Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:ALB posted:What the heck?
If you are referring to Jim's 1/2" MPT x 1/8" barbed fitting, I agree-- "what the heck?"
If you are referring to Ron's stand-off, I can tell you that this little thing makes more difference than all the what-not we talk about regarding holes, airflow through the engine compartments, etc. I have no idea why it works, but it does.
I was commenting on Jim's situation, Stan.
Thank you all for the valuable input. The hole stays and I'm building the dam for the back piece right now. Thanks, Scott
Jim.....Just curious. When you found that fitting, did it just fall out or did you need to push it out with some force ?..........Bruce
Jim Kelly posted:Yes, someone did put that fitting inside the hose as a flow restrictor, but their intent was malicious, not helpful. Unfortunately, slowing down coolant to that extent creates all kinds of problems after the engine reaches temp. It's just like having a thermostat that never opens fully.
Wow. IN the line.
In situations like this, my son is fond of saying, "somewhere, there are banjos playing".
I love reading the forums here, Im planning a speedster hopefully for next year. I ride air cooled Ducati motorcycles and am learning about airflow to the engine with fairings etc. Is there any benefit to a louvered wheel well in the rears to add flow? would it create a negative pressure problem or vorticies and avoid the fans? Just curious to those with the knowledge. Love the Forums.
Nd.
I've seen some with side vents/scoops like the Porsche Boxster (DrClock did one or 2). Some have also added a scoop under the car to direct air flow up to engine. Most manf put a hole or cut out in the firewall need the intake fan for more air.
Louvers in wheel wells might give better air to the carbs???
Ndpendant posted:...and am learning about airflow to the engine with fairings etc. Is there any benefit to a louvered wheel well in the rears to add flow? would it create a negative pressure problem or vorticies and avoid the fans? Nd.
Nobody's done any specific testing of air movement in the rear wheelwells, so the only things we really know are that it's a positive (although probably somewhat turbulent) pressure zone, a great place to hang a full flow filter and extra cooler, and holes on the sides (about where the air filters sit) help as well, as this positive pressure will feed air into the engine compartment, as the demands of the fan and carbs make the engine compartment a negative pressure area. Depending on the air movement where louvers are placed (with the wheel/tire spinning I'm guessing that air flow isn't smooth in that area) they could help or hinder air intake into the engine compartment. As air moves over a louver (over the hump to the open side) it creates a negative pressure zone, so depending how it's placed it could actually pull air out of the engine compartment (although that could be put to good use as well!).
We do know that a hole in the firewall helps. I think if we could find a way to get air to exit the engine compartment, the firewall hole (and side holes if you have them) would be even more effective, as radiated engine heat would be removed by air moving through the area and not sucked back into the fan and carburetors. Al
Al, when l get an hour spare, I'll rig up the GoPro in the engine bay near the louvres in the inner wing and attach some ribbon to see what happens. Just for curiosity.
aircooled posted:Longfella...No I don't sorry to say. Did have them but they went out in the last garage clean up. It's really not a difficult job to make them if you have the engine out and the car up on stands. You can sit on the floor inside your engine compartment comfortably with some good heavy duty poster board, scissors, and cut-to-fit one. Use my photos to get the general size and concept. I bought some of the flat fiber glass sheeting that Kirk at VS uses for the other panels around the engine. (VS is only 1/2 hour from me). He squawked a little about giving me some because he gets it from the people who make the bodies and was short on it. If you wanted to use this, ask him to send you some or you can make your own on a piece of melamine from home depot, fiber glass matting and resin. Band saw or saber saw for the cutting......You could make this shield out of sheet aluminum or sheet metal as well. I made mine so it's removable. Two of those tabs rest on the 2" by 2" square tubing. I drilled and tapped the tube to accept 10X32 machine screws to fasten down the shield. The rest of the edges of the shield are sealed to the body with silicone sealant.....nice and air tight when finished and still removable with the engine in. I used Justice Brothers epoxy to "weld" the pieces of the fiber glass shield together. This is a really clean and nice looking installation when completed. I painted it black to match everything else. I hope this helps you.......Bruce
I'm not near as smart as Bruce so I did the same thing by jamming heat resistant black foam into the gap between the body below the taillights and the Fiberglas panel. I also made two triangle shaped foam pieces that filled in the holes behind the back of the inner fender wells and the rear of the body. This sealed off everything pretty well and since I used foam like the h gasket around the tins it's pretty safe. It's really hard to see the foam so I'm OK with it. It's not as elegant as Bruce's filler panel but since I couldn't find any of those fiberglass sheets it's the best I could do and it seems to work.
FPCOPO.....FRANK.....Long - time NO HEAR from you !! Theres a lot of people out here that are "purists" about their Replicas but Frank is Not.......BUT....I Think he has a really beautiful car.....And if i didn't go with what my car currently looks like...I would have one that looks like Frank's. Frank is a long time Hot Rodder. He still is active in local Hot Rod Events, but he has ventured over into our, Deep Abyss, of the ("underworld realm") of replica Speedsters. He is (what I call), a perfectionist, so you can imagine what all his other projects must've looked like.......Beautiful to say the least !!.
Anyway. Frank .......Thanks for telling us how you how you took care of that MAJOR air leak that just sucks up hot engine air and re-circulates it back to the engine. Your choice on how you did it is probably the easiest and most economical way to fix it, I have ever heard of. The real point is that you eliminated one of the most serious ways of having an engine running HOT.....AND....Did it in an area that will not be discovered by any casual or half way serious, looker........SALUDOS FRANK !
P.S. Frank....post some recent photo"s of your car !
Hi guys, sorry for digging up such an old thread.
I have a VS speedster built in 2011 pretty new to me. Been enjoying it, not that in Houston it’s getting up into the 90s F I noticed that my oil gauge is reading a little higher than I think it should at speeds. Or under load.
my car has AC but I am talking about with the AC off and the top down. Honestly running the AC has little impact on the oil team gauge. I have all the tin and a fresh engine to body seal. Not sure if I have an airflow issue or just a hot running engine. 1915 with duel singles. might be a little lean but the plugs look good. Just a little gray as they should be.
I was thinking of adding a remote oil cooler. (Not in front of the fan) but in the wheel well. Might try the lid stand off for hot days.
many thoughts are welcome.
A temperature controlled Setrab oil cooler with fan is always a nice addition. The fan cooled oil helps and the added volume of oil is a plus.
You really should start with trying to figure out the actual temperature of the oil while driving because the Chinese repop gauges in these cars are notoriously inaccurate. You have choices. You can get an expensive dip stick that reads oil temp or get a thermometer with a long enough lead to reach into the oil reservoir. Take some readings before, during (in a variety of driving conditions) and after to see what are the actual temperatures
This way you’ll know what your temps really are. Either way I’d buy a quality cooler like the Setrab and have it installed.
Very easy to add the engine lid prop to keep it open a bit. I'd do that and see what results you get from that.
Can you grab and hold onto the oil stick or is it too hot? Verify oil temp with a meat thermometer down the oil stick hole , you gauge may not be accurate .
WOLFGANG posted:Very easy to add the engine lid prop to keep it open a bit. I'd do that and see what results you get from that.
Nobody likes doing this, but it's by far the cheapest/easiest thing you can do, and it works.
Thanks for all the feedback
i can grab the dipstick. However it’s very hot. Just not sure how hot is hot...
I agree current cheep dash gauge so I don’t trust it.
whats the “good” temp range if I use a meat thermometer?
anyone running a head temp gauge? If so what one?
remote oil coolers what’s the best if I end up going this way? I figure it can’t hurt.
I Will be dropping the engine in the next week or so to address some pushrod tuber seals. So I figure this is the time to do it all.
Get a meat or candy thermometer, either conventional mechanical or a digital version that has a probe about as long as your current dipstick.
Go out for a normal drive to get the engine hot.
Pull the regular dipstick and insert the candy/meat/digital one to the same depth - If it's the same depth you can check it with the engine running but there is a big risk of touching the fan belt so just shut things down while temp probing.
The "normal" range is:
180º - 205º = "normal" street temps.
210º - 215º = Getting hot
215º - 220º = Getting really hot
Over 220º = Pull over and let it cool off, then find out why it's running hot.
If you find that it's in the "normal" range on the thermometer, then spring for a new temp sensor.
What full flow do you recommend d to go with that cooler?
If you're inquiring about the oil feed coming off the pump cover, I recommend the Gene Berg pressure-relief iron cover.
There are other brands, but that one is reliable and doesn't fail. And it adds back in the pressure relief that you lose when going full flow. Of course, you'll have to get the main oil galley tapped for an oil line fitting, and also plug the oil pump outlet to send the oil out of the cover. The pressure relief is good to have, oil pressure can be about 200 psi if the weather is cold and the oil is thick, and you rev the engine before it has a chance to warm a little. People have blown hoses, coolers, and oil filters without some form of pressure relief.
If that's not the question you're asking, the perhaps rephrase, Gomer.
