What do you guys think of a setup like these? Has anyone tried something similar as I hear they cut down a lot of the intake noise.
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For me, the intake sound of dual webers is not noise at all! I love the sound.
Not sure what the advantage of that set up would be. Likely you are restricting the intake somewhat. Maybe this helps low end torque?
Originally Posted by Chris Hendrix:
For me, the intake sound of dual webers is not noise at all! I love the sound.
Not sure what the advantage of that set up would be. Likely you are restricting the intake somewhat. Maybe this helps low end torque?
Second that; my thoughts exactly.
I doubt that would do much for restriction, a lot of the "sand guys" use a smaller tube that that about 2" if memory serves me corect, witch to me would be too small. if the webbers are too loud you can make some vinyl hats to go over them and exten down to the base of the carbs,not to tight not real thin stuff you dont want it to suck up to the airfilter.you can also put stifeners in them to keep it from doing that.they also work great for carbs that are out in the weather(not realy an issue with these cars.) just love the diet coke on the bug above!!! pvc pipe caps fit perfect and are paintable.
Looks a lot like the intake system on the Porsche GT-3's they run in the Rolex series. I'll try to find a photo from our trip last January....gn
I'm wondering if those were built that way from the start or if it was just the simplest way of finishing it after removing a turbo.
No they built them that way. They were looking to reduce engine noise on the cars. CSP makes a box that is like 1000 bucks so these guys made a DIY solution. I really like the way the second picture setup looks. I bet these would sell pretty well if someone made these. I am guessing they used some turbo hats and just welded 3" tubing into them. I would try it but the only hats I found were made of aluminum and I don't think my mig can weld that.
the tubes can be welded with low temp rods&map torch(Ive done it before for my wifes honda element), and probably the connector to the turbo/sand hats too with a short peice then siliycon hose connector. filters are cheep. might do it for 356 if it's too noisey,currently the carbs are louder than my muffler on my street bug.
Kevin after looking at your car I know you can do pretty much anything with these cars. You do exhaust setups there also Kevin?
You should see about making them Kevin. This one from CSP is about 1000 bucks and a lot of guys on the samba are looking for something similar to help kill the noise. I found a ton of posts on it. How much do you think one like the second pic would run?
Originally Posted by hbkmat:
Kevin after looking at your car I know you can do pretty much anything with these cars. You do exhaust setups there also Kevin?
You should see about making them Kevin. This one from CSP is about 1000 bucks and a lot of guys on the samba are looking for something similar to help kill the noise. I found a ton of posts on it. How much do you think one like the second pic would run?
I am an A-1 header dealer and I can do custom exhaust stuff.
As far as the second intake system picture you posted, I'll get some pricing and get back to you.
or just build air cleaners like some of the oe porsche had. round housings with a long snorkel, a high flow muffler could be incorprated also. Ive only seen 1 that had the long snorkels,most are short ,just a few inches.the long ones were about a foot if memory serves me corectly.
I guess I'm one of the few who don't like intake noise.
Here's a photo of a air cleaner kit that I like:
There are two problems with this kit:
1. It's VERY expensive
2. It mounts in the front, and I have very little clearance. So little, in fact, that I have to use 'shortie' air cleaners to clear the body.
I would love a kit that mounts behind the shroud (and where I have plenty of clearance). I have enough room back there because of the way my IM was built (long story)
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Those do look nice. I know the ones up top would be simple enough to make and you would not have to break the bank to set one up. I would be really curious to hear a before and after with these.
I am working on this right now. Sometimes, I like it when my car is as friggin' loud as it is, sometimes not. I especially don't like it when the top is up, 'cause then it goes from loud to DEAFENING! Over 100, like 105 dB under full throttle. I used to think it was the exhaust, which is loud and I put a couple silencers on it, a Vortek cone insert and a straight through Flowmaster in series. They cut the edge off, both on long trips are good. Neither one increases back-pressure, but trim the noise. With both, I can feel a very slight change in willingness to rev, but not much.
The real problem is intake noise, which can be fun when you are ripping up some pavement. Not so much top up and cruising on the highway to Carlisle or the Pumpkin. I am going to try and set up the CB turbo air cleaner ends, some silicone connectors, exhaust tubing and a cone filter. Won't be the same as for you guys with Speedsters, but I will take before and after photos and dB readings.
Loud is cool and all, but after 27,000 miles, I am pretty sure I know where some of my hearing loss is from!
If you take the area of two 44mm throats and add it together, it is about 1.73 " diameter, so 2" I.D. is plenty. Factor in 36mm vents and 2" is overkill. I am talking per carb, if you do one filter for all four barrels a 3.5" I.D. tube is all that is needed.
I am ordering some stuff from CB tonight. I need some exhaust tubing, some bracketry and my mig. We will see how it turns out 
Great let us know. Found one more setup. This one looks very clean.
there are many things that cause flow losses ot just size of the tube. 2" would be kinda small for a large performance engine,but there are many factors to consider .will it work?yes, will it slow it down or hurt performance?possiably.will it give you back some hearing?probably not but it will be nice to hear something else for a change. just make sure turns have a nice raidi.and blended in well & bellmouthed where needed.
Wow. That loud?
I can't really say how loud my car is ... because it is still being built. 
I have owned two 912's in the past, both were 60's models. Both had the factory muffler, and one had euro heat exchangers, and the other US spec headers / heat exchangers. The euro model had dual dellortos and the US spec had dual webers. Both sounded amazing at full throttle and nice and civilized at cruising throttle. I did not consider either of the cars abnormally loud at all.. although I was in my 20's back then.
Both did have the factory sound pad in the engine bay, and likely some sort of sound deadening material in the cabin. Perhaps that is all that is needed to quiet your car down?
I am sure there are some people on here that have installed dynmat and can report their results.
Originally Posted by DannyP:
I am working on this right now. Sometimes, I like it when my car is as friggin' loud as it is, sometimes not. I especially don't like it when the top is up, 'cause then it goes from loud to DEAFENING! Over 100, like 105 dB under full throttle. I used to think it was the exhaust, which is loud and I put a couple silencers on it, a Vortek cone insert and a straight through Flowmaster in series. They cut the edge off, both on long trips are good. Neither one increases back-pressure, but trim the noise. With both, I can feel a very slight change in willingness to rev, but not much.
The real problem is intake noise, which can be fun when you are ripping up some pavement. Not so much top up and cruising on the highway to Carlisle or the Pumpkin. I am going to try and set up the CB turbo air cleaner ends, some silicone connectors, exhaust tubing and a cone filter. Won't be the same as for you guys with Speedsters, but I will take before and after photos and dB readings.
Loud is cool and all, but after 27,000 miles, I am pretty sure I know where some of my hearing loss is from!
If you take the area of two 44mm throats and add it together, it is about 1.73 " diameter, so 2" I.D. is plenty. Factor in 36mm vents and 2" is overkill. I am talking per carb, if you do one filter for all four barrels a 3.5" I.D. tube is all that is needed.
I am ordering some stuff from CB tonight. I need some exhaust tubing, some bracketry and my mig. We will see how it turns out
Yes, that loud! Chris, 356/912 motors are nowhere near the state of tune of my motor. And yes I get the restriction and flow stuff you are talking about Mark.
Max has the factory air cleaners on his 2109, and his car sounds good without that intake resonance.
I really don't like adding weight to the car with respect to dynamat. I would rather replace the air cleaners and extend, adding maybe a couple pounds.
Parts ordered........
These are the oe 912 setups. They look pretty cool also. Would these fit on webers?
What does the hose connector do?
I did some work on the air cleaner/noise issue today. I have to upload the pics from my phone later. Anyway, 12" from the carb, hood open, I measured 90 dBA at idle. I removed the air cleaners, installed the turbo hats and a cone filter on each side and measured again. It now reads 82 dBA at idle, hood open, 12" away. Impressive, I say, as each 3 dB is 50% reduction in perceived sound level. I am going to route the air filters further away from the firewall and see if I can get some more quiet!
I didn't drive it though, roads are still wet and salty.
Keep us posted, Danny. Civilizing mine a little bit would go a long way toward making the Carlisle trek less painful.
Wow that is good to know and very impressive noise reduction. Now the next test is checking performance. Keep us posted and upload some pics when you get a chance.
I put them on Facebook, I will see if I can get some up here. Sorry, it was 84 dBA, not 82. 6 dB is still very impressive!
2nd pic on the 1st post looks awesome. I'd be interested in pricing on that too.
Ya maybe Coolryde can give us a quote. I just went to his shop the other day to have him press in some ball joints and too bad it was raining because his new turbo motor sounds like a beast.
I can do that.... I'll work on it and post something up here....
Kevin, do you ever sleep?
Yea, but I'm still thinking about work. Trying to start a business and keeping one going is more then a full time job by itself, then I throw in custom car building and a family...... I have to shut down once a week for just about a whole day to recharge the batteries.... 
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Another SACO hydraulic clutch unit. Make sure the pushrod is absolutely straight with regard to the cylinder's central axis, or the M/C will eventually fail due to asymmetrical wear. Ask me how I know.
I would rather have the push rod about 2x that long if possiable(less angle of the dangle)
how heavy is the front system?
and on the rear if your not using the torsion bar, why not put both pivots in line? move inward one forward.(also thought about "A" arms on the rear too.) you do nice work.
Originally Posted by marksbug:
I would rather have the push rod about 2x that long if possiable(less angle of the dangle)
how heavy is the front system?
and on the rear if your not using the torsion bar, why not put both pivots in line? move inward one forward.(also thought about "A" arms on the rear too.) you do nice work.
Moving both pivots inline with the torsion tube axis would make the rear suspension a pure trailing arm setup. You would have no negative camber gain with suspension travel/body roll.
Would be ok for the dragstrip, but horrible oversteer on the street.
Mark,
Our front end is actually 4 lbs lighter then a standard VW beetle beam front end. As for the rear end with out getting into all the geometries of the rear suspension, let me point out a huge problem sith your sugetion. If you place the pivot points of the rear arms in line the trailing arm will move straight up and down, without any camber gain. Why is camber gain importain? Without camber gain, as the body rolls it would also lay the tires over on their sides, thus lifting the tread partially off the ground.
Beside it would make the rear kit not be a simple bolt on part. it would require modifications to one of the strogest parts of the VW pan.
Suspension is one of the hardest things for people to understand because of all the moving parts, not to mention the main frame of the vehicle which is also moving. So to try and imagine all of this movement and understand how each thing effects another thing, and then how it effects handling is behind most. Kind of like complex calculas problems on a scientific scale.
Please understand I am not trying to offend any of you, it is just simply more then I can write out in this forum.
Originally Posted by marksbug:
I would rather have the push rod about 2x that long if possiable(less angle of the dangle)
how heavy is the front system?
and on the rear if your not using the torsion bar, why not put both pivots in line? move inward one forward.(also thought about "A" arms on the rear too.) you do nice work.
Kevin, tell me about that wheel in your photos. What's the bolt pattern?
It is a new 17x8 Ford Mustang wheel 5 x 114.3
I see, I havent dont a whole lot with the irs stuff,as I come from the v8 drag world.been into these things for about 12 years. I dont like a lot of neg camber when lowered.and since I like big&tall tires the trailing arm are needs to go up to get the car down.Id thought about clockable bearing housing to adjust the camber, or raise the bushing end,I had even made an excentric bolt assy for the trailing arm bushing, but havent tested it,too much other stuff got in the way of personal projects. (any one offended by learning something isant worth teaching ) I know it needs some camber ,but toomuch is too much but it depends on what is being done to what for what reason,for my bug that had 19.5x33 rear street tires, a little is a lot, and the amount of oe is a bunch too much.
The rear semi-trailing arms have a few degrees of negative camber built in. When lowering the rear of an IRS car a significant amount (~3"), the amount of camber adjustment in the spring plate to trailing arm connection isn't enough to get this back to spec. So the trailing arms can be flipped left to right to cancel out the excessive negative camber that lowering that much causes. This does require cutting off and flipping the shock mounts and bump stop mounts on the trailing arms. Also you aren't left with much suspension travel going that low without additional clearancing.
Getting the toe right may require extending the spring plates, not sure low you can go before you run out of toe adjustment.
If you take a close look at the Mendeola setup, they actually use an eccentric mount for the outer pivots to set camber.
Ive never thought about using outer pivots for setting camber just inner pivots,but I dont plan in coil overs st this point,but I could use the new AVO's on my roadsters(racecar).but I dont see that happening. Ill deal with this when I get closer to having this car strowed appart& seeing just what I have to work with. I knew about fliping the arms. I might make the inner mount adjustable, just havent got there yet ,the 356 will have to waite till there is room in the shop& it is the only thing in the shop(jobwize).have to sell the racecar Im not going to finish& build a 2110 for a guy in alabama witch I finished coating bearings for lastnight.
Similar to these 911/930 inner adjusters?: http://www.tarett.com/images/9...allations%5B1%5D.pdf