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What year build is your IM?  In the early CMC (they bought out early IM so same car as early IMs), the recommended way to lower the car was to cut and twist the beam tube and reweld it back together.  I'm guessing the only early adjustable beam back then was the extremely crude dune buggy inspired sway-a-way adjuster.  It might be difficult to install especially the upper adjuster while beam is in the car.  Are you sure the beam is welded on to the car.  I know Beck does that but havent seen on IM/CMC.

Image result for ve adjusta drop beam adjuster

Years ago I fount that a new Brazilian front beam with adjusters was about same price as modifing the old (often rusted thin at bottom ends) beam.  That was years ago though.  Appears a pair of adjusters today are only $30 (plus cutting/welding). CIP has new beams with 2 adjusters for $299 now.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...Code=ACC-C10-4198-DS

Dropped spindles give you a 2.5" drop - that is a lot for runing 16" wheels (I'd think)? 

Last edited by WOLFGANG

@Hair

FWIW, I have a VS and as the typical build from VS, it has a single (top) front beam adjuster.

IMG_0759

I later installed 2" drop-spindles for more aggressive stance. After I installed 2" drop spindles, I also adjusted the single beam for even lower stance (also lowered the rear via adjustable spring-plates). I think you may find that a single adjustable front beam would be fine (along with the drop spindles). Here is the car before I lowered it front & rear.

IMG_0281

Here is the car after drop spindles, lowering single font beam and lowering rear spring plates.

Calendar 2Big Res 5

I hope you find this info and visual reference helpful!  

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Jim,
Your car after lowering is the stance I’m looking for. The beam in your VS is like my IM but it is welded in, I have upper adjusters also. Are you running 4 wheel disk and 15 or 16” wheel with what of set if any. I think if I go with 21/2” drooped it would be perfect. Thank you for all you information. Did your mods change the ride very much? Thanks John

Sent from my iPad

More than about a 2" drop with only 1 adjuster will usually result in a ride that can only be described as horrible- it will feel like there's no suspension movement and the front is constantly bottoming out. 2 1/2" drop spindles (and as far as I know they're all 2 1/2"), otoh, use regular length shocks and retain full suspension movement. Now you can use an adjuster to go a little lower (if that's what you want) and not really hurt the ride.There is a slight downside with the lowered spindles, though- they do add 1/2-5/8" track per side and I've heard some cast aluminum 15" wheels (I think they were Rivieras?) just touch the bottom ball joint.

If I was setting up a front beam to go in a car I would go to the expense and trouble to put adjusters in both beams. The adjusters themselves are not expensive, it wouldn't be much more to weld in the 2nd one and with the ability to set ride height with both you don't have to worry too much about affecting the ride itself.

A lot of guys run stock replacement shocks on the front to keep the ride soft. If using Konis start on the softest setting. Over inflated tires will give a hard ride as well.

Hope this helps. Al 

WOLFGANG posted:

MUSBJIM said in a previous post that his wheels where faux Fuchs 5 1/2 x 15" - don't recall the size tires he's running.  Think the offset was 5" or near that.  Most VS are swing rear axel that gives extra rear wheel space over IRS (for disc brakes or less off set/larger rims and tires).  

I believe Jim's running 185/60-15's all around. Swingaxle will be narrower than irs only if using early axles and tubes- '66 and earlier type 1 are about 1 3/4" narrower (per side) and '67 (again type 1) about 1"? narrower per side. I believe type 3 swingaxle is the same track as irs.

PS- The additional width offset spindles add is not normally a problem in a Speedster- there's easily enough room for 185's on 5 1/2 or 6" rims (as Jim's car shows) and I think 195's as well.

Last edited by ALB

Not sure how to handle putting adjusters in a car where the beam is welded in.  I know Beck does that on their tube chassis - and since a '98 IM assume that too is a custom tube chassis.  Sure makes it hard to adjust caster with shims.  Hair has only the lower adjuster currently. Without removing the beam it would be near impossible to install an upper adjuster - since you could only weld 1/2 way around.

Hair posted:
Jim,
Your car after lowering is the stance I’m looking for. The beam in your VS is like my IM but it is welded in, I have upper adjusters also. Are you running 4 wheel disk and 15 or 16” wheel with what of set if any. I think if I go with 21/2” drooped it would be perfect. Thank you for all you information. Did your mods change the ride very much? Thanks John

Sent from my iPad

John;

My 2015 VS ('67 swing-axle) has 4-wheel discs, with 15x5.5 Empi fake Fuchs (Porsche pattern 5mmx130mm) with 4" offset (for wheel/tire clearance with swing-axle). I was going for a lower & wider stance so I run 185x60 tires (22psi front, 24 psi rear). If you have OCD you might have some angst over the effect tire diameter may have on speedo accuracy, but in actuality any difference is negligible.

As Al mentioned, the 2" drop spindle added 5/8" wider track per side (however, no  tire clearance issues). In front, the 4" offset wheels gave the appearance of a narrowed beam, which was not the look I wanted, so I added 2" lug-centric spacers (billet aluminum) to bring the wheels/tires closer to wheel-well opening.

s-l1000

The drop spindles allow you to lower the car while keeping your existing shocks and torsion bar spring rating, so ride (comfort) is not really altered. However, with the front suspension modifications (spindles, offset, spacers) on my VS I do notice a bit of understeer in tight corners. I'm more of a cruiser than a racer, so its not an issue for me.

980784_10209215314043841_153670275360784566_oBig Res 4

Hope this onto is helpful!  @Hair

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Last edited by MusbJim
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