I will soon have an Andrig fan for sale. I am posting here so that any others who have installed them may comment on them.
It seemed to cool at least as well as my standard fan on my Speedster.
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Michael, why did you change back?
I didn't like the noise it made. Maybe others would enjoy the noise. It would be less noticeable in a louder car or in a Spyder.
I have Andrig's Gen 1 fan installed and it doesn't make any strange noise.
For me, it made kind of a whistling noise.
Michael.........Do you have photos of it ? I don't know what it is exactly............Bruce
Here is a photo:
Some think it cools better. Some think, because of its lighter weight, it acts something like a lightened flywheel.
Someone compared the weights of this fan with a welded and balanced fan:
Andrig fan weight 315 grams
Tig Welded and balanced fan weight 1184 grams
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I read a few pages of the train wreck on TheSamba ,
I really did not see any real world tests on this fan and Andrig stopped making them ,
So have anyone seen a long term test , or if any of them hand grenaded !
I like the idea , but it really puts a stop to your day driving without a working fan 
And I have never had a stock VW fan fail in 100-200k miles driving Aircooled bugs and buses.
From the horses mouth.
https://www.facebook.com/10006...68/?__so__=permalink
The best info I could find was that Andrig’s fan was more efficient at idle, but as rpm’s increased the advantage decreased. And the noise.
I just dropped him a line. If his double sided fan works with my Thing shroud, I think I’m going to try one.
ps: he also has a video describing the Concept1 Thing shroud.
Michael
That is the same fan I have. It has been running fine for a year. Once Andrig has his new double sided fan worked out, I will probably buy one.
Andrig explains the perceived drawback of the first fan on his website blog. By his description it didn't work in a Bus with a 2110. Version 2 is back to a squirrel cage design.
He appears to be a fairly straightforward tinkerer, and I think his first version is fine for what most of us are doing. My concerns with his test method are 2:
1. it appears he's measuring air velocity/volume into the fan, not what's coming out through the bottom of the test motor. Understandable, given the complexities of the latter airstreams, but also limiting as a gauge of the fan's efficiency.
2. He's turning a fixed 3400 RPM. It's an excellent steady highway speed for testing, and great for getting consistent apples-apples data between competing fans, but limits the real-world usefulness. Is his fan also better than a welded stock fan at 2,000 RPM? Does it require more power to spin it, or less? How about at 5000? And so on.
If nothing else, he's proving, once again, what Raby claims he learned while testing the DTM shroud: these old Type 1 cooling systems are devilishly complex, and very hard to improve on.
I think he threw in the towel on his 3D printed squirrel cage. It came apart, at 8,000 rpm I think he said, just as he was getter ready to ship them. He explains it in one of his videos.
My biggest concern with his dual fan idea is the four corner holes in the backing plate. I fixed enough tabs in my plastic welding/PDR class to recognize that as a weak point. I wonder if it would be possible to print it around some sort of metal support, even a small washer, or if that would even help.
I agreed with the testing, Ed. I’d like to know what CFM is coming out of the four holes in a type 3 “Cool Tins” set up. Also it’s great to have someone who will still tinker on these old blobs
eta: It’s in this one. Fan broke up between 6500-7500rpm.
I’m digging the look of the double fan.
I’m going to suggest he prints them with tan plastic, if the type he uses comes in tan. Otherwise black. (I’m sure he’s never heard that before) 
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@dlearl476 posted:. I fixed enough tabs in my plastic welding/PDR class to recognize that as a weak point. I w
Totally off subject , but can you do a post on what you learned at the PDR class ,
When you watch YouTube videos it looks like it is MAGIC , but I am sure a lot of that is good editing
Thanks
Hardly anything, unfortunately.
The class was billed as PDR and I wanted to take it to, hopefully, get a dent out of my Ducati tank it suffered when a Suburban backed into it and knocked it over in Manhattan.
It was the first time it was taught and the instructor spent most of the semester on plastic welding, which was also cool to learn.
He broke out the picks and hammers about the last 1.5 weeks of class and we played around with them. I suspect he was waiting on a bunch of suction vices to show up that never did. While the pick and hammer technique works, the suction pliers are twice as effective.
I bought a kit from Eastwood and watched all those YouTube videos myself and I’ve been trying to get with my son to use it on his hail-damaged Audi before I mess with my 968.
I had a bunch of PDR done on my cars when I lived in Las Vegas and it’s pretty amazing what they can do.
Um, what is PDR?
@Michael McKelvey posted:Um, what is PDR?
Paintless Dent Removal
Ah, thanks. I probably should have been able to figure that out since I recently wondered if it could be used to fix ice storm damage to my car.
@Michael McKelvey posted:Ah, thanks. I probably should have been able to figure that out since I recently wondered if it could be used to fix ice storm damage to my car.
Like a lot of things, it’s up to the skill of the craftsman. A rule of thumb they taught us in the class is that anything that doesn’t break the paint surface can be repaired.
The guy I used in Las Vegas was a master. Appropriately named Chad Dents, he told me German metal is the best. Like butter. I had him come by twice and he took out door dings etc from my 968, ML 320, and Alfa. It was ~$200 for an hour and a half’s worth of work. He usually charged $50\panel, but my stuff was so slight he gave me a break.
Pro Tip: Ask a Ferrari or Lamborghini dealer who they use. That’s how I found Chad.
Same thing for Mercedes, Jaguar and Porsche dealers - Ask who they use locally for dent removal and find them.
Ask at the parts counter, not the sales guys. Sales guys (or service guys) won’t be much help but the parts guys know everything.
If you have the chance watch a PDR guy in action, they are truly artists. They project intense light with lines onto the panel that looks like a " music staff " working the repair until the lines are perfectly straight. I had a black Harley Davidson F-150 with dozens of hail dings in the roof and hood. when PDR repaired, it was like a mirror.
yes I have the updated metal flange