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Closed5 replies

a-arm front end

H hoghead
I am making a A-arm front end for my personal car and as there is some economy of scale, I could easily make a couple more if anyone is interested. I live in Thailand and my buddy has a CNC machine ship so given the low labour rates, the price will be competitive. The water cutting and CNC work is being quoted now so I will have a better idea of cost in a week or so.

This is a professionally engineered part, specifically designed for a Speedster as opposed to an off the shelf Beetle part. It is desinged for a flared fender car, 17 x 7" Porsche wheels, Porsche 996 brakes, QA-1 Carerra coil-over shocks, and rack and pinion steering. Pretty specialized application but the ultimate in brakes with race car like handling.
I am RHD here so am using an Australian Torana (GM) rack, but as you can see on the drawing the rack is the easy part.

This is designed to weld to the front transverse after removing the front frame horn, and ties into the 14mm sub-frame crossmember. I have a tube frame so it is a bit easier for me.

The cheapest way would be for me to ship the basic structure, and you buy the rack, shocks, and brakes locally.

I am retired,and this is a hobby not a business, so it likely will be a one shot deal for a group buy.

Any interest?
1957 CMC(Speedster)
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H hoghead
I am making a A-arm front end for my personal car and as there is some economy of scale, I could easily make a couple more if anyone is interested. I live in Thailand and my buddy has a CNC machine ship so given the low labour rates, the price will be competitive. The water cutting and CNC work is being quoted now so I will have a better idea of cost in a week or so.

This is a professionally engineered part, specifically designed for a Speedster as opposed to an off the shelf Beetle part. It is desinged for a flared fender car, 17 x 7" Porsche wheels, Porsche 996 brakes, QA-1 Carerra coil-over shocks, and rack and pinion steering. Pretty specialized application but the ultimate in brakes with race car like handling.
I am RHD here so am using an Australian Torana (GM) rack, but as you can see on the drawing the rack is the easy part.

This is designed to weld to the front transverse after removing the front frame horn, and ties into the 14mm sub-frame crossmember. I have a tube frame so it is a bit easier for me.

The cheapest way would be for me to ship the basic structure, and you buy the rack, shocks, and brakes locally.

I am retired,and this is a hobby not a business, so it likely will be a one shot deal for a group buy.

Any interest?

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H hoghead
I am sure the Eyeball product is well engineered, however I am not clear if the coil over shocks are included for 3000. Clearly the spindles and brakes are not included.

As I said, I am getting quotes on the water cutting and lathe work now and will have a better idea of bottom line cost in a week or so. This is a hobby , not a business, and given Thai labour costs, it should not be a problem to be competitive with other products on the market,

There is way more to it than price, and while there are several front ends on the market now, to my knowledge mine is the only one specifically designed for a flared fender Speedster using the 996/Boxter S wheels and brakes. The engineering behind getting great rather than just OK handling is not a trivial matter.

It looks like the best way for US users is for me to supply the basic structure including, spindle with integral caliper mount, and hubs. You buy the rack, brakes, shocks, rod ends and Energy Suspension bushings locally.
H hoghead
This is a custom engineered part for a flared body Speedster. I imagine that I could narrow it for a standard fender car if there is a demand. The Mustang II while the easy way out, has the wrong geometry for this application.

The rack is the easy part, and as you can see on the drawing it is only a connection from the rod end mounted on the spindle to the rack arm. If there is interest I will specify the right rack for LHD applications.

I have a tube frame, as most pans here in Thailand are a rotted POS. The front end welds to the VW front frame transverse - the part that has the transom hump, and a pair of bolts on each side - you can see these holes in the drawing. You will need to cut off the portion of the pan forward of the transom, which in my case was also a rotted POS so no great loss.

The subframe (CMC in my case) has a 14mm thick crossmember that, sits on the the transom hump. The upper 1 1/2 x 3mm tube part of the front structure ties into this 14mm crossmember.

Not as easy as a bolt on front end, but IMHO the advantages of the
Speedster specific geometry and Porsche brakes and wheels are worth it.
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