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http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5922514622.html
What intrigues me here is the single carb with the fuel pressure gauge. Anyone do anything like this?I like the simplicity of it. Having to rebuild my webers again and am being tempted by the single carb idea.
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I swear this car came out of South/Central FL couple years ago - sold really cheap($19k?) to GA guy who quickly jacked up price. The color combo is what sticks in my mind. I hesitated on it and it was quickly scarfed up. Anyone else remember?
Is this it form SOC?
https://www.speedsterowners.com...r-sale-south-florida
Now if I could just remember what I went out to the garage for.....
If it is the one I think it is, it used to have burgundy wheels? A real mistake. Looks nice now though. If this car could be had for eh $20k range, it would be a bargain. Above that, really Troy's is the way to go.
It's the one listed on SOC over a year ago with chrome 4 bolt wheels. I'm thinking the GA dealer is looking for $26k. Nice unique color combo but 3 owners - suspect none willing to do sorting out on it. This one is on east coast.
Yup. It is about an hour from me. I am not in the market, but if I get the chance I will drive over and have a look.
MotoCarlo posted:http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5922514622.html
What intrigues me here is the single carb with the fuel pressure gauge. Anyone do anything like this?I like the simplicity of it. Having to rebuild my webers again and am being tempted by the single carb idea.
You may like the simplicity of it, but you won't like the power drop, the engine running just that little bit hotter, and probably lousier mileage (make sure you've got good manifold preheat) when you take off the dual carbs. That long intake manifold with a small carburetor in the center is not the optimal set up. Consider rebuilding the Webers the winter project. How often are you having to rebuild them, and what are the issues?
This guy has a bunch of interesting cars on his floor and I've been in a couple of times. He's only about 15 minutes from me. I looked at the creme color tub in the background but I remember it being considerably less; I can't remember the manufacturer.
Al, thanks for addressing my single carb question. When I got the car the carbs were leaking like crazy (lot of other neglect related problem with the car too), so instead of simply rebuilding them, I got the cb performance upgrade. I am quite familiar with webers and how to properly adjust the floats, etc... I think the jetting is off with the cb kit and my engine . So out they come again, and I am going to take it back to the traditional venturi and jetting. My mistake . I should have gotten the car running properly first, before starting to upgrade components. In pulling the carbs again, I always pause to consider options. Your input on the single carb is exactly what I have feared. So, back to the 40 idf rebuild. When all is said and done, I will probably drop a subie in my car. But I want to get this engine at it's best first. Thaks Al.
MotoCarlo posted:http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/5922514622.html
What intrigues me here is the single carb with the fuel pressure gauge. Anyone do anything like this?I like the simplicity of it. Having to rebuild my webers again and am being tempted by the single carb idea.
I had a 1915 cc engine with a single center mount Weber 32/36 and it worked very well. Easy to start, set it and forget it. Good mileage too.
Thanks David. I hear both sides of the story. For now I have decided to rebuild the dual webers carbs with new floats and all new jets. So ... fingers crossed.
MotoCarlo posted:Al, thanks for addressing my single carb question. When I got the car the carbs were leaking like crazy (lot of other neglect related problem with the car too), so instead of simply rebuilding them, I got the cb performance upgrade. I am quite familiar with webers and how to properly adjust the floats, etc... I think the jetting is off with the cb kit and my engine . So out they come again, and I am going to take it back to the traditional venturi and jetting. My mistake . I should have gotten the car running properly first, before starting to upgrade components. In pulling the carbs again, I always pause to consider options. Your input on the single carb is exactly what I have feared. So, back to the 40 idf rebuild. When all is said and done, I will probably drop a subie in my car. But I want to get this engine at it's best first. Thaks Al.
Keep in mind when rebuilding the carbs the idle circuits need to be sprayed with carb clean or brake clean and blown out with air. Most of the issues with these carbs is that out of the box one must set the float height adjustment, clean all the circuits and jet it for the application. Out of the box the main jet is too small and the idle jet is too small.
leaking carbs are usually due to in proper float setting. Also you need a fuel regulator to confirm the carbs are receiving too much fuel pressure. Two to two & half pounds max. And of course you should have a fuel filter. The vw fuel tank should have a screen mesh filter but that alone is not enough.
I'm going through similar issues with mine; I finally gave up yesterday and put my HPMX 44s back on and packed my Webern away until Leon can look at them after Christmas.!
From what I have experienced and have been hearing from others, the newer HPMX 40 and 44s are pretty good. I've put them on 3 cars recently and not had any issues.
I haven't used the 48s so I don't know about them.
In rebuilding the carbs this time , I took a magnifying glass to see if I could read the old corroded jets sizes. They were all different sizes. Why would someone do that? So I replaced all the jets to the original specs, redid the float, redid the needle jet, etc... and what do you know? It works better than it ever did. Next I plan to add a pressure regulator and Y connect it to the two carbs... Nice to have a little success . Going for a cruise on this warm southern Christmas day. (with cell phone in pocket - :-) )
You can't always go by the sizes that are stamped onto carb jets because some folks change the sizes with a tool but there is a measuring tool that can be used to determine what the jet sizes actually are. Your's though were probably mixed since the engine ran so well after changing the sizes. That success feels good, doesn't it!
I have a gauge for checking jet sizes if anyone would like to borrow it.
MotoCarlo posted:In rebuilding the carbs this time , I took a magnifying glass to see if I could read the old corroded jets sizes. They were all different sizes. Why would someone do that? So I replaced all the jets to the original specs, redid the float, redid the needle jet, etc... and what do you know? It works better than it ever did. Next I plan to add a pressure regulator and Y connect it to the two carbs... Nice to have a little success . Going for a cruise on this warm southern Christmas day. (with cell phone in pocket - :-) )
Many, many, (many) guys drill or ream jets. You need a jet gauge to determine what you really have in there. Even the new Asian jets vary in size right out of the box.
I had Weber carbs on a 914 - I used to fill old holes with solder (lead) and redrill to desired size. Saved cost of 4x2x2x$6 per jet.
Owning (or having access to) a set of jet drills when messing with Weber or Dellorto carbs can be invaluable, as you can use them to confirm what you have and change sizes in a moment (and not have to wait days for them to be delivered). The 2nd or 3rd time they're used they've also paid for themselves (and as Greg said, you can make them smaller).
The only caveat- apparently, factory machined jets flow slightly different than home drilled due to consistent inlet and outlet angles, so use the same of whatever size through both carbs. There are people that go as far as using the drills to figure out sizes and then replace the drilled out ones with genuine factory jets. And whenever given the choice (original Weber/Dellorto or Asian), always go with original (no matter what the cost), as quality control on the Asian parts is not always up to par (as Stan already mentioned). Al
I just stumbled on this thread about single carbs; I tried using a single Weber with a center mount but couldn't get the deck lid to close without modifying the lid. I have a Beck, if that matters...I've had nothing but trouble with my carbs and they never seem to hold a setting. I am continually alternating between HPMX and Weber 44's, each time thinking that I've solved the problem. It seems as though every day presents itself with a new set of problems with carburation. I was rather intereted in someone talking about the "Jet Doctor" and might throw some money their way.
Meade, I feel your pain, buddy.
My first foray into air-cooled idiocy was on my first Speedster back in 2000. It had a 1776 lump with dual 40 IDFs. I was/am/will-always-be a corn-fed, white-bread, hick-town homeboy, so two carburetors with 4 individually adjustable barrels feeding an engine 1/3 the size of a 350 small-block seemed pretty exotic and not all that useful. Kind've cool, but "what the heck?!?"
After buying all the books (written ,apparently, by guys who I would suppose know what they are doing but who cannot communicate in a linear way), messing with the linkages and mixture screws endlessly, and reading a lot-- I decided it was a ridiculous waste of time.
My next car was also a 1776 Type 1 (built by the lowest bidder with Asian parts), but this one had "baby Webers": 34 mm ICTs. They were pretty easy to set up, held their settings, and worked pretty well. They also support about 80 hp, and no more.
It was at that point that I thought I had enough experience to color outside the lines. Lots of guys here were singing the praises of their Kadron set-ups. A guy named AJ Sims was everybody's "Mr. Kadron", and he was modifying carbs with great-big venturis and throttle-plates. The idea of a simple set-up (like my ICTs) that flowed enough to support 130-150 hp seemed like exactly what I was after. It was at that point that I entered into "AJ's Netherworld of Broken Promises and Missed Deadlines".
I had a 2110 built, and followed his recommendations to the letter. He did a set of 043s for me, I put his cam selection in (Engle FK43), and purchased a $1000 set of 46 mm Kadrons with all the bells and whistles. The carbs were hideous-- absolute pieces of junk. They flooded constantly, and could not be made to work for love or money.
I ended up calling Art Thraen, who said, "yes, I can fix them... but you really don't want me to". He gave me the tough-love I needed, and told me that there really wasn't any way around single-runner dual 2-barrel carbs if I wanted the engine to live up to even a part of it's potential. I think this was the first time I set aside my small-town ideal of getting something great for less money than everybody else, and just decided to buy something that would work. Art sold me a set of 40 Dellortos, rebuilt and set-up on his shop engine, with a "best-guess" at what I would need for jetting.
I wrote a big check (another $1000, I think, for everything: port-matched manifolds, CB linkage, everything), put the Kads in a box, and bolted the Dellortos on. The transformation was instantaneous. It was a real car.
It was at that point that I began accumulating everything I'd need to do this for myself. I bought a wide-band O2 sensor, and every single jet (idle, main, and air-correction) from ridiculously small to very fat. I learned how to read the O2 meter as it swung between idles and mains, and I got pretty good at feeling when something wasn't right. I began to see that a lot of what gets blamed on fuel is really the ridiculous spark-scatter of fake 009s.
All this is to say, there isn't a short-cut here that I know of. There isn't a bolt-on injection system that's going to make it all go away. There isn't a "hey, lets bolt a simple 2 bbl carb on this" answer that even comes close to what you are expecting. And I'll even say, that for most guys, EMPI carbs and new (barely better) Webers really don't compare to decent Italian Dellortos. There are sets of DLRAs out there all the time. In my stash I presently own a set of 40s, a set of 45s, a set of "normal" 48s, and the mac-daddy tri-jet 48s. I'm paranoid, because they are NLA and I never want to be without.
For a "normal" 130-150 hp 2110, it's my opinion that you can't do better than a set of 40 Dellortos. Sure, the drag-racers all want you to bolt on bigger carbs and live with a soggy transition for the extra 10 hp above 5500 RPM, but for my money-- the crisp, tight control I get with the 40s is hard to beat. I'm running 45s on my 2276, but I may end up back with 40s before it's all said and done. I've come to really love how they work. They are really that nice.
I've watched many guys fight IDFs until they give up and shell out for a Subaru engine, without ever trying DLRAs. That's OK, but there's a lot of middle-ground between an engine with HPMX carbs and shelling out for a $5K+ power-train transplant. I understand that the water-cooled solution is final, and that the guys who own them don't tinker-- but if you want something better than what you have, and would like to stay with air-cooled stuff... there is something you haven't tried.
That's my experience and opinion. If I can save somebody from the stupid stuff I've done over the years, at least it won't have been for nothing. You can take it or leave it, but forewarned is forearmed.
I finally got the carbs on my old 912 and on my current IM to work via - float adjustment and jets. But it was a LOT of trial and error. Mostly error . I also know it is tentative.... How does fuel pressure play into this?
In my case I am indeed going the Subie route - not so much because of the carbs - other reasons : HP , torque, cooling in the mountains, etc... and simply just to give it a try. :-)
Stan, I love you buddy, you know that. That's why I'm going to provide some tough love and a brief intervention.
In your last post you used the term "when it's all said and done......." in reference to your Speedster.
Stan, deep in the recesses of your heart, you know that when it comes to that car there will never be "when it's all said and done....."
Face the facts, open the wallet, kiss Jeanie and free yourself from the myth.
Your Buddy,
Bob
He knows that Bob, he just needs to finish the house first. 
...gotta say, I agree with Bob, it's a never-say-never thing for any of us who've jumped headlong into the madness, there is no end to the idiocy we will endure for these silly plastic cars...
Hi, my name is Mitch and I own a Speedster.
Brother Bob, I think that you may owe brother Stan a bit more empathy and understanding. As have all of us, he has suffered a great material loss and still suffers from denial. While his life and his checking account will never again be quite the same, he is making good progress in accepting his loss and in getting on with his life.
He has attended our meetings regularly.
He has accepted that he is powerless to overcome his obsession and has placed his faith in the SOC.
He has been clean for some time now, having made no significant modifications to his Speedster in over a year.
His willingness to share his experiences so that others may heal is a sign of his own healing.
Let us join with brother Stan in his long, difficult journey and acknowledge that none of us can ever again click on a single page of the CB Performance catalogue.
Welcome Mitch, we're glad you've admitted that you're powerless to change without the help of a Higher Power.
Which step, of the twelve, are you on?
From the sound of your post you are no longer in denial about the obsession these cars have over us.
You've made amends with those you've hurt in the pursuit of the perfect 5 speed, you've realized that each day is another challenge: resisting the urge to click on The Samba classifieds, perusing Ebay 356 ads, lusting over Gene Berg catalogues.
The temptations are manifold (pardon the pun) but we have each other, that's what your sponsor Tony is for, you can call him day or night for support.
Remember, you're only one quart of Brad Penn away from failure and then it's all the way back to the madness.
Brother Will
Paragraph 10 (of 13): "All this is to say, there isn't a short-cut here that I know of."
This is one of the best disquisitions upon The Madness I have yet seen. The details, including the cash figures, are exquisite. Modest yet authoritative, informative and cautionary.
I stand to applaud Brother Stan.
I'm doing what I can, brother Will.
After adding a slimline sump, a remote cooler, and a filter, I'm now five quarts of Brad Penn away from failure.
...it's a slippery slope!
Tough love eh? You guys are awesome.
Still looking for my perfect VS ride.
All stand and join hands and say "Amen"
Misery loves company . . .
Danny D posted:Tough love eh? You guys are awesome.
Still looking for my perfect VS ride.
Have you talked to @Troy Sloan ?
He has a freshly redone VS Speedster with a brand new GT Silver paint job and a brand new 2110 (Ithink) engine.
Stan Galat, '05 IM, 2276, Nowhere, USA posted:Meade, I feel your pain, buddy.
My first foray into air-cooled idiocy was on my first Speedster back in 2000. It had a 1776 lump with dual 40 IDFs. I was/am/will-always-be a corn-fed, white-bread, hick-town homeboy, so two carburetors with 4 individually adjustable barrels feeding an engine 1/3 the size of a 350 small-block seemed pretty exotic and not all that useful. Kind've cool, but "what the heck?!?"
After buying all the books (written ,apparently, by guys who I would suppose know what they are doing but who cannot communicate in a linear way), messing with the linkages and mixture screws endlessly, and reading a lot-- I decided it was a ridiculous waste of time.
My next car was also a 1776 Type 1 (built by the lowest bidder with Asian parts), but this one had "baby Webers": 34 mm ICTs. They were pretty easy to set up, held their settings, and worked pretty well. They also support about 80 hp, and no more.
It was at that point that I thought I had enough experience to color outside the lines. Lots of guys here were singing the praises of their Kadron set-ups. A guy named AJ Sims was everybody's "Mr. Kadron", and he was modifying carbs with great-big venturis and throttle-plates. The idea of a simple set-up (like my ICTs) that flowed enough to support 130-150 hp seemed like exactly what I was after. It was at that point that I entered into "AJ's Netherworld of Broken Promises and Missed Deadlines".
I had a 2110 built, and followed his recommendations to the letter. He did a set of 043s for me, I put his cam selection in (Engle FK43), and purchased a $1000 set of 46 mm Kadrons with all the bells and whistles. The carbs were hideous-- absolute pieces of junk. They flooded constantly, and could not be made to work for love or money.
I ended up calling Art Thraen, who said, "yes, I can fix them... but you really don't want me to". He gave me the tough-love I needed, and told me that there really wasn't any way around single-runner dual 2-barrel carbs if I wanted the engine to live up to even a part of it's potential. I think this was the first time I set aside my small-town ideal of getting something great for less money than everybody else, and just decided to buy something that would work. Art sold me a set of 40 Dellortos, rebuilt and set-up on his shop engine, with a "best-guess" at what I would need for jetting.
I wrote a big check (another $1000, I think, for everything: port-matched manifolds, CB linkage, everything), put the Kads in a box, and bolted the Dellortos on. The transformation was instantaneous. It was a real car.
It was at that point that I began accumulating everything I'd need to do this for myself. I bought a wide-band O2 sensor, and every single jet (idle, main, and air-correction) from ridiculously small to very fat. I learned how to read the O2 meter as it swung between idles and mains, and I got pretty good at feeling when something wasn't right. I began to see that a lot of what gets blamed on fuel is really the ridiculous spark-scatter of fake 009s.
All this is to say, there isn't a short-cut here that I know of. There isn't a bolt-on injection system that's going to make it all go away. There isn't a "hey, lets bolt a simple 2 bbl carb on this" answer that even comes close to what you are expecting. And I'll even say, that for most guys, EMPI carbs and new (barely better) Webers really don't compare to decent Italian Dellortos. There are sets of DLRAs out there all the time. In my stash I presently own a set of 40s, a set of 45s, a set of "normal" 48s, and the mac-daddy tri-jet 48s. I'm paranoid, because they are NLA and I never want to be without.
For a "normal" 130-150 hp 2110, it's my opinion that you can't do better than a set of 40 Dellortos. Sure, the drag-racers all want you to bolt on bigger carbs and live with a soggy transition for the extra 10 hp above 5500 RPM, but for my money-- the crisp, tight control I get with the 40s is hard to beat. I'm running 45s on my 2276, but I may end up back with 40s before it's all said and done. I've come to really love how they work. They are really that nice.
I've watched many guys fight IDFs until they give up and shell out for a Subaru engine, without ever trying DLRAs. That's OK, but there's a lot of middle-ground between an engine with HPMX carbs and shelling out for a $5K+ power-train transplant. I understand that the water-cooled solution is final, and that the guys who own them don't tinker-- but if you want something better than what you have, and would like to stay with air-cooled stuff... there is something you haven't tried.
That's my experience and opinion. If I can save somebody from the stupid stuff I've done over the years, at least it won't have been for nothing. You can take it or leave it, but forewarned is forearmed.
And somehow I managed this trip with a 1915 AC engine and a single Weber 32/36 back in 2012. No problemo....not one carb adjustment along the way. About 10,000 miles altogether on that engine an no adjustments needed.
http://s1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee361/beezered1/ for those easily amused and like Route 66.
hope the link works. Also...I made the same carb work earlier on a 1.8 l. Soob on a homebuilt Christavia airplane C-FDWS and later again on a 2.7 liter Corvair engine on the same plane. The same type carb....Weber 32/36 works fine on my 2.5 litre Frankenmotor today.
Everyone has their preferences etc. but if you get tired of frigging with dual carbs, you might want to consider a Weber 32/36 center mount. It's not up in the 90 percentile of performance but if you want simple drive ability, the idea provides an easy option.
And there's no need for pain....
