Adhesives

3M Panel Adhesive (any resin will work as FG is resin at core to start with).  Key is prep of contact surface - rough up to give resin a tooth and clean with acetone to remove any prior mold wax and body oils. 

Right! The key is the acetone wash taking off the wax. 

Any adhesive on any surface has one Sacred Rule: cleanliness IS Godliness.  FG welding should be relatively easy, and I cannor recommend one over the othe rhere.  I can tell you that Ihave used JBWeld to great effect.  I had a crack in my case right where the oil sender unit threads in.  This pipe thread was drilled a wee bit off the mark, and left one side of the boss too thin.  It cracked.  Cleaned it to within a millimeter of its life (see above), filed it down to shiny metal as best as I could, dabbed some JB on the crack area, let it set a day, and all was and is still good.  would another product work as well?  i dunno.  Perhaps.

JB Weld is good stuff, Kelly. Alumibond 3000 for the permanent repair...   :-)

Carl, even though it is a non-stressed area, vibration and expansion can and do occur. I would recommend using polyester or epoxy resin and a layer or two of fiberglass cloth on the back side for a permanent repair. If it is a crack, you grind it out with a Dremel until past the crack and fill it in with "gorilla hair", which is body filler impregnated with lots of little, short, and chopped fiberglass. You can use the gorilla hair to fill and smooth the top of the area you are joining.

I've done lots of repairs on fiberglass/carbon model airplane fuselages and that is how cracks are fixed. Usually we use a couple layers on the inside and one on the outside, lightly sanded then covered with regular body filler. Then prime, sand, and paint.

Never attempted a repair on a car though, but probably someday.

    Many thanks everyone for valuable advice.

    I should have detailed the body modification that I'm contemplating...and that's eliminating the awkward spacing between the front wheels and the wheel well by the addition of a scimitar shaped tapered ellipse.

    My intention is to securely ' butt glue' this piece into position and then, as Danny advised, a couple of overlapping glass cloth applications to the inside...topped off with a little body filler to the butted seam. Fortunately the speedster is black so I don't have to match color. A rattle can blending will polish it off nicely...Bingo! No more awkward spacing.

    Stroud's comment about Alumibond 3000 was confusing so I Googled the product and viewed a tutorial demonstration of its capabilities...WOW! Here's the solution to fabricating odd angled flanges, supporting braces, repairs, etc.

    Duplicating Mango Smoothie's luggage rack constructed of aluminum rods would be a cinch...could even be done on the dining room table! (I'm thinking of Jim's powdered coated black rack... and how spiffy it would look on my black VS!!!)      

I'm concerned an issue with doing that modification is that your wheel well would look awkward since it's no longer circular.

In my opinion, the proper fix for that would be to do a chassis mod to tweak the wheelbase. Depends on which direction the wheels need to move. Lengthening isn't difficult, it could be done just with a bolt-in extension for the torsion tube mounts. Shortening is much more involved with cutting and welding the framehead.

But it will be perceived as "circular"

It will be a tapered insert beginning at the apex (high point) of the wheel well then gradually increasing in width to about four or five inches. If I don't botch-up the surface finish this modification won't even be noticed.

A structural modification to the wheel base would certainly solve the current awkward gap, while creating a gap at the back of the wheel instead!... But my mechanical aptitude (and wrenching confidence) is minimal, whereas my background of decades in visual aesthetics & design solutions is top-notch.

I'm also modifying a louvered engine lid to get rid of a visually awkward element. Then perhaps in my future is an aluminum black powdered coated luggage rack now that I know it could be done with this Alumibond 3000. Mango Smoothly also modified his soft top frame work to a low bow...getting rid of that Conestoga Wagon profile. Hummm?