH 914 seats to recline (they don't recline much, anyway) then get the recline adjusters from a couple of drivers seats - the two cars I stole from didn't have recline adjusters for the passenger seats.
BTW, Wolfgang:
I used BOTH the 914 sliders AND recliners in my CMC and they worked out just fine. You have to fabricate a rear mount that acts like a hinge so the seats can recline (or "rock") as a unit - I used a strap hinge from Home Depot. They sit nicely low in the cockpit - in fact, the seat surface is almost flush with the door sill and looks like it belongs that way. You just flop in, slide across and you're in.
On the rocking part, I believe that 914's had something like a peg with notches in it that stuck up from the floor, but it was part of a solid cross-member. Instead, I bolted a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2"piece of angle iron cross-wise on the floor for strength, and then made up another angle iron piece (2 1/2" X 2 1/2" X 1/4" thick), toothed or notched to fit the adjuster tooth actuated by the lever on the side of the seat. That angle iron got welded to the cross-member and the whole thing replaced the adjuster peg on the 914, but is much stronger. I have three positions of adjustment, but find I like it mostly down (or more erect, since the whole seat rocks for "recline").

Just remember that the lever adjuster tooth is wedge shaped for a reason: It'll wedge itself into the toothed angle iron piece and not giggle or rattle. The notshes should look like a really big gear - If you make the notches square it'll rattle like hell and you'll feel it moving up and down - those designers thought of everything........
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