Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

What carb are you using?

My SP/Solex fit with a 3" filter & lots of room to spare, but I'm swapping to a 1904 with a single Weber IDF & I'm thinking I'll have to cut the deck lid to fit it. Then again, a super short K&N might work. Velocity stacks are definitely out of the question.

Let us know what you come up with.
Hi,

I'm using a stock SOLEX 34 PICT/3. An original Oil bath filter is way too tall and the aftermarket unit I bought also prevents the lid from closing.....I can chop a hole in the lid, (under the grille), but if there is a better solution......

Cheers

Gerry

PS Car all wired and operational, starts on the key, even the horn works :)
Hmmm, I was going to suggest the CB low profile manifold Leon mentioned above. Unfortunately it's only for Weber IDF's.

The PICT fits fine under the lid of my CMC, but it's a single port. Sheesh, I'd think somebody else would have run into this (no pun intended).
The short K&N might be your best option.
Gerry, on my 34-Pict-3, I'm just using an After-Market Filter bought from a VW Parts dealer. I used to have a flatter, smaller one, however this one has changeable filters compared to the last. It is NOT the complete answer as without a hot-air input, carburettor-icing COULD be an issue. I'm always planning to braze a hot-air input on the bottom, however it's right up there with a list of MUST-Do items like MAKING-A-LIST-OF-ALL-ONBOARD-SPARES and WHERE-THEY-ARE or trying to solve THE-IGNITION-NOISE-ON-THE-RADIO (current solution, radio through the iPod/Mobile Telephone) etc.

Regards, Mike

Attachments

Images (1)
  • engine4
OK, I think I'm just gonna clearance the lid and reglass......I only need a tiny wee bit, but I think I'll make it a bit bigger/taller to ensure proper airflow.

While in the engine bay I thought I'd try and work out what to do with the couple of odd shaped bits of fibreglass sheet that came with the car...None of them seem to fit anywhere :)

So I made up some templates of the space between the rear frame and the engine "skirt", I'll cut some sheet tonight and close off the space, then figure out what to do with the curved section behind the rear frame....

Cheers
Gerry
Gerry, if you can get your hands on some big card stock, corrugated cardboard or posterboard, it's really easy to make a template for the skirting around the engine compartment.
The gap between the engine tins and the rear of the car are the hardest space to actually draw out, but if you do it in sections and then make a composite (tape the pieces together, dry-fit them and remove them again), you can transfer the composite to sheet metal very quickly.
Aluminum cuts pretty easily with a Dremmel or other cutting wheel, and the install is as easy as a drill and rivets. It is helpful for the sheet metal to go above the engine tins on the crank-pully side (back of car) in order to drop the engine without taking the tins loose.
Cleaning up the edges of the sheet metal is also easily accomplished with a Dremmel or a de-burring tool, and using rubber edging with an aluminum c-channel for the edges makes it look "factory." You should remember to crimp the aluminum channel every couple inches, in order for it to seat well and stay put.
Bead-rolling the tins is also a nice touch.
My car has that treatment but without the rubber edging, and we did a decent job on a car a couple years ago using the bone-basic template method. It took less than four hours, start to finish.
In place of a Dremmel, we had tin snips. It was still an easy job.

The first picture is of the car that got the stock treatment. The second engine compartment picture is mine.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 090708 engine tins
  • 032507 Flat tins V
OK Update on this....(please excuse crappy phone pics....)

Turns out I had two issues, the air filter and the hinges.....

The hinge was bottoming out on the fanhousing....some cutting and grinding took care of that.

I cut out the area of the lid that sits above the filter and remade it as you can see in the pics...Gives me 1/2" clearance and probably another r 1/4 inch when I put in a seal around the lid....The grille also needed a wee touch with the flap disk to clear my new "hump"

Cory, I user cardboard templates to get the shape in the same way as you did, I also have a stock beetle seal that I'm gong to try and fit...

Cheers
gerry

Attachments

Images (3)
  • Air filter clearancing _Small_
  • Enging lid fits _Small_
  • Lid hinge mod _Small_
Yes
VW PRODUCTION:
1-Early-1200cc(36+hp)
2-Mid-1500cc(oil cooler inside hsg)
3-Later-1600cc(aka "doghouse" style housing-extra area allowed for oil cooler + thicker[wider] fan)
Above is a basic break-down based on MY awareness.
Later config. (3) considered best, but full-flow systems can compensate for hot-rodded early motors. These are all vertical-fan-engine configurations, obviously. Fan housings are now available w/wo heater snorkels. I've read that fan housings from VW's "Thing" model had better air flow, but I can't post any reference to substantiate this at the moment-I'll repost when I find the article. Others will help out here, I'm sure.
(Search SAMBA and ShopTalkForums/STF)
Hi Mike,

The mods listed above solved the problems...

Looking at pics of other speedie engines, a lot of them seem to have a more compact housing....My doghouse housing seems to have been the issue....

I made some templates for the space around the engine and cut the shape from sheet steel, cut a 2" rubber trim and bolted it to the flange. I still have the frame/rear body space to fill, that will need a bit of glass work.

I managed to bust the hood hinge.....hood was up, I dropped the car off of the jacks a bit quick, prop gave way, slammed the hood, broke the hinge.

Cut a new hinge from steel and fitted today.... :)

getting there !!!

Cheers
Gerry



just saw your post and I am now experiencing the same problem. I had an engine built and decided on a single carb. Turns out the cover wont fit. Just put the engine in yesterday and was pumped up until I noticed the air cleaner was causing big problems. I am glad I read your post as I was worrying how I was going to deal with this set back. Time to get the Dremel tool out and start some fabricating.
Hi Bob,

WIll take a while with the Dremmel :)

I use a very fine (1mm) slitting disc on a 4 1\2" angle grinder, takes seconds !

For the "hump", I made it out of card, cutting folding and taping till it cleared, then I covered the mould in brown parcel tape and finally laid up fibreglass mat to around 1/8" thick. The mould pulled out fine.

Next, I put on the air filter, put on about 3/4" of packing on top, covered in plastic. Dropped on the moulded piece, the packing ensured clearance, and glassed it in. Some trimming and bondo finished the job !

I had to trim a little from the underside of the grille for a good fit !

Cheers
Gerry
Hello Gerry, I took the big step today and cut the car!It hurt. I didn't use a Dremel but a Fein tool and it went well. I also had to remove extra to clear the fan housing. I had to do some fancy cutting on the grill and it fits as well but I don't think I will be able to fabricate a cover for the air cleaner. There just doesn't seem to be enough room. I have a Weber carb and the air cleaner I have seems to sit higher. I guess it won't be a problem if we aren't driving in the rain and my wife just said that, that wouldn't be happening. Your fiberglass fabrication looks great by the way.
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×