95 amp Alt.Install

This is my very first internal regular alternator.

I need a wiring diagram to install it My old one gave out two weeks ago. so I'm doing a upgrade. HELP!!

Easy... B+ to Batt/12v on Solenoid & D+ Dash Alt light.

Yeah but you have to remove the old external regulator which was under the rear seat in the T1 bug --- probably on your fire wall now.

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/gen_alt.htm

Thanks guys. That will do nicely this is for my D replica. It knock off about a month ago as I was about four mile from the house. All my test nailed it as the reg going out .

On my D the reg is in the engine bay in the upper driver side corner so I will rewire it all back to the point where the harness inters the engine bay to clean it up.

For the splice I will use a one inch long peace of 1/4 copper pipe. I can crimp then solder it. for a strong connection.

That will be a easy fix. Swapping the alt, is another thing?

I am told you can lift the fan shroud right off and out of the bay on a installed engine and change the alt without dropping the engine.

Or would I be better off dropping her out before I even start this.

I just got done removing a generator and replacing it with an alternator for a customer who's a speedster owners member.

DOn't forget to buy a new alternator stand as most of the early generator stands are too deep (distance between the fan shroud and the rear of the car) to accomodate the protursion on the front of the alternator.

You can swap the gen for an alt. without having to remove the engine.
Remove the fan belt and re-attach the other 1/2 of the pulley and hand tighten the nut (you won't lose the shims or the key way by doing this)

Remove all linkage, wiring and anything that's in the way of the circular tin that attaches to the fan shroud. Loosen the 2 bolts located on each end of the fan shroud, between the shroud and intake manifold. Remove the generator securing strap that surrounds the generator and remove the strap. Remove the 4 bolts securing the circular tin to the shroud. Pull the generator towards the rear of the car and as you do, the fan will be exposed. Gently lift up on the right and left sides of the shroud until the fan clears the generator stand. Remove the generator/fan. A little wiggling of the generator may be necessary. More that likely, you won't be able to totally remove the shroud due to the internal oil cooler but,you can lift it enough to complete your removal and installation.

You'll need an impact gun to remove the nut securing the fan. Remove the fan and don't lose the key way. Same for the front pulley... Remove the sheet circular sheet metal. INstall the circular sheet metal on to the new alternator, tap in the key way and install the fan and nut. tap in the key way and install the front pulley and nut.

Replace the generator stand with an alternator stand if necessary.
I might add that if you are going to remove the stock oil filler and down tube, it requires a special tool. You may be able to fabricate something to fit the locking nut that you can see when your remove the oil cap. Sometimes it cheaper to buy a new oil filler, cap and locking nut.


Don't forget to get 3 new gaskets, (2 paper and 1 tin gasket) for the new alternator stand

Reinstall everything and wire as per above

Thanks that will make it easier.
My replica has a 60 amp alt.with a external regulator. I wont have to bother the alt. stand.
I will remove the thermostat so the flap linkage comes lose easy the rest will be ok as long as I don't rush it and scratch the paint work, lifting up the shroud to pull and replace the alt.

Thanks again ,,As always all yall folks are very helpful.

where did you get the alt. from?

Hi. I got busy on another project. Sorry for not checking in .

I called around for 2 hrs to to find one in stock. and his were on back order.

SoCal Imports were out of stock. but do offer one.
It came from Kustom 1 Warehouse 1-888-997-9894 I got the plain the polished is even priceyer like M&Ms plain or chrome coated
plain $269.oo polished $319.oo

thanks I'll look them both up.

Alternator - FYI, NAPA has a rebuilt 55 amp alternator part #RAY138097 for around $100.00 with a lifetime warranty. I use NAPA parts on all my vehicles when ever possible. Never a problem, whatever the problem where ever you are there's usually a NAPPA Dealer close by.

Yelp I like NAPA and use alot of their stuff

I went up to a 95 amp. because of the radio and the fog lights. and I had another Crazy Idea I wanted to try out.with a 12 volt 11.amp draw blow dryer kinda toy I made a few years back.

I want to see how well it will work. and if the charging system can maintain it. It will burn your face if you let it get closer than a foot of you.

I may have a new idea for another kind of BN-2 heater but it would be electric. like this Hand dryer gaget.

I made this thing as a defrost booster way before. I got my BN-2

But Im afraid it might crack my winshield if it got very vey hot.

So sence I do have it,, and it will heat,, Im gonna try it as a floor heater

Like Santa said of the M&M people They do exist.

It is about 12inhes in lenth and the fan is 4 by 2 1/8 size, pretty compact for a homemade toy that will burn you easily.

I have just one problem I need a thermostat that is very acurate to keep it under the cook your shoes heat range. I does work.. Oh boy does it work.

Here what i figured the blower pulls 22 amps a huge drain. on its High setting. low is half that

A Upgrade from a 60 amp alt. to a 95 amp alt. still leaves you a little fudge room only 13amps. keep in mind your not useing the all of the 60 amps all of the time and that margin grows to about 25. in reserve most of the time and even more with a 95 amp. alt..

And it could be possible to realy push a 60 amp to its limit at one point or another.

Then ask the question would you rather burn up the exta fuel in a BN-2 heater? or as a added engine load caused by the alt drain form a compact electic unit.

I voted electric,, yes maybe less heat, but also less dangerious and more compact.

If I had a 125amp alt. Id try making a second unit and have twins up front instead of a y pipe. that would have pumped it up as good as my bug is.

I have melted my shoe in the bug my foot got right in front of the vent and I smelled rubber long before I felt it.


PS the Alt is On Now But rewiring the rear harness. is a bit testy

I found a new sound. the 95 Amp remanfactured Alt has a bad bearing in it. It didn't show at first But it got louder comming home last nite.

I can replace it no sweat, it's the outer one at the pully. BUT, really !! My luck with suppliers is getting CRAZY!! AAARRRGGG!!!

What to go way out of the box? Chrysler in the 80's actually made a 110 volt alt. for rear defrosters.
Just think, a nice toasty 3'section of electric baseboard in your speedy.

Very interesting ! Alan. It's to bad I couldnt find a bigger Alt. Can you narrow that down to a year and model Just so I can go spalunking through one of my chrysler collecting friends storage buildings.

I was rummaging through my spare parts and found a new still in the box generater bearing, all by its lonesome self . I wonder if it would possibley be the same as a alt. bearing.

Anyone want to venture a guess ?

It's got late so Im not going to tear anything apart this evening. I did find a alternater break down schematic but alas no part numbers.

I do see I will need to remove the brush kit block before I atemp to remove the bearing ,Just in case the shaft moves,while Im installing the puller.

Barry,
I know where I sourced the info, I just have to locate the book and will do on the weekend for sure.

Thank you Alan, I'll check in later then..

I just finished the bearing swap this evening. It took me longer to find the puller. than it did to fix the alt.

After I got home from a shoppin day trip, that left me num and wossy. Oui Vey.

Now it's behaving.

Ok found the information as mentioned in "How Yo Wire Your Streetrod"

Published 1988
Jack Sweeden
Streetrod Wiring
PO Box 14571
Okla. City, Ok 73113

....Some luxury cars('70's type Lincolns, Mercs and T'Birds) had a high output alternator used to supply 120 volts to the rear window defroster and had NO voltage regulator.
This unit can be identified by having a heavy right angle metal conduit coming from the rear of the alternator housing containing three heavy wires, no other wires are attached to this particular alternator.

....I assume that if you went to an established auto electrical shop spoke to someone that has been there since their high school days will know what you are inquiring about.
I bet in a pinch you could tack weld here and there !

You Just struck a cord.
I have seen one of thoses. it was on a 61 Lincoln 4 door Like the one President Kennedy was assinated in. Hemmings to the rescue. that wil be hard to find..

However I may have found another source sence the last post.

AC Propulsions builds electric cars. LIKE the EV-1 that GM KILLED.
,
They Have to have a electric heater kit.

So we may be on to something.

What is the purpose of the D+ wire? I'm wiring my car from scratch, is it the Alt. excitor wire? Which is only hot when the key is in the run position? Thanks

D+ is also known as the "61 blue wire" goes to the dash idiot light.
Can be wired with a 14 gauge wire.

Before I rewired mine it was already a blue wire from the regular, back to the dash.

I just spliced on and ran it back to the new alt . But before the wire at the alt was green.