Anybody know of a rebuilt 915 tranny or someone who has had one rebuilt and very satisfied with their service? It would be a 78 to 83 modle year. Thanks Tom
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Anybody know of a rebuilt 915 tranny or someone who has had one rebuilt and very satisfied with their service? It would be a 78 to 83 modle year. Thanks Tom
The only good guys I know are on the left coast e.g. John Walker's Workshop in Seattle. I'm sure there are others who are more geographically desirable, but I do not know them myself.
If no on here knows of a right coast guy who is good, then you might pose the same question on Pelican Parts BBS.
angela
If no on here knows of a right coast guy who is good, then you might pose the same question on Pelican Parts BBS.
angela
Might be more worthwhile to get a used one, there are a bunch around. If it ain't the greatest, you will still be able to drive it while yours is rebuilt.
Angela, Your name came up when I bought this car . Its an Intermeccanica wide body,tube frame car with a 3.0 ltr, 5 sp,ac,4wdb,roll up windows ect.,ect. This car was in Henrys family for several years as a driver. I do have a question for ya. The motor has not been started for 4 years,but it will turn over. What steps should I take when firing this thing after its sat so long. The gas tank is getting boiled out and all the gas lines will be replaced. The car is F.I. and was running great when parked and stored in a heated garage. Tom p.s. 3rd gear is suppose to be out in the tranny.
As you have already resolved the fuel problem, here's what I would do next:
1. Put fresh oil in it - just use cheap oil. Don't overfill.
2. Pull the fuel pump relay and disconnect the ignition module. So you have no fuel and no spark.
3. Crank to visible oil pressure on the guage.
4. Reconnect the fuel pump relay and ignition module.
5. Fire it up. It will fire surprisingly quick. Even though it is FI, you may need to hold it at fast idle (1500-2K) for a couple of minutes after sitting so long as the injectors etc., may be a bit sticky.
6. Drive it long enough to get it full up temperature. After cool down, change the oil and put good stuff in the second time.
The big thing to remember on the 3.0 FI is that they run on vacuum. Old hoses with little vacuum leaks will significantly effect the driveability. If you are replacing hoses, there is one that goes to the oil fill neck that has a vacuum restrictor in it. It's stuffed inside the hose, the new hose will not have the restrictor. On the 3.0 engines, if you forget the restrictor, you can never check the oil level. The engine will die as soon as you pull the cap off and will not restart until you replace the cap - thus you cannot check the oil level!
I know this because I inadvertently tossed my restrictor (looks like a little funnel) when I replaced all the hoses/lines on my 3.0 911...
Also make sure all three sets of shift bushings are NEW before you consider overhauling the transaxle. Many a 915, including one at our house has been overhauled when the problem was actually the shift bushings. Put new ones in even if you do determine the 915 needs overhauled. Always good to start fresh and they are very cheap.
Have fun - this has got to be an AWESOME car!
angela
1. Put fresh oil in it - just use cheap oil. Don't overfill.
2. Pull the fuel pump relay and disconnect the ignition module. So you have no fuel and no spark.
3. Crank to visible oil pressure on the guage.
4. Reconnect the fuel pump relay and ignition module.
5. Fire it up. It will fire surprisingly quick. Even though it is FI, you may need to hold it at fast idle (1500-2K) for a couple of minutes after sitting so long as the injectors etc., may be a bit sticky.
6. Drive it long enough to get it full up temperature. After cool down, change the oil and put good stuff in the second time.
The big thing to remember on the 3.0 FI is that they run on vacuum. Old hoses with little vacuum leaks will significantly effect the driveability. If you are replacing hoses, there is one that goes to the oil fill neck that has a vacuum restrictor in it. It's stuffed inside the hose, the new hose will not have the restrictor. On the 3.0 engines, if you forget the restrictor, you can never check the oil level. The engine will die as soon as you pull the cap off and will not restart until you replace the cap - thus you cannot check the oil level!
I know this because I inadvertently tossed my restrictor (looks like a little funnel) when I replaced all the hoses/lines on my 3.0 911...
Also make sure all three sets of shift bushings are NEW before you consider overhauling the transaxle. Many a 915, including one at our house has been overhauled when the problem was actually the shift bushings. Put new ones in even if you do determine the 915 needs overhauled. Always good to start fresh and they are very cheap.
Have fun - this has got to be an AWESOME car!
angela
Tom:
East Coasters whom I would trust with building/rebuilding a 915:
G. N. Engineering
Owner: George Nelson,
1238 Canton Ave., Milton, MA.
Tel: 617-333-0275
E-Mail: ggn356@comcast.net
Meister Restorations
Owners: Rainer Cooney and Jerry Draco
Location: Rt. 28, North Barnstead, NH
Shipping (UPS etc) Address:1414 Suncook Valley Rd
Center Barnstead, NH. 03225
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 846
Alton, NH. 03809
Tel: 603-776-3561
Sorry I don't have someone closer, but they might know someone closer to you (I know there's a good shop in Maryland, somewhere, but can't recall the name)
Gordon
East Coasters whom I would trust with building/rebuilding a 915:
G. N. Engineering
Owner: George Nelson,
1238 Canton Ave., Milton, MA.
Tel: 617-333-0275
E-Mail: ggn356@comcast.net
Meister Restorations
Owners: Rainer Cooney and Jerry Draco
Location: Rt. 28, North Barnstead, NH
Shipping (UPS etc) Address:1414 Suncook Valley Rd
Center Barnstead, NH. 03225
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 846
Alton, NH. 03809
Tel: 603-776-3561
Sorry I don't have someone closer, but they might know someone closer to you (I know there's a good shop in Maryland, somewhere, but can't recall the name)
Gordon
Try
Auto Assets Inc
www.autoassets.com
378 W Olentangy St
Powell, Ohio
(614) 793-1050
About 15 miles north of Columbus, OH and about 110 miles N/W of you)
Auto Assets Inc
www.autoassets.com
378 W Olentangy St
Powell, Ohio
(614) 793-1050
About 15 miles north of Columbus, OH and about 110 miles N/W of you)
Angela.
It fired right up but is blowing out white(not blue) smoke. Its very bad at times...I shut it down and cleaned out the all the junk in the t. body ect. The car ran better but the idle kick up to 2000 rpm and the smoke cleared up a little bit. I can screw the air jet in all the way and it stll runs close to the same idle. Any ideas??? Having owned tons of VWs, I know the shifters are always needing tweeked, so while playing with the 5 sp ,I did get it to go into 3rd gear which was suppose to be out of it. It will not engage into 1st and 3rd hardly at all. The shift bushings were suppose to have been replaced,but the shifter is very sloppy. It sits on about a 3" base and has a long throw. The guy who owned the car didnt know anything about it,and I may get lucky enough to have just a shifter problem. What do I need to check? Thanks to all the people that have responded. When ya see pictures of the car later,you will know why Im going nuts on this speedy. Tom
It fired right up but is blowing out white(not blue) smoke. Its very bad at times...I shut it down and cleaned out the all the junk in the t. body ect. The car ran better but the idle kick up to 2000 rpm and the smoke cleared up a little bit. I can screw the air jet in all the way and it stll runs close to the same idle. Any ideas??? Having owned tons of VWs, I know the shifters are always needing tweeked, so while playing with the 5 sp ,I did get it to go into 3rd gear which was suppose to be out of it. It will not engage into 1st and 3rd hardly at all. The shift bushings were suppose to have been replaced,but the shifter is very sloppy. It sits on about a 3" base and has a long throw. The guy who owned the car didnt know anything about it,and I may get lucky enough to have just a shifter problem. What do I need to check? Thanks to all the people that have responded. When ya see pictures of the car later,you will know why Im going nuts on this speedy. Tom
I wouldn't adjust the mixture or anything else. Put a can of fuel injection cleaner into it and see if it improves in a couple of days of driving. Otherwise you will get to adjust AGAIN... I bought an 82 to use as a parts car that had been sitting for a couple years. Smoked quite a bit for about 100 miles (white smoke) and then cleared right up. We wound up driving that car for about two years before pulling the drivetrain for another project. Remember, you have three year old fuel varnish on every part of the fuel system including the injectors.
There should be a little play but no real "slop" in the shift bushings. You have three of them. One under the shifter (a cup), then one that goes around the rod, the last ones are in the coupler. About two weeks ago a buddy came by with an old 911. Very sloppy shifter but he insisted he had replaced the shift bushings. He had only replaced the cup, but not the other two. The one around the rod had broken into little pieces and was laying in the bottom of the transmission tunnel.
Always go easy/cheap first, then look for harder repairs. It saves alot of aggravation and works probably 1/4 of the time. When it does, you feel like a freakin' genuis!
angela
There should be a little play but no real "slop" in the shift bushings. You have three of them. One under the shifter (a cup), then one that goes around the rod, the last ones are in the coupler. About two weeks ago a buddy came by with an old 911. Very sloppy shifter but he insisted he had replaced the shift bushings. He had only replaced the cup, but not the other two. The one around the rod had broken into little pieces and was laying in the bottom of the transmission tunnel.
Always go easy/cheap first, then look for harder repairs. It saves alot of aggravation and works probably 1/4 of the time. When it does, you feel like a freakin' genuis!
angela
Ive amazed myself thanks to your advice. Crossing my fingers on the bushings. What should I do about the high idle?
Undoubtably your car has CIS injection. It can be real finicky and if dirt or rust get trapped in the fuel injection distributor or in the "cleanable" injectors, you'll have nothing but headaches. I'd suggest as did Angela that you join http://www.pelicanparts.com/index.htm a lot of information can be had by searching and asking questions.
You should know how your system works so try clicking on this link:
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
Invest in a can of carburetor cleaner. Spray every hose but keep the fumes away from the air intake. If you spray a hose and its ends and the engine stumbles, then you have a vacuum leak. CIS engines can not stand to have a vacuum leak so make that repair then move on.
A vacuum leak may cause the the engine to have a high idle so do this check before you adjust anything.
ps. Also spray where the injectors terminate into the engine. If an "O" ring that holds the injector is leaking, the carb. cleaner will find the leak.
You should know how your system works so try clicking on this link:
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
Invest in a can of carburetor cleaner. Spray every hose but keep the fumes away from the air intake. If you spray a hose and its ends and the engine stumbles, then you have a vacuum leak. CIS engines can not stand to have a vacuum leak so make that repair then move on.
A vacuum leak may cause the the engine to have a high idle so do this check before you adjust anything.
ps. Also spray where the injectors terminate into the engine. If an "O" ring that holds the injector is leaking, the carb. cleaner will find the leak.
You do recognize the white smoke means it's running lean? Usually when you spray a vacuum leak with a propane based aerosol the engine will run up because it is getting more fuel throught he vacuum leak opening. If you just have a propane torch, you can do the same thing.
Jack and others, I've used ether and propane over the years to find vacuum leaks is works but I've got to tell you that it doesn't stand up the ease of using carburetor cleaner.
Sometimes it's difficult to determine if there is an increase in RPM's using ether or propane, if you use carburetor cleaner, there is ABSOLUTELY NO DOUBT that the engine is stumbling.
Give it a try, it works so much better!!!!!!
Regarding a Porsche 6 cylinder engine. White smoke doesn't necessarily mean it's running lean. Porsche engines have a way of dropping oil into the heat exchangers/headers. If this happens then the smoke comes out white. Also, if condensation/water is present in the headers, white smoke will also appear.
Sometimes it's difficult to determine if there is an increase in RPM's using ether or propane, if you use carburetor cleaner, there is ABSOLUTELY NO DOUBT that the engine is stumbling.
Give it a try, it works so much better!!!!!!
Regarding a Porsche 6 cylinder engine. White smoke doesn't necessarily mean it's running lean. Porsche engines have a way of dropping oil into the heat exchangers/headers. If this happens then the smoke comes out white. Also, if condensation/water is present in the headers, white smoke will also appear.
As far as chemicals, find a BG dealer. Buy two cans of 44K, it is expensive, a 12 oz. can was over twenty bucks in the 90s. Run two cans through the gas tank, it usually helps most cars. This stuff plain old works.
If it backfired even once, the air sensor plate could be off. That is why a pop-off valve(aftermarket) needs to be installed on all SCs. I can explain more if you want. I also have a CIS pressure gauge to check warm/cold/and total pump pressure. This gauge is absolutely essential for any CIS troubleshooting. CIS is mechanical in nature, like everyone says, any vacuum leak will screw it up. Also, fuel accumulators are notorious for crapping out, this causes a hot-start problem and sometimes even a cold one. One way valves in/near the fuel pump fail also. Also, warmup regulators go as well as the cold-start injector. Your injector o-rings are probably dry-rotted and leaking air, VERY common.
Carb cleaner is ok, but if you are cleaning any FI components, use Berryman Chemtool B12, recommended by Bosch for CIS.
If it backfired even once, the air sensor plate could be off. That is why a pop-off valve(aftermarket) needs to be installed on all SCs. I can explain more if you want. I also have a CIS pressure gauge to check warm/cold/and total pump pressure. This gauge is absolutely essential for any CIS troubleshooting. CIS is mechanical in nature, like everyone says, any vacuum leak will screw it up. Also, fuel accumulators are notorious for crapping out, this causes a hot-start problem and sometimes even a cold one. One way valves in/near the fuel pump fail also. Also, warmup regulators go as well as the cold-start injector. Your injector o-rings are probably dry-rotted and leaking air, VERY common.
Carb cleaner is ok, but if you are cleaning any FI components, use Berryman Chemtool B12, recommended by Bosch for CIS.
Tom -
The 3.0L were notorious for ruining (cracking) the air-box after a cold-start backfire (don't ask me how I know).
The cold start valve (?) would enrich the fuel mixture on a cold start (morning) and if the car backfired, the rich fuel mixture would combust and explode (crack) the air-box. As Angela said, vacuum is critical, and the car won't start with even a minute vacuum-leak in the air-box. The after-market 'pop-off' Danny P alluded to was the usual remedy.
Hope you are able to get your IM on the road real soon so you can enjoy the thrill of that 911 pushing you down the road (with impunity, am I right Howard B.?!).
The 3.0L were notorious for ruining (cracking) the air-box after a cold-start backfire (don't ask me how I know).
The cold start valve (?) would enrich the fuel mixture on a cold start (morning) and if the car backfired, the rich fuel mixture would combust and explode (crack) the air-box. As Angela said, vacuum is critical, and the car won't start with even a minute vacuum-leak in the air-box. The after-market 'pop-off' Danny P alluded to was the usual remedy.
Hope you are able to get your IM on the road real soon so you can enjoy the thrill of that 911 pushing you down the road (with impunity, am I right Howard B.?!).
The car starts fine ,but the warmer it gets, the more the rpms increase (2000 when hot) It does have a pop-off valve and I checked for a vacum leak with carb cleaner and propane with no results. I did some Lucas injector cleaner and it seemed to help and Ill try some BK this week. When you give it gas off idle, it takes forever for the RPMs to come down. Can someone recomend a good porsche book on the 3.0 fuel inj.system? Still crossing my fingers in the shifter.
P.S. Got my BK 44 cleaner from our parts dept. today. Tom
Tom, you really need to have the fuel pressures checked. IIRC, the cold pressure is around 75 psi at the return(to the tank) line, on the fuel distributor. When warm, it drops to about 35. If the pressure isn't dropping when warm, then more than likely it is the warmup regulator that is shot. That is if there are no vacuum leaks, etc. Most of the procedures should be in any repair manual for your year. I would buy a Haynes, Bentley, or factory. Stay away from Chilton and Clymer, the pits IMHO. Good luck.
The other reason for high idle after warm could be the air sensor plate not centered or it is really dirty in there. In other words, it is not coming down all the way to the stop, which means you are getting more fuel than needed at idle. If it is dirty, clean it, then run a .004" feeler gauge around the outside. If it won't go, loosen the bolt in the center and center it by running the feeler around, then snug it up. This is very crucial to proper working of the CIS.
By the way, I made my own pressure gauge for the FI, just got the Bosch fittings from a junkyard, and drilled and tapped everything onto regular old American pipe thread Home Depot stuff. Now you can buy the FI gauge for around $60, I think. I made mine 25 years ago.
The other reason for high idle after warm could be the air sensor plate not centered or it is really dirty in there. In other words, it is not coming down all the way to the stop, which means you are getting more fuel than needed at idle. If it is dirty, clean it, then run a .004" feeler gauge around the outside. If it won't go, loosen the bolt in the center and center it by running the feeler around, then snug it up. This is very crucial to proper working of the CIS.
By the way, I made my own pressure gauge for the FI, just got the Bosch fittings from a junkyard, and drilled and tapped everything onto regular old American pipe thread Home Depot stuff. Now you can buy the FI gauge for around $60, I think. I made mine 25 years ago.
Another question to the board....Are there any problems with removing the air pump from my car? Its just in the way and adds extra noise to the engine compartment. I do have a problem with 3rd gear but Im going to drive the car and work out any bugs and do the tranny this winter. All the shifter bushings were bad,but are easy to get to on this car. Thanks again for all the advice. Tom
Is there some DMV reason why you'e still running smog stuff on that car??
If not, GET RID OF IT!! Trash the air pump, the EGR, the air bypass stuff and anything else that even hints at smog control.
Plug the ports or hoses that control that stuff and it should run a whole lot better, and, yes....you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere because of that stuff.
gn
If not, GET RID OF IT!! Trash the air pump, the EGR, the air bypass stuff and anything else that even hints at smog control.
Plug the ports or hoses that control that stuff and it should run a whole lot better, and, yes....you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere because of that stuff.
gn