Alternator/Battery Issues re-emerge

I'd check the battery terminals (wires connected to them often get green) and the grounds plus wires where they connect to starter.  There also is a ground strap from front of trans to chassis.  Is the 13.2v at battery or the alternator?

Wait.  Is it turning over, but won't start or do you turn the key and nothing happens? 

It isn't turning over - seems like not enough juice

I do have a multi-test - I have noticed that when I turn the car off the fan runs - is it thermostatically controlled - how long should t normally run?

I had a weird issue like this last year. Battery was new, alternator was charging, all looked good (good ground, good ground strap, etc.).

It turned out that the negative battery cable had corroded inside the terminal end-- I couldn't see it from the outside, but since I was out of other options, I cut off the end, and found... white powder surrounded by insulation. This was the second time I'd had this issue (the first was on a 1 ton Ford diesel).

If you are out of options, I'd try new cable ends.

I think you have a parasitic battery draw, which sounds like some accessory is wired incorrectly.  Some water-cooled engines with an electric water pump have a controller that will run an electric fan(s) for about 2 minutes after shutdown to prevent heat soak.  That must be what you think is happening.

However, if you have a VS with a/c engine, your fan is belt-driven.  Something may be running and draining the battery, but I can't comprehend how it could be your fan.

I think you need to charge your battery and drive your car to a competent auto electric shop near you, calling first for an appointment so someone can witness what is actually happening.  There may be a bilge-blower fan accessory mounted that has a bad switch or that needs to be manually turned off at shutdown.

Jim - A lot of these cars have auxiliary oil coolers with thermostatically controlled fans on them.  I believe that's what he's talking about.

OK, that makes sense, Lane.  If that's the fan that's running, I wasn't aware that any manufacturer offered the "heat soak prevention" option of running after engine shutdown.  That means power to the fan bypasses the key switch. 

If that's the fan that is running, there should be a controller or adjustment t-stat of some kind, either an oil temp adjustment (to raise or lower start/stop for the fan) or a timing adjustment to lengthen/shorten the time the fan runs.  Sounds to me like the fan runs too long after shutdown and drains the battery.

The oil cooler fan should on come on when the engine reaches temp X. It will run all the time when the engine reaches whatever that temp is. Sometimes after shutting down the motor the engine temp may rise and the fan will run for a couple of minutes. I have never had it drain the battery. 

 

What @majorkahuna said.

Most VS's with 1915 cc engines were equipped with external oil coolers and thermostatically controlled electric fans. Mine would routinely run for a few minutes after shutdown on warmer days, without putting a serious drain on the battery.

I'm guessing Jim is right and there's some other parasitic drain on the battery. If you're handy with a multimeter, there are a few tests for tracking this down. But if you're not, there's an even simpler test you could start with.

First, charge the battery back up with an external charger and hook the battery up to the car. Then, with the ignition key off and everything else electrical turned off, too, pull the ground cable off the battery and tap it to the battery's negative terminal a few times.

If you see an arc at the terminal when you do, something is connected or turned on or shorted out that shouldn't be. Get back to us and we'll let you know how to proceed from there.

 

(or just put one lead of the meter on the post, and one on the detached cable and avoid blowing the top off the battery)

 

Stan Galat posted:

(or just put one lead of the meter on the post, and one on the detached cable and avoid blowing the top off the battery)

 

Hmm... I thought Optimas were sealed and didn't vent gas that goes boom.

Old wives tale?

 

No, you’re right Mitch, an Optima is sealed. But if you ever blow the top off a battery, you stop sparking around them, if it can be helped. 

Stan is right. No sparks, at least on purpose!

Better yet, recharge the battery. Disconnect a lead, and between the lead and the battery post, connect a multimeter set to DC Amps. If you connect the meter, no worries, it has a fuse. Buy extras. And make sure the multimeter can handle about 10 amps, sounds like you have a serious draw there, Verbieten. 

If you're getting 13.2 at the battery, it's not enough. You need at least 13.8 to really charge the battery. Also check the voltage at the hot lead of the alternator to the alternator case. Also check the voltage between +12v battery post and alternator positive lead. Also check between the ground post and the engine case. Any more than 0.1v across those last two and you've got a bad cable somewhere.

I have a question: does the electric fan ever shut off? You could have a bad relay. The relay could be wet, relay could be burned out in on position, or fan is always on via under dash switch.

For the scientists among us, the battery gas they speak of above is Hindenbergium: OH, THE HUMANITY!

A guy I worked with jumped a 12v fork lift battery with off an 18 wheeler which is 24v what an explosion and the battery top nailed him straight in the face. Had I not been near him and had a  water hose close by I  flushed out the acid from his eyes, he would have gone blind. 

When I was a kid I worked in a service station, and jumped probably 10 cars a day. We’d been taught to be in shop class, etc. regarding the dangers of sparks around batteries, but I always considered that to be in the same category as “running with scissors” and waiting half an hour after eating before going swimming. 

Anyhow, one summer day I jumped a car and pulled the cables off rather roughly, creating a spark. The entire top blew off the battery and sprayed acid all over the car’s paint, me, and half the shop. My primary concern at that point was the paint job on the car. I thoroughly hosed off everything on the front of the car, then turned my attention to myself. As I washed the acid off my shirt with the garden hose, it completely disintegrated.

I don’t run with scissors anymore either. 

I always try to teach my friends and family the proper jumper cable sequence:

- positive to positive battery posts
- attach negative to jumping vehicle battery
- attach negative to ground point as far as possible away from battery on vehicle being jumped (where the spark will occur if it’s going to occur)

- reverse to disconnect
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Circa 1964  one night we stole the old style golf carts from a golf course in NJ  the kind that when you got off the seat the brakes would apply...well I was heading down a long hill and as I went up over another short hill, I stupidly stood up flipped the cart in a sand trap. Worn the same jeans to school the next day and the battery acid ate the legs away by in Home Room period,  had to call home for replacement jeans :~)