Advice on installing hard fuel line in or near transmission tunnel

I personally would not recommend any type of flexible lines where you can't see them or have ready access to.

I'd put hard lines as I suggested before, available at just about any local FLAPS store. Ni-Copp hard lines in any length by the foot. Flexible enough to bend by hand without kinking, but still solid. Protect with grommets and clamps if you can. I used 60" 5/16" on my Spyder EFI. If you need to, you can cut a flared end off and install a compression adapter to either a thread or a hose bib. Also available in 3/8".

I used Derale transmission cooler hard line compression adapters.

Thanks @DannyP hard lines are definitely the goal. You ran yours alongside the transmission tunnel, under the carpet correct? Where do you get the grommets and clamps? Any installation advice? Are these the lines NiCopp lines you ran?

In a pan Speedster you can access the tunnel through the plate between the top and bottom axle beams.  I don't think I'd want a gas line running through the passenger compartment (and I don't think it's legal in most places).

@ALB great points. I have to check underneath mine, b/c if my memory serves me correct, there's plate steel welded on the bottom side of the transmission tunnel (this is a 2009 Beck Speedster Subaru build). @chines1 can you confirm how to access the transmission tunnel?

On another note, I just came across an informative video from Earl's on the various different types of hard tubing (aluminum, NiCopp, stainless, etc...) and various tools and fittings and figured I'd share.

Earl's Easy Form tubing seems like a good choice. Thoughts?

You should have removable fiberglass panels on the underside.  They are glued, bolted and tabbed with glass, so they aren't easy to get off the first time, but thats the best way in.

I'll second what Carey said.  I removed one of those panels to make it easier to get to my clutch cable and several usually messy jobs immediately became easy.

I keep thinking that someday I am going to replace the copper fuel line running through my tunnel.  I bought some nylon trimmer line and the plan is to pass it through the old fuel line and leave enough beyond the end for the new fuel line.  Then pull the old one out and the new one in.

Of course, I have no idea if this would actually work.

@chines1 is this the fiberglass panel you're referring to? Is that black stuff the glue you're referring to? What glue product is that specifically, so I know how to reassemble?

So you're saying to remove I need to remove the bolts, cut the glue, then wrestle the panel up/down/side to side until the tabs are free?

@Nick posted:

Thanks @DannyP hard lines are definitely the goal. You ran yours alongside the transmission tunnel, under the carpet correct? Where do you get the grommets and clamps? Any installation advice? Are these the lines NiCopp lines you ran?

Those are the lines that I purchased. I ran my lines inside my tunnel, but I have a Spyder. The tunnel is less than 3" by less than 1". I purchased generic grommets and rubber-lined clamps at NAPA. There is a box steel bulkhead the lines go through. I put two layers of regular heat shrink tubing over that area.

@Nick yeah that's the one (there are 4 or 5 total that can be removed), but someone has been into that one already.  NO idea what sealer that is. Back then we used windshield butyl strip, never dries and stays pliable so you can reuse it.  Today we use black silicone.

That looks like seam sealer to me.

Looks like construction adhesive to me.

@edsnova pretty sure @DannyP is right. It's definitely not construction adhesive. Looks and feels like seam sealer.

Seam sealer should be better to cut through