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I'm ordering new front brakes.
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Are you doing the 2 or 4 piston calipers, Tom? Do you have enough tire on the ground that they'll be put to full use?
PS- Very cool. Very, Verrryy cool....
I'm going with 2. My left front rotor is looking not great and instead of just replacing, I'm planning to upgrade. I'm hoping to make it to the winter, but I'll have the parts sooner now & will have options.
Tom, I have a front disc 2 piston Wilwood kit from Airkweld on my IM. The 2 piston brakes work great, but if I had it to do again I'd go with the 4 piston kit. I like to overdo things when it comes to brakes, and the 4 piston calipers look so much nicer. 
I hope he's improved his bearing/rotor fit since I bought mine. To get mine to fit I had to freeze the bearings and heat up the rotors. Even then, I had to use a lot of force to get the bearing in place.
I also think my caliper bracket is on the thin side, considering how long it is.
Ya just can't help yourself, can you Tom? 
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Tom. I'm assuming you have the front vw torsion beam suspension. You definitely have some options if you are vw up front. The Airkewld stuff looks quality. The folks using 911 hardware also have options. I've got all 914-4 stuff up front including struts, torsion bars and brakes. Don't know how many of you have owned a 914-4, I had a 73, and the front brakes leave a lot to be desired. I have done a lot of research about 914-4 front brake upgrades and there ain't much. It's either going all 911 up front which is $$$$ or doing something creative like using BMW 320i front calipers. Thinking about adding some Bimmer. Please post some pics on the brakes. Believe it or not I'm actually thinking about going with a vw torsion beam up front if I build another IM. That way I can use the 4 piston Airkewld brakes up front with wide 5s. At this time front vw torsion beam is the only front suspension that will work with wide 5s. Happy father's day.
OK. 4-piston it is. BTW, it looks like it's an easy step to wide fives with these (not that I have plans to).
Wilwood!
So, I hope to have my car forever.
But... if I were to buy a replacement, it'd be for a better front suspension. I know a beam can be made to work wonderfully (blah, blah, blah), but it'll never be a 911 front suspension (or an A-arm, for that matter).
Getting a new car built with a VW beam is something I'd never do again. They are horrible from a packaging standpoint, especially as compared to a longitudinal 911 torsion bar set-up (which can be set up for a giant fuel tank, and a trunk big enough to swallow a couple weeks worth of luggage, spares, etc.).
Factor in that every 911 suspended car I've ever driven feels not even a tiny bit "flighty" at speeds way over "the ton" , and it'd be the one reason I'd consider swapping out what I've got.
Wide 5s are cool, and all-- but a suspension that works that well is just better.
Stan, your explanation is spot on !
A 911 front end is so night and day different to torsion beams you just have to experience it. You should also get sways, good rubber and brakes.
For me wide 5's are nice but you are seriously penalizing yourself.
my 2 shekels
Tom, here's another source for a front disc brake kit with Wilwood 4 pot calipers:
http://www.vintagev-dubs.com/s...ont-disc-brake-kits/
Not sure how the prices compare with Airkweld.
I have to agree with Stan and Ray on the 911 suspension set up. I've never driven a Speedster that is so 'planted' to the road as my current one. There is just no comparison in terms of ride, braking, steering, etc. It's a completely different car.
I would love Wide Fives, but there is no way I would ever go back suspension wise. Go for the 911 set up. Seriously, once you have that, you won't care what wheels you have.
Besides, the 911 brakes are fabulous, too.
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I will give reviews once I get a few miles on these.
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The issue for me at this point is that retrofitting the 911 front end to my car would mean hacking it off in front of the windshield, and re-doing all of it. Even I can't justify that.
911 front suspension is something i only considered and did on a new build but it could be done more easily on an im with 914 front on retrofit
Yeah. Sigh.
You can justify it, Stan. You just need more time to think about it......it will come to you.
Stan, when has a difficult, expensive retrofit ever stopped you before?
Joe, is that an Airkweld kit? If so, I'd be interested in knowing easy it was to install the bearings.
Would the 911 be better then an A-arm set up?
The Mendeola set up looks pretty darn nice.
Ron O posted:Stan, when has a difficult, expensive retrofit ever stopped you before?
Way to go, Ron! Sorry Stan, but that's the laugh of the day, right there!
Ron O -
I installed an Airkewld four wheel disc system. Pretty straight forward, and easy. Bearing install was not an issue. Manufacturing tolerances and quality control were the issue. Run out on the rotor tip was over 5X the allowable.
I had to replace one rotor and one hub, had all four hubs re-ground at a local machine shop, still have grabbing in one wheel and constant squeal that brake jell will not get rid of. It took way too long to get replacements and I have spent well over 200 hours trying to make mine right. I hope they got things right for Joe's set.
crhemi (Bill) posted:Would the 911 be better then an A-arm set up?
The Mendeola set up looks pretty darn nice.
From a packaging standpoint, it's pretty hard to beat the entire suspension being located directly under, or outboard of the frame rails. Doing it that way opens up acres of prime real estate in the cavity formerly occupied by the beam.
An A-arm set-up welded/bolted to the frame rails and utilizing coil-overs could be better, but the vast majority of speedsters use the pan, which is unsuited for this (or to the 911 setup for that matter). Hence: the A-arm beam replacements.
They are all every bit as inefficient as a beam with their use of space.
I decided to hold off because I clearly don't know what I'm doing.
Tom Blankinship posted:I decided to hold off because I clearly don't know what I'm doing.
Good idea. Time to put SOC's research skills to the test. 
If you don't mind building your own kit there is a guy in Canada that builds quality calipher brackets for a beetle front suspension that will fit both Wilwood and Porsche calipers.
He makes high quality stuff. If I had it to do again I'd buy the caliper brackets from vwengineering and build my own kit. It's a good option If you feel comfortable putting your own package together and would be the least expensive way to go.
Craig, when I got my car back from Henry my Airkweld front brakes squealed loudly EVERY time I slowed down.
Very annoying.
Henry thought the squealing might be the caliper brackets vibrating because they were too long and the metal too thin.
I took out the pads and sanded them down and also gave the rotors a good sanding to get rid of any glazing. I also put anti squeal compound on the back of the pads.
That fixed the squealing problem for my IM.
Yup my car is a unique setup. Vast majority of folks have vw torsion beam up front. The big dogs have the 911 struts, torsion bars and 911 brakes with 5 x 130 wheels. I've got all 914-4 stuff. 914-4 struts, torsion bars, 914-4 brakes (weak) and 4 x 130 wheels. My options at this time are:
1. Make the best of my 914-4 parts. My front suspension is good but not great. Brakes suck. BMW 320i front brake conversion is cheap and effective. Great option.
2. Switch out to all 911 stuff up front. My car will accept this. Will completely transform the handling and braking. Will be expensive and will require switch to 5 x 130 wheels up front and in back. Is this investment really worth it when I'm pretty much stuck with no more than 145 hp with my current engine?
3. Wait a while and build a new car with 911 running gear. Really think 911 or suby power would be fine. Running gear and brakes are the key to performance. 175 hp I really think is adequate.
The big dogs in the pack are very persuasive. Hmm.
Depends on what the 911 set up is going to cost...
If I was living in Mexico I would be a chihuahua I guess I like what I like ... and I can share my experience . We might be persuasive but really only to a point, and you will still have the final decision cutting tht check
The real big dogs... are full 911...they being the super dog speedsters for sure.
As for me I disliked going to the P dealer for parts in the past and now even more so. I want value no matter what my budget is.
I stayed away from P powertrain ...
I have though the 911 suspension and brakes as that makes a big difference.
Powertrain is Japanese, because I can get it repaired anywhere, and the torque is awesome.
Ray
As I've said before, my perfect car would be an IM with full 911 suspension/brakes, the extended IM/6 wheelbase, a 915, and "pied" rear fenders for 8" rubber.
I'd run a 200-ish HP 2.5+L Type 4 (dry-sumped with HAM 2-plug heads) and never look back.
THAT would be perfect (for me).
That's a nice set up, Stan, and the first part is just right.
But, a six cylinder is so much fun. Did a little tracking at Mosport on Saturday, and it was so nice to be able open up that 3.6 engine. 
Nice! Sounds like fun It's the other guys on the track that I worry about. Here in Calabogie some lose it ...
Ray. Mosport is very different from Calabogie. I drove at Calabogie once, and really did not like it. Too compact, and too many sharp curves.
Mosport has long, gradual curves (except the hairpin at Moss Corner), and nice straights.
Great Bob, I won't drive Cala at this time. Hope you had fun.
Ron O posted:Craig, when I got my car back from Henry my Airkweld front brakes squealed loudly EVERY time I slowed down.
Very annoying.
Henry thought the squealing might be the caliper brackets vibrating because they were too long and the metal too thin.
I took out the pads and sanded them down and also gave the rotors a good sanding to get rid of any glazing. I also put anti squeal compound on the back of the pads.
That fixed the squealing problem for my IM.
Thanks Ron. This has been happening since NEW (about three years). The brackets are heavy duty, probably the only thing good in the set. I sanded the pads and have cleaned the rotors with brake cleaner every time I took them apart. I had to buy more anti squeal jell because I have used so much and put home made friction plates behind the rear pads like the front has. It's now down to squeal once in a while when I turn hard in my driveway. My number two problem of grab is still un-solved. It's like a warped rotor grabbing, but the drilled rotors are now not the issue. My right rear is still out almost 12 thou at the tip. Rotor seems flat when checked. Machine shop put that spindle on lathe and said they got the face where the rotor mounts as close as they could. They thought the bore for the stub axle shaft and bearings was not drilled through perpendicular to the face, put couldn't make it any better. If they took more off there and got it square, then the wheel mounting face would be out. The geometry is worse on my car than the lathe so I have been thinking it's my stub axle. I bought a new one to replace what I have hoping that is the problem, but have not installed it yet. Airkewld originally said they would replace everything if I sent it all back, but after months of calls and waiting I didn't want to start all over with new crap.
I've got too many other things going on and want some time to enjoy life rather than deal with bull sh!#$@%.
Sorry Craig.
Pete is a legend in his own mind. I bought a brake set for my bus from him-- over $1000 worth of whatnot. The master cylinder leaked from day 1.
"You guys forgot about my CoolStop brakes, factory quality fit and the best on the market."
Please refresh our memories, Kevin- are they heavier or lighter than the comparable drum assemblies and by how much?
ALB posted:"You guys forgot about my CoolStop brakes, factory quality fit and the best on the market."
Please refresh our memories, Kevin- are they heavier or lighter than the comparable drum assemblies and by how much?
Troublemaker.
ALB posted:"You guys forgot about my CoolStop brakes, factory quality fit and the best on the market."
Please refresh our memories, Kevin- are they heavier or lighter than the comparable drum assemblies and by how much?
Al, does that really matter? Would you drive a 140/150 hp speedster with front drum brakes?
The question is, is Kevin's front brake kit lighter than Airkewlds? I like the fact that Kevin's kit has vented rotors, but I wonder if they increase the offset.