Alternator mid-removal help!

On my linkage there is a nut on shaft that "shortens" the cross bar linkage so it can be removed (has a coil spring inside so watch that it doesn't fly off).  It will still be difficult to get alternator out as the fan will hit shroud just as the alternator hits the pedestal.  Maybe loosening shroud  or removing fan would help.  There are studs in the block holding the pedestal so that makes it difficult to remove it as it can't be lifted high enough to clear studs.

It's probably easier to remove one air cleaner, then remove the air cleaner base plate on that side (which hold the supports for the hex bar linkage) and then remove the bar to give yourself room to maneuver stuff to get it out.

I still think you'll end up removing the alt. pedestal, though, for the reasons Greg mentions up above (fan hitting the shroud on exit) but you may luck out.

Do SEARCH on replacing ends with heim joints.

As usual, I spoke too soon.

Took the alternator to the shop, and they said it was fine after some bench testing.  Which is possibly good news.....but I would've much rather had a bad alternator cuz now I'm chasing an unknown.

He said to find the Voltage Regulator (follow the blue wire from the alternator) and check that.  If all connections etc are fine, then he said to take it out and bring both back to him to test.

I'm gonna put the battery on charge also so that we can test all three together...but now I gotta find the Voltage Regulator.

Now that I think about it, if it was a loose connection that would explain why the electrics were rotating between perfectly fine, half-power, and no-power during the drive over...

Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks everyone for the quick responses!  

Knee deep in the Madness

**EDIT** After searching past Voltage Regulator posts and matching up numbers (I have the Bosch AL82N) it seems that I have an internal voltage regulator.  I'll have to call the alternator rebuild guys back I suppose...

Yeah, I was wondering about that - most alternators have internal regulators.

While it's time to poke around looking for a loose electrical connection, it might be time to find another electrical place.  It could be that, given the voltage swings he saw, the internal regulator isn't regulating properly (doubtful) but without seeing him test it and with what, I can't be sure.  Normally, a resistive load is applied to the running alternator and voltage is tested at several speeds to see it swing the voltage from, roughly, 12.2 to 13.9 volts (that range could vary a bit, too).  But I don't know what went on and why he's telling you to find the regulator when it's internal (and he should know that).

Anyway, to check for loose connections, start at the alternator and follow the wires back to where-ever they go, cleaning and tightening connections as you go.  Look especially at the connections at the starter for the BIG wire(s), the clamps on the battery, and clean the ground connection at the far end of the battery ground cable (at the chassis).

Those are all the easy ones.  After that, you have to find and check all collective (more than one wire) ground connections under the dash and elsewhere, and then the power connections feeding the fuse block from the battery or starter connection (where-ever it comes from).

One step at a time.......

Tell me again, What was the reason to suspect the alternator in the first place?

Very true (re: electrical shop), but I'm in a small town in Northern Ontario so my resources (both from shops, and my ability to be mobile with no vehicle) are very limited.  That, and I am rushing to have it fixed by Friday so I can drive it back :-S!

I agree with following wires, poking around, and cleaning/connecting as I go.  I would also take that time to familiarize myself with what's going on in and around my engine bay now that I have a little more room.

In fact that's how I normally familiarize myself with cars like this, just that I haven't yet had the chance since I only JUST got it road-worthy (legally).  Of course, a normal person would've waited a little longer before taking such a trip, but normal people don't have Speedsters haha!

Definitely one step at a time...!

Sorry, didn't see this question before!

The reason was threefold -

1) while driving, the lights (/gauges/engine) seemed to dim...then after a while flip back to being perfect, then a while later flip so SUPER dim...and spent quite a while flipping between the three

2) it was running like $hit (some popping, sounded like one side of the carbs was only working 'on occasion' when throttle was pressed aggressively), and

3) a local mechanic suggested it was the alternator (likely after hearing the lights dimming-symptom) and said that that could also cause the ruckus with carb timing/making the car run lumpy, and sent me to an alternator rebuild shop.

Though the Electrical shop was initially wrong when they said the alternator was fine, when they tested it properly they realized it was bad - only giving out 9v at times etc etc.  He said "you were right, I was wrong. I just haven't seen one of these in so many years I got mixed up" - which is a VERY rare thing to hear a mechanic say!!! - and they got me a new one.

So I got the new Alt yesterday, and put it all back in.  Though the alternator I got looks *slightly* different than the Bosch AL82N I had, he assured me it was the exact same.  It all fit back into place just fine anyway (except for that f#*%^$ Heim jointed bar).

It started up okay, but still runs very lumpy and is VERY loud.  I'm thinking that somehow, while being parked still for the winter time, somehow they got out of sync or out of adjustment and need to be tuned again.

At least that's what I'm hoping.

(and yes, I know my jimmy-rigged throttle bar has something to do with my inconsistent idle, but even when parked still without driving, it runs the same now as it did with the old Alt)

The second picture though; with the drip of oil visible under the pulley.  I cleaned the engine bay pretty good the last cpl days, and no matter what, that bloody oil drip always comes back (when the car is turned on, that is).

Anyone know if that's something I should be really worried about, or is that just the typical VW "marking its territory" drip?

Very Loud.  Get a screw in compression tester.  Pull coil wire and check compression in all cylinders. It will never run smooth with low compression on one or more cylinders.  Compression test is like blood pressure test - 1st thing a doctor does.  Low compression could be pulled/loose head studs, valves adjusted wrong or rocker/push rod issue.  Let us know cylinder compression readings.  

Oil Leak. That after market crank pulley is likely cause of leak - many say going back to OEM steel pulley (or high quality aftermarket one) will fix leak.  Do you have a crank case breather?  Over pressured crank case will cause oil to blow out too -- even over filled engine will cause leaks. 

Knowing engine size and how many miles on it will help diagnose problems too. Engine looks very clean so assume new or fairly new?

All very likely. (aka 'damn, y'all know your $hit!!')

Loud - my experience with carbs is clearly minimal, but my sneaking suspicion is that they're jetted wrong (wrong = wrong for this geographical region, since the car came from Atlanta.  This far north, I'd assume the air is different (thinner?) and its obviously much cooler here).  That would affect the compression also, no?

Either ways I will perform a compression test, that's for sure.

Oil Leak - I don't have a crank case breather.  This might explain why my plastic EMPI oil cap's top cracked right off.....

There is a rubber hose on the oil filler neck that used to keep popping off (that I finally managed to fasten such that it wouldn't pop off anymore).  In the absence of a breather cap, would it be a wise move to pop that off/loosen the ring clamp on it temporarily (to allow pressure to escape)?

I try to keep the oil at the mid-point between the two notches on the dipstick, and that's roughly where it is now.  Engine is the 1800 or 1915cc? Bigger than the 1600 that's for sure.  Engine was built by Chico Performance and had about 400mi on it when I picked it up, and then however many miles to drive it from Atlanta to Toronto.  Oil was then changed, valves were not adjusted. Car sat through the winter (garaged), and had a few short trips around town this season, before bringing it up here (about 6hrs outta Toronto). 

I do, however, have to get it back to Toronto later today (which is where I can perform these tests).  

I'm extremely gentle on the car, and the drive will be at 3000-3500rpm the whole way.  I'm almost never aggressive on the throttle unless I'm sure the car is performing at 1000%.

How much damage am I risking?

(trust me I'll never expose myself in such a way again.  From now on I'm gonna get someone to follow me with trailer on long trips...)

Ya mean it looks like this?

That's mine after running for about an hour on a turnpike.

Does it all the time...Run it hard and it weeps a few drops out past the crankshaft pulley and it drips down onto the ground.  VW designed it that way.  There really isn't a seal in behind the pulley (unless someone has installed a so-called "Sand Seal" back there, which is designed to keep sand and dust OUT, not keep the oil in - that's just a bonus).

If it's leaking a lot (floor stain the size of your hand after a long spirited ride) , then, as Wolfgang mentions, you may need to look for a better breather system because the crankcase pressure is pushing too much oil out at the crankshaft pulley.  

Where did that hose go that fell off?  If it just goes from the oil filler neck and down to the ground then no problem re-attaching it.  Same for the cap......If it's off, it'll probably blow oil vapor all over the engine while running so a new cap of any sort would be a good thing.

Will you hurt anything in driving it home?  I doubt it.  Check the oil whenever you stop for gas and top off as necessary (where you keep it between the notches is fine).

On the loud reference, without hearing it I can't comment.

Nice!

Yeah that's about the size of mine, and if anything is on the floor it's barely the size of my nail, never mind the hand, so whew!!!

Just wanted to make sure I didn't hear a huge 'burst' followed by oil!

Well, the oil cap I managed to fix/replace (when it came off, it blew oil all over the engine bay so I wanted to make sure that didn't occur again).  The hose went from the filler to a T-fitting & the air box etc, shown in pic below.

I figured it would be difficult to tell the sound without hearing it.....but I'm a little embarrassed to have others hear it   so after I try everything else I'll ask for your ears' as a last resort!!!

That breather system, while not the cleanest installation I've ever seen, should be adequate, at least for the ride home.  The most important hose is the one going from the "TEE" to the air cleaner.  Make sure that one's connected And it should be fine.

Gentlemen, you are.

The lot of you.

Let's hope for a smooth ride!  (and....my first ride in light rain. So...basically all cards are stacked against me...! lol)

Made it home in one (wet) piece, mission accomplished!

Despite the slightly louder than normal noise, it was still BY FAR *THE* most fun I've had at the speed limit (or....thereabouts....) in my life.

Learned a whole lot, though.  Was a cloudy day in the 20-25degree (Celsius) range, and (according to the temp gauge) the car never actually got to normal running temperature...even after 7hrs of cruising! After 3 or 4hrs I heard the exhaust hit its proper note so I know it did get warm, but the gauge was still not even in the paint (on the cold-side).

Anyway, everyone's help was invaluable, thank you all very much!