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Hey Gang,

 

My alternator is giving me concern. I drove the speedster a lot over the past few days. Lately when I start the car, the alt light stays on at first. If I give the car a blip of the throttle, the light goes off and everything is kosher.

 

Yesterday evening when I started the car, the light stayed on. I went to the back, checked the belt. Yup.. everything is spinning like it should be. No amount of throttle would turn off the light. I rolled the dice and figured I'd brave the 22 miles home. I made it home without issue.

 

I figured maybe I had a stuck brush or something, so I pulled the brush cover. Nope. Brushes look great. Nice and long. Not hung up. I put the brush cover back in place and went to fire it up again. Keyed the ignition and no red light. Humm... checked the bulb (swapped it with a new one.) Still dead. Grounded the blue wire to the alternator case... bink! Light comes on. Grounding the blue wire to the alternator while the key is in the 'on' position turns the light on.

 

I pulled the brush cover again... and accidentally drug the side prong of one of the internal regulator wires on the case of the alternator... bzzzt. (damn.) Puff... smoke. (double damn.)

 

So, at this point I'm thinking new internal regulator for sure. (20 bucks, shipped from AutoHauz) - Ordered it.

 

I guess I need to fire up the car and see if the alternator is putting out any juice. But I"m thinking at this point I most likely fried the internal regulator or a diode when I fat fingered the brush housing.

 

Any of you gents have any other suggestions for troubleshooting this sucker? 


Ted

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Hey, Ted; how're you doing? Glad you're having fun with that thing. Sorry, electrics aren't my strong point; I know just enough about electricity to really hurt myself! When I put dimmer switches in my kids bedrooms (when they were younger) I couldn't figure out which breaker turned off the lights, so I turned off the whole panel. The wife came home and I was resetting clocks all over the place...

Anyway, just wanted to say hi. Al

The recent reports of my traveling with a buncha drunks is greatly exaggerated......

 

I'm curious about the D+ voltage, too - key on, engine not running.

 

You may have fried the regulator/diode pack, but we don't know yet (even though it sounds like it was heading south anyway).  

 

Usually, I find that when a diode goes, one of the bearings is next so you might as well find a local automotive starter/alternator repair place and just have them rebuild it for you.  Usually takes a couple of days and they may use the diode pack you just ordered, saving you a few bucks.

Hey Guys!!? I thought everybody was on the road.   Nice to find you all still around.

 

I will have to go  buy a fluke meeter. Though, I may just bite the bullet and buy a new alternator. I doubt anyone in the San Francisco Bay area bothers to rebuild an alternator these days.

 

I'll call bugformance tomorrow and see if they have one in stock. I'll eat the 20.00 for the regulator.

 

Such is life. The sad part is the alternator and brushes are in great shape.

 

I'll let you know if I locate a meeter.

 

Ted

Hey Stephen,

 

My alternator has two wires. A red one and a blue one.

 

Both are connected at the alternator side. The blue one is connected on both ends. It's worth checking the other side of the red one. I'll check the red wire on the starter in the morning.

 

Stranger things have happened.


Ted

Last edited by TRP

I just searched for an auto electrical repair shop near San Fran and came up with over a dozen, with Freddys as a front-runner.  Worth a shot:

 

http://www.yelp.com/biz/freddy...ectric-san-francisco

 

Plus, there are a bunch of "remanufactured" Bosch alternators out there (I've been running one for over 15 years) for less money.  Try CIP1.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Hey Gordon!

 

Thanks for the list. I'm 75 miles from San Fran. I did a similar search for San Jose and found a shop within walking distance of my office. I'm going to swing by there today and see what their back log looks like. I will the alternator this weekend. I should have done it yesterday, but I had back to back meetings all day and a 8-10pm with India.

 

If I can get that nut off the fan this should be a simple slam dunk to replace the regulator. While reading up on the alternator I kept coming across references to 'bad diodes'. Is the diode pack different than the regulator? Are they readily available? or is that a shop job?

 

Thanks again for the info,

Ted

Last edited by TRP
Originally Posted by TRP:

95A?! What on earth would you need that many amps for? Especially on a speedster!?

 

I pulled the alternator and got it all torn down. The bearings are in great shape. The commutator looks nearly brand new.

 

I will run down and have tested and then take it from there.


T

Ted- Think Mongo stereo and a couple pairs of driving lights....

Power Bastards (you couldn't make this stuff up) sells a high output 220A alternator that puts out 1100A at 1000 rpm.  Gets good reviews.  They sell a "fitsall" model that may need "some" adjusting to install.  My only concern would be cooling, since that amount of amperage will generate additional heat.  List price is $349.  You may need a wiring upgrade as well.

PB's upgrade kit is limited.  It replaces your (possibly) 8 gauge wire from alt to bat with a 0 gauge wire and 250A fuse block.  Check out wwwdotpowerbastardsdotcom. The beauty of their unit is that it's pretty much the same case as a normal 60-70A unit.  Competitors usually have a real honker that wouldn't fit in our cars.  The possible downside is that the smaller case may not provide room for sufficient fans and cooling.  Reviews are all positive, however, with some owners using them for over 2 years with no complaints.  They seem to be mostly used by car stereo guys (huh? what?).

Thanks Jim. The seat heaters I looked at online use 10 amp fuses, so between 2 seat heaters and the blanket there's not a huge draw. A generator (30 amps, iIrc) will run the car itself (maybe with driving lights?) so a 55 amp alternator should be more than enough. A 75 amp unit would cover it for sure. Al

 

Unless, of course, the sweet sound of the engine roaring down the highway in full song isn't enough and a mega-watt stereo is needed as well...

Last edited by ALB
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