A 2110 in a 1600 hole...

After great advice/confidence from here...my new 2110 is under the car, lookin' up at the hole. Question is...is there a secret way to raise it up into place? The Webers make it too wide to simply raise straight up.
And I'm REAL hesitant to unbolt a carb - afraid I'll put it out of adjustment. Any thoughts? Thanks again!

I think it is typical to have to remove the carbs and maybe the manifolds.

get you wrenches out, be sure to plug any holes with rags. actually it is very easy

didnt you buy the bergmann used motor??? if you did and have a VS you will need to remove the rear lid latch before the fan will clear. no need to take off intakes, just the carbs.
also the stock starter might not pull the 2387, need to get a high torque starter. any problems contact me.

Dennis,

It's always wise to re-check adjustment once the Carb's have been removed... If you don't know how, here's a do it yourself guide: http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=8818

In regards to your starter, if you have a 2110 as posted and not a 2387 as reported above, it should work OK but a high torque IMI-101 starter works wonders.

Dennis:

"is there a secret way to raise it up into place?"

yeah....the best way we've found is to use a Sears Motorcycle jack or equivalent - that way the jack will raise the engine level without letting it mofve around. It looks like this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P

Maybe you can borrow one from a friend for an afternoon?? It works LOTS better than a regular, roll around floor jack, as the engine stays level and the transmission input shaft should slide right into the clutch disk (with the usual amount of jiggling and turning of the crank to get the splines to line up).


"The Webers make it too wide to simply raise straight up.
And I'm REAL hesitant to unbolt a carb - afraid I'll put it out of adjustment."

Well, you're right - there isn't a whole lot of clearance between the frame rails and the carbs, so something's gotta give. Personally, I usually remove the entire intake manifold/carb assembly as a unit on each side and then just replace it once the engine's in there. Either stuff a rag into the intake ports on the head or use some soft rubber balls. Many people remove just the carbs and then the tops of the manifolds just squeak past. Either way works. If you are careful in removal and re-installation then nothing should get out of adjustment. After the engine's in you should perform a carb sync anyway, so don't worry about it.

While you can re-use the carb base or manifold base gaskets, I usually put on a new set, just to be sure they'll be OK.

Take your time, good luck and keep us posted on progress.....

gn

Larry,

That's a very clean and straight-forward article on adjusting carburetors. You really should list it in the "Knowledge" section.

Now, do you have another article on jet sizing that is equally comprehensive? ;)

Thanks

I can't post to Knowledge,

I started my own Tips, tricks and knowledge section at www.spyderclub.com

see: http://www.spyderclub.com/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=19

No, I don't have a DIY for jet sizing, there are just too many variables but the Weber book will give you a start in the right direction. It's a costly venture since most shops won't let you return jets regardless of use.

When I was building engines, I would start with small jets then I would use a jet reamer to open them up. A lot cheaper than buying a bunch of jets.

D, I just did this (by myself)last week. take the filters off and turn the motor diaganalli jack up carefully and turn once the carbs clear. Not much room but I did it. Get a helper if you can.

Wow...you guys came to the rescue en force (sp?). Gordon - I have been using a Sears motorcycle/atv lift - works great. Tomorrow, I'll pull the carbs and/or manifolds (sigh)...and lift 'er up. I just noticed I have the plumbing for a filter/cooler in place - so I'll be adding one 'a those, too. It'll be a while (little over a week?) before I fire this engine up...I got it from Pat Downs almost exactly one year ago. Think it's about time? Think I oughta maybe spray some fogging oil in the bores, crank it over a bunch w/o fire just to get it oily? I'll get the news comin'...and thanks a bunch again.

Dennis, read this: https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=16964

An update and a question: Carbs/manifolds out - a mere 4 hours of jacking, cussing, pondering...and then it slid right into place. So, now...the 17mm upper bolt - opposite the one next to the starter...how does a guy get at it to start the nut? Remove the fan shroud? Please say no...

On your back under the car Or from topside, pull the deck lid pins for better access. ~Alan

Lid off to see it...from under, contorted, to get at it. Thanks!

Just to add to the knowledge base...after taking off the carbs and one intake manifold in order to fit my engine up into the hole...I later discovered that the fiberglas panels around the hole on my VS were detachable (as seen from underneath)...if I had undone a few small bolts...I woulda had all the room in the world. Ah, well...

My friend Mr Vestal uses his car lift and a transmission jack on rollers a Sweet setup .

he starts the process with the car high sets the engine bell studs in the tranny , then goes for the upper drivers side bolt does all the lower end stuff RIGHT THEN , Then lowers the car to a good engine bay acess hight after removing the tranny jack. and does the rest. 40 or so minutes later depending on the type carb set up..Of course twins take longer, it's fired up and checked over. It rarely takes him over 2 hrs and that includes a road test and recheck.. Amazing!!