I have an old fiberfab kit and was wondering if it is worth adding steel support to the VW pan. I have a friend who can do some welding cheap. Anybody have any tips?
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I have an old fiberfab kit and was wondering if it is worth adding steel support to the VW pan. I have a friend who can do some welding cheap. Anybody have any tips?
Not worth the effort as the CMC already has the 2 x 4 steel box frame
A lot of guys add bracing to fix the "sag" that can happen gradually in the fiberglass of the car's rear.
Generally, the symptom manifests as a gap at the top of the door. Do a search of the site to see a pile of results.
Generally, the symptom manifests as a gap at the top of the door. Do a search of the site to see a pile of results.
As Alan said - the later CMCs came with a substantial steel perimeter frame --- you can see it in the build manuals in the library. As far as I know all FF/CMC came with it (doors actually bolt to it too). If you look at bodies that Rusty Tubs sells --- it is a separate purchase (to allow for use of a custom tube frame). If your's does not have the frame that's in manual -- then yeah, body needs it or you'll die fixing stress cracks. I would add steel to support the rear. I used a 1/4 x 2" 48" strip either side per a recent write up on the forum.
What are some things you would do while the fiberglass is off?
I seriously would not take it off the steel perimeter frame. Think you'll have issues with door alignment, warping and cracking of the fiberglass body. Why create extra-work unless it's a coastal flood victim.
Greg, can you post a link to the reinforcing strip write-up and some photos?
Mat:
I'm assuming you have a CMC/Fiberfab body, so, if you don't, please let us know.
Since it's well neigh impossible to remove the CMC fiberglass shell from the body's steel frame, I can only assume that your question was "What should I do to the pan before the body is installed"?
Nothing.
And don't be scared by some of the trash-talking on here about a pan based Speedter being weaker or more flexible (in a bad way) than a "Frame Based" speedster. I have a CMC with the "normal" sub-frame body and I've taken the time to test the hypothesis and have the pictures (and track time) to prove that it doesn't make any difference.
Just clean up the pan, replace anything rusted, get the brake system (both juice and e-brake) working, maybe even mount your seat glides and then get that body mounted and forge ahead. If you need to ask questions, then email Dr. Clock or me and we'll help you right out. It ain't as bad as it looks....
Gordon
The Speedtah Guy from Beaufort (now hiding out in New England for the Summer)
I'm assuming you have a CMC/Fiberfab body, so, if you don't, please let us know.
Since it's well neigh impossible to remove the CMC fiberglass shell from the body's steel frame, I can only assume that your question was "What should I do to the pan before the body is installed"?
Nothing.
And don't be scared by some of the trash-talking on here about a pan based Speedter being weaker or more flexible (in a bad way) than a "Frame Based" speedster. I have a CMC with the "normal" sub-frame body and I've taken the time to test the hypothesis and have the pictures (and track time) to prove that it doesn't make any difference.
Just clean up the pan, replace anything rusted, get the brake system (both juice and e-brake) working, maybe even mount your seat glides and then get that body mounted and forge ahead. If you need to ask questions, then email Dr. Clock or me and we'll help you right out. It ain't as bad as it looks....
Gordon
The Speedtah Guy from Beaufort (now hiding out in New England for the Summer)
Mike - Here's link - Paul McGuffin had some pictures that I generally followed. I used thick steel strip and heftier angle iron. I'll see if I have photos. The wider strip let me use 2 bolts plus I ran bolts thru the fiberglass splash side plans.
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=19473
https://www.speedsterowners.com/forum/readmsg.asp?t=19473