Anyone have thought on this for our cars?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=249650
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Anyone have thought on this for our cars?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=249650
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=249650
I don't see any problems with installing that on one of our cars; it just seems so "Lowrider, Bling Bling" to me. Maybe it's more feasible on a customized wide body Speedster.
I agree with Recardo.My car is lowered,but that is as low as I want to go.More than that and it will look like a "low rider".
I would love to install this, been thinking about this for a while. I would just feel sorry for the glass at the bottom, if it hit the ground.
Gabe
Gabe
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The only accessories missing would be the 100-spoke gold-anodized Daytons, green neon lights in the wheel wells and the "Pharoahs Car Club" plaque in the grille.
Orale pues!!
MUSBJIM (aka; El Guapo)
Orale pues!!
MUSBJIM (aka; El Guapo)
Don't knock it till you try it. It set up correctly they ride pretty smooth. I've got a adjustable front beam with air shocks. Haven't got around to doing the rear. It requires some welding. I think airkewld is coming out with a bolt on system.
Think of it this way. you can set your ride height for normal driving. Raise it when entering a steep driveway. then lower it when you hit some twisties.
Think of it this way. you can set your ride height for normal driving. Raise it when entering a steep driveway. then lower it when you hit some twisties.
The only challenge you face is when it's sitting so low and your rear-end butterflys. this is not good for your tires nor the ride... Look at the kits top pix and you can see the rear tires in their "Butterfly" stance.. Not good folks.. Now if you were not driving and just "Dumped" it when you parked it, then whatever rocks your boat, but I am kinda old school still like Jimbo, and I say leave these kits to the "Lowriders" where they belong! "Viva la Raza" oh yeah... Happy Cinco de Mayo everyone!
Speedster "D"
Speedster "D"
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I'd have to agree I wouldn't want to go that low..
Was thinking more to riase the car for driveways etc. I've ruined more than one exhaust tip and my car isn't even that low.
Was thinking more to riase the car for driveways etc. I've ruined more than one exhaust tip and my car isn't even that low.
I agree with Ricardo. Its more of a custom thing. Since I am a custom kind of guy,it looks cool!!!
Only thing about it is you need a storage tank(sometimes 2)and a compressor(s), if you want to raise/lower it at each wheel or F to B. As you know there is not much room for extra stuff in a speedster.
I have a front airride system for my Ghia.
Only thing about it is you need a storage tank(sometimes 2)and a compressor(s), if you want to raise/lower it at each wheel or F to B. As you know there is not much room for extra stuff in a speedster.
I have a front airride system for my Ghia.
El Guapo, you hit it on the nose. Another application, if they work independently from front to rear, is maybe it would be a good way to level our chassis out. I tried twice to level mine, and there's still a three inch height difference from front to rear. It sure would be nice if it sat level.
actually the best set up would be the FSSB. front, back and side to side. Meaning you have four valves, one for each tire. I have a set of air shocks on my truck (rear only, single valve)when carrying a load. My truck is also lowered. The shocks works fine when going straight, but when you make a turn all the air from one side goes to the other, hence the truck bottoms out, this is because I have only one valve for two tires.
Just a front to back system will work fine for driveways and such. But the FBSS will make your car handle the twisties like they were meant to. Ive also used them to level the car. I got a friend that is much heavier than I. all you gotta to is raise his side a little.
It the best of both worlds, Good riding. plus performance and the ability to adjust everything in between.
You will have to have some space for the compressor and a air tank. the compressors are pretty small. and the air tanks comes in various sizes starting from I think 1 gallon. You can also omit the air tank and just run the compressor, but the time it take to raise the car gets alot longer. If you run a air tank you can use a fitting and hose to fill a tire or such.
As far as space goes, you can always use the rear seat area. basically build a box around it and carpet it. As an example in my rear seat area I've got a 10" sub woofer, an amplifier, the ecu for my efi and a MSD box. plus around 6" clearance to the top of the speedster body.
All in all an air ride setup could cost well over $1500 plus the adjustable front beam. But if you got the skills like Cory it should be way less.
Just a front to back system will work fine for driveways and such. But the FBSS will make your car handle the twisties like they were meant to. Ive also used them to level the car. I got a friend that is much heavier than I. all you gotta to is raise his side a little.
It the best of both worlds, Good riding. plus performance and the ability to adjust everything in between.
You will have to have some space for the compressor and a air tank. the compressors are pretty small. and the air tanks comes in various sizes starting from I think 1 gallon. You can also omit the air tank and just run the compressor, but the time it take to raise the car gets alot longer. If you run a air tank you can use a fitting and hose to fill a tire or such.
As far as space goes, you can always use the rear seat area. basically build a box around it and carpet it. As an example in my rear seat area I've got a 10" sub woofer, an amplifier, the ecu for my efi and a MSD box. plus around 6" clearance to the top of the speedster body.
All in all an air ride setup could cost well over $1500 plus the adjustable front beam. But if you got the skills like Cory it should be way less.
Ben, you flatter me.
I'm a one-trick howlie from West Foster Village in Aiea; I just got lucky and met the ace VW mechanic down the street over a friend's car a few years back. I'm certainly not a mechanic. (More like an idea guy who can weld and do what I'm told by the ace mechanic guy.)
Question on the air ride: you mentioned the adjustable front end. I've welded the crap out of my frame head so that everything's tied in. I've also welded my axle beams to the roll tubing that passes by them, and my beam length is six inches shorter -- so my suspension is really, really stiff. My torsion and rear axles are six inches shorter, too.
Can you put the air bags into play with a completely rigid chassis? They'd have to look like (and probably perform like) air shocks, since that's the only place I've got any movement. The torsion is still adjustable, and the lower arms of the rear suspension are still flexible, but they're really, really stiff.
If I ran over a kukui nut, I'd hop about a foot.
I'm thinking I might be stuck with what I have now for a very, very long time.
It would absolutely kick a** to see our cars side by side. I think we're headed in the same general direction, right down to the fog lights!
I'm a one-trick howlie from West Foster Village in Aiea; I just got lucky and met the ace VW mechanic down the street over a friend's car a few years back. I'm certainly not a mechanic. (More like an idea guy who can weld and do what I'm told by the ace mechanic guy.)
Question on the air ride: you mentioned the adjustable front end. I've welded the crap out of my frame head so that everything's tied in. I've also welded my axle beams to the roll tubing that passes by them, and my beam length is six inches shorter -- so my suspension is really, really stiff. My torsion and rear axles are six inches shorter, too.
Can you put the air bags into play with a completely rigid chassis? They'd have to look like (and probably perform like) air shocks, since that's the only place I've got any movement. The torsion is still adjustable, and the lower arms of the rear suspension are still flexible, but they're really, really stiff.
If I ran over a kukui nut, I'd hop about a foot.
I'm thinking I might be stuck with what I have now for a very, very long time.
It would absolutely kick a** to see our cars side by side. I think we're headed in the same general direction, right down to the fog lights!
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I think the air ride would be pretty sweet in your ride. If you look at airkewld front suspension for the ball joint. I think they replace the torsion with solid bars. http://www.airkewld.com/parts/products.php?id=4
The front beam then acts only as a pivot point. Then the air shocks do the rest. I just went to napa and looked thru a catalog to find the correct size Monroe shock. I think they cost me about 60 bucks. I run mine at 70 psi at normal ride height. The max is I think 100 psi. I'm not sure how heavy your front end is compared to mine. If yours is heavier than mine I'm not sure if 100 psi would be enough. I would'nt want to steer you in the wrong direction. The rear would have to be an air bag because they can support more weight. I think the air ride syspension would work well on your ridgid frame. Man that thing should handle like its on rails.
The front beam then acts only as a pivot point. Then the air shocks do the rest. I just went to napa and looked thru a catalog to find the correct size Monroe shock. I think they cost me about 60 bucks. I run mine at 70 psi at normal ride height. The max is I think 100 psi. I'm not sure how heavy your front end is compared to mine. If yours is heavier than mine I'm not sure if 100 psi would be enough. I would'nt want to steer you in the wrong direction. The rear would have to be an air bag because they can support more weight. I think the air ride syspension would work well on your ridgid frame. Man that thing should handle like its on rails.
I'll look into the air-ride business when it's running, but I wanna see what she handles like before I do anything nutty.
Right now, with one guy pushing it across a garage floor, she seems a little sluggish.
:)
Right now, with one guy pushing it across a garage floor, she seems a little sluggish.
:)
Hey Ben,
You wouldn't happen to have the part number of those Monroe shocks would you? I am thinking about doing this air ride thing. I already have the compressor, an extra front end, air valves, computer air ride controller, and air tank. I just need the shocks, air hose, and fittings. I would like to find the air shocks locally and cheaper than AirKewld. Thanks.
Paul
You wouldn't happen to have the part number of those Monroe shocks would you? I am thinking about doing this air ride thing. I already have the compressor, an extra front end, air valves, computer air ride controller, and air tank. I just need the shocks, air hose, and fittings. I would like to find the air shocks locally and cheaper than AirKewld. Thanks.
Paul
Hi folks
I have seen the air ride kit that are pretty expencive . What I beleive is needed is are coil over shock kits that be easily adgusted, for both fron and rear.
some ting you can just bolt on,
I have seen the air ride kit that are pretty expencive . What I beleive is needed is are coil over shock kits that be easily adgusted, for both fron and rear.
some ting you can just bolt on,
Paul, let me look in the garage. I'll let you know on Sunday
BT,
How is the ride with the air shocks? My beam is already lowered and I am putting on dropped spindles. My beam is not adjustable and some air shocks sounds like it would give me some lift if I needed it.
Thanks,
Scott
How is the ride with the air shocks? My beam is already lowered and I am putting on dropped spindles. My beam is not adjustable and some air shocks sounds like it would give me some lift if I needed it.
Thanks,
Scott
Paul,
my box says MA 709. I hope that helps.
Scott,
It rides ok. I have not gone a long distance with this car yet. The other cars that I have, have much better front suspensions so I dont have a point of reference.
I also have dropped spindles. I dont have an adjustable beam. My car was too low when I drove it. I will feel much better after I make the shocks adj. from inside the car.
Bryan
my box says MA 709. I hope that helps.
Scott,
It rides ok. I have not gone a long distance with this car yet. The other cars that I have, have much better front suspensions so I dont have a point of reference.
I also have dropped spindles. I dont have an adjustable beam. My car was too low when I drove it. I will feel much better after I make the shocks adj. from inside the car.
Bryan
BT,
So you have a stock beam and dropped spindles or was your beam lowered previously?
Thanks,
Scott
So you have a stock beam and dropped spindles or was your beam lowered previously?
Thanks,
Scott
Bryan,
Thanks! Yep that was what I needed. I will be stopping by the local NAPA or Autozone here soon.
I have been looking at AirKewld's front air suspension "kit". I am not sure that I like the idea of running some bolts into a rod with internal threads to hold the trailing arms. Even with the thrust bearings, it seems to me that the bolts would come loose. I am thinking that a threaded rod all the way through the torsion tubes with castle nuts (and still using the thrust bearings) would be better. If so, I am thinking that the "kit" from Airkewld is the price of shocks (<$100) plus $25 in hardware. Am I missing something here?
Also, I see people like Barry suggesting the coil over kits. I would think that the hardware from a coil-over kit would be exactly what I am looking for. Any one have some sources handy for coil-over kit parts (don't need nor want the coil-over shocks). Thanks in advance.
Paul
Thanks! Yep that was what I needed. I will be stopping by the local NAPA or Autozone here soon.
I have been looking at AirKewld's front air suspension "kit". I am not sure that I like the idea of running some bolts into a rod with internal threads to hold the trailing arms. Even with the thrust bearings, it seems to me that the bolts would come loose. I am thinking that a threaded rod all the way through the torsion tubes with castle nuts (and still using the thrust bearings) would be better. If so, I am thinking that the "kit" from Airkewld is the price of shocks (<$100) plus $25 in hardware. Am I missing something here?
Also, I see people like Barry suggesting the coil over kits. I would think that the hardware from a coil-over kit would be exactly what I am looking for. Any one have some sources handy for coil-over kit parts (don't need nor want the coil-over shocks). Thanks in advance.
Paul
I had an adjustable beam with lowered spindles. I sold the beam and got a regular one. I didnt like the ride and it was too low with the spindles. I couldnt get out of my driveway without a lot of 'cussing.
Baja bugs have been using thru rods for 30+ years. You can get them from any buggy shop. I just backed off my grub screws and used the springs as my thru rods.
You could go with coil-overs. Check out the ads in Hot VW. I wanted to be able to adj my front on the fly. Air shocks are the only way to do that.
On those Monroe shocks I forgot that they rub slightly on the top trailing arm. I moved my hole over about 1". I welded a brace on to that . It really wasnt that much of a problem (the rubbing that is)but I had my welder out and I need something to mess with.
Baja bugs have been using thru rods for 30+ years. You can get them from any buggy shop. I just backed off my grub screws and used the springs as my thru rods.
You could go with coil-overs. Check out the ads in Hot VW. I wanted to be able to adj my front on the fly. Air shocks are the only way to do that.
On those Monroe shocks I forgot that they rub slightly on the top trailing arm. I moved my hole over about 1". I welded a brace on to that . It really wasnt that much of a problem (the rubbing that is)but I had my welder out and I need something to mess with.
Bryan/Ben,
Forgot to ask if the MA709 Monroe air shocks were ball joint or king pin. I am hoping ball joint since that is what I need. Thanks again.
Paul
Forgot to ask if the MA709 Monroe air shocks were ball joint or king pin. I am hoping ball joint since that is what I need. Thanks again.
Paul
Paul, I've got the Red 9 Design front coil over kit on my car. They call it a lowering kit but they can supply any length of shock (as could you yourself by doing some research..and save some $).
I bought the torsion tube rods first. I have not put a lot of miles on my car since installing them 4 years ago but the rods do not look like they would come apart. They used to use bronze bushings on the ends but have changed to either a hardened steel or stainless. The whole bearing assembly is held in by an allen head bolt that is thread locked in place. I think they charged me about 200 pounds sterling which is a bit high and I'm sure you could have them made for less althoug Red 9 has invested a lot of R&D on their stuff so I figured it was worth it...you'd only have to make one mistake or one incorrect set to probably be over their price. Ricola Racing site has the dimensions of the rods should you want to make them or have them made.
The fellow from Ricola (real nice guy to chat to and its worth it to check out his site as he's doing things like building up a bolt on wishbone front suspension to replace the torsion bars) said that he didn't like the threaded rod through the torion bars because the nut on each end has to protrude through the trailing arms. Even though this protrudes just a bit, that amount is enough to considerably reduce the turning circle as the wheels will rub on it when cranked too much. He advised the Red 9 units and I have been happy with them.
I bought the torsion tube rods first. I have not put a lot of miles on my car since installing them 4 years ago but the rods do not look like they would come apart. They used to use bronze bushings on the ends but have changed to either a hardened steel or stainless. The whole bearing assembly is held in by an allen head bolt that is thread locked in place. I think they charged me about 200 pounds sterling which is a bit high and I'm sure you could have them made for less althoug Red 9 has invested a lot of R&D on their stuff so I figured it was worth it...you'd only have to make one mistake or one incorrect set to probably be over their price. Ricola Racing site has the dimensions of the rods should you want to make them or have them made.
The fellow from Ricola (real nice guy to chat to and its worth it to check out his site as he's doing things like building up a bolt on wishbone front suspension to replace the torsion bars) said that he didn't like the threaded rod through the torion bars because the nut on each end has to protrude through the trailing arms. Even though this protrudes just a bit, that amount is enough to considerably reduce the turning circle as the wheels will rub on it when cranked too much. He advised the Red 9 units and I have been happy with them.
I thought Ricola manufactured cough drops......sorry I couldn't resist.....
Personally I like Buckley's....
Actually the Ricola site has a lot of stuff and its interesting to see how he does things. Those of you with damaged fiberglass bodies (I was just going to say damaged bodies but that would have been too easy for some of you...) should look at the repairs being made on the GTR project.
Website...
http://www.ricola.co.uk/
I wonder if he does all that work in that small garage?
Actually the Ricola site has a lot of stuff and its interesting to see how he does things. Those of you with damaged fiberglass bodies (I was just going to say damaged bodies but that would have been too easy for some of you...) should look at the repairs being made on the GTR project.
Website...
http://www.ricola.co.uk/
I wonder if he does all that work in that small garage?
I don't know if it is right or not, but I went to Oreileys and they said the ma709 won't work on a balljoint beam. The top mount is different. After looking through the book some more the ma711 appears like it will work. It is a shock designed for the rear of a 67 camaro and has good travel tolerances for a lowered front end. I ordered some so we will see how they work. Hopefully I won't have any clearance issues like bt mentioned.
Scott
Scott
As for the clearance issuses. Airkewld says to grind down the torsion arm a little
Sorry, I havent been back for a while.
It is for a ball-joint frontend.
Its only rubbing slightly. You could easily grind down the arm. It is against my nature to take the easy way.
Bryan
It is for a ball-joint frontend.
Its only rubbing slightly. You could easily grind down the arm. It is against my nature to take the easy way.
Bryan