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The caster is "adjusted" by inserting caster shims between the frame head and lower tube of the beam. One set usually does the trick just fine. Still good for parking lots and wonderful for the highway.

Just in case, the camber is adjusted by rotating the camber adjusting spacer between the ball joint in the upper trailing arm and the spindle.

Pretty easy over-all.

Luck,

TC
Bill, the upper ball joint is on an eccentric. Loosen the 19mm nut for the balljoint on the underside near the top of the spindle. This adjusts both the camber and the caster. Pretty much, set the camber where you want it, but if you turn the adjuster further, you could end up with the eccentric more forward, but you want it more towards the rear of the car for maximum caster. Think of a bicycle/motorcycle with the laid-back steering angle of the head tube and fork. As long as the camber is the same left-right, the caster should be close enough. You MUST reset the toe-in after you mess with the camber/caster.

Of course TC is right, and I have a Spyder, in which the torsion housing is welded to the frame, so shims are not an option for me. I had forgotten about them though. Just remember, you want the ball joints both in the same ballpark while still having the proper camber on both sides.
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