Again CB ThinLine Sump Installation

Bear with me, this is from my phone....    ;&gt

"Are the existing case mounted studs to be removed?"

Most likely, because of the thickness of the add-on sump, they might not be long enough.  Longer ones can usually be found at your local hardware store.  Take one with you as they are 6mm(?) metric.  If the existing studs are long enough to protrude past the sump flange and get the nuts on, use the existing ones.

"They mention something of screws and the only ones are 2 Allen head shorty's for mounting the strainer to the Jaycee cover, which I have an will use."

????????  Usually, the strainer just fits over the studs of the case or sump.  Don't know about screws to hold the strainer screen on - That's a new one for me.  REMEMBER, though, that for the extended sump to work, you need to extend the oil pump pickup length with the extender tube they supply with the kit.  It's best if it is welded or brazed on, but if all you can do is use the clamp, then so be it.

"Also, not sure if I want to use the Red Loctite for its rated for major torque removal issue in the future, or go with the Blue.  "

I have always used Red Hi-Strength for the stud ends in the engine case AND the stud ends in the extended sump.  That is, for the threads of the part of the stud going into those flanges.  I have used lockwashers under the nuts of both the case studs (holding the sump on) and lockwashers between the copper washers on the sump plate and the sump plate nuts.  Those sump plate copper washers are super-important and so is the torque of those outer nuts.  I never put locktite on the threads of the nuts in either location, just the stud threads in the flanges.  If you're worried about something falling off, use nylok locknuts.

If you have a sump plate with a drain plug, then use a single paper gasket between the engine case and extended sump, another gasket between the extended sump and the strainer, and a third between the strainer and the sump plate.  Goop them all up with Permatex Blue RTV before assembly.  Alternatively, you can use the red silicon sump gaskets from Aircooled.net.   I like them a lot.  If you use those, delete the silicon RTV.

Gordon, I'm super clean on this now; thank you very much.

The CB ThinLine with its large opening on the none case mounting side has a large diameter for ease of mounting the sump to the case. The diameter is so large the strainer will not fit (too small in diameter). Therefore, CB plate that came with the kit has two threaded holes to mount the strainer. In my case I will be using the JayCee plate and mount the strainer to it with those two Allen screws that came with the kit- assuming they are long enough. I'll go then with mounting onto the JayCee plate and watch for the proper tube length to be long enough.

You mentioned local hardware store for longer 6mm stud, if not found will Allen head bolts work as well, or stick to loctite studs with nyloc nut exposed to hot oil? 

"You mentioned local hardware store for longer 6mm stud, if not found will Allen head bolts work as well, or stick to loctite studs with nyloc nut exposed to hot oil? "

I suppose you could use the correct threaded, allen head bolts for sump to case, just make sure they have a lockwasher under the bolt head.  I've used Nylok nuts in hot oil environments with no issues - they're good (I think) to about 350-400ºF and your oil will stay under 240º.  

OTOH, you could also source the longer studs from McMaster Carr or maybe even CB Performance if your local Ace Hardware doesn't have them.

Be sure the contact area (case and new sump) are clean of any oil residue. Wipe them with acetone. You may want to let it drain overnight.   I like to put some loctite 974 or Jb weld on the pickup tube in the case. Don't put it on the extension tube. Call me if you need to.   916-255-9776.   

I replaced the stock studs with longer ones and used nylock nuts and washers to secure the new sump to the bottom of the case. If you use the correct sized allen bolts triple check they are not too long and bottom out before the new sump is secured to the case.

While we're discussing sumps, I have an old sump that I'm thinking of adding on to my buggy's engine.  I don't have the extended pick-up tube.  What would you recommend using?

You mentioned old sump. The one everyone is going towards is the cb thin line unit. The older sumps besides being thicker or deeper were not designed to install in simple matter. They required longer studs and the newer sumps have cut outs on the bottom to allow one a straight shot with a ratchet and socket to secure it to the case. Berg now offers special nuts so you don't have to change the studs. Reminder when changing the studs the oil pickup mount must be secure. I tried many home made wrenches over the years to tighten that nut. As for pickup tube you can order them from either cb or scat and berg. You won't know the diameter until you remove you sump plate. The kits usually offer three different size tubes. 

Good luck

Gordon- thank you for the great ideas and to watch for. The best action at this point is look at to what I have to work with when its time to replace the oil. In the meantime, I want to be ready with all the stuff to do the job; except the stud replacement and proper pickup tube length.

Anthony- very interesting you used fixing the pickup tube extension with Loctite 974  or JB Weld vs the hose clamp. Not sure what to think about this; concerns me of compatibility hot oil and leaching into the lubricant. I'll give you a call on this.

thank you everyone,

Michael

Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:

Gordon- thank you for the great ideas and to watch for. The best action at this point is look at to what I have to work with when its time to replace the oil. In the meantime, I want to be ready with all the stuff to do the job; except the stud replacement and proper pickup tube length.

Anthony- very interesting you used fixing the pickup tube extension with Loctite 974  or JB Weld vs the hose clamp. Not sure what to think about this; concerns me of compatibility hot oil and leaching into the lubricant. I'll give you a call on this.

 

thank you everyone,

Michael

 I use the sealant in addition to the hose clamp, sealant is to keep from sucking air

Since my engine is a stock 1600 I may not bother to install the sump.  I also have a fairly large Gene Berg sump that I had in my IM, but switched if out for a CB thin line. I got tired of  bottoming it out on speed bumps.

Anthony- very interesting, never thought with that much oil depth one could pull air between the pickup tube joint.