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I've had my 2010 Beck for 1 1/2 years now. Came with a 1600 engine. Bought it with 1700 miles for $21,000. Damn good deal. I am about to spend near $7500. on a 2110. I could/should have waited to get one with a bigger engine for what I will have in it. The 1600 works fine but I wanted more power soon after I bought it. 

Bob...you're info and advice is cemented in stone ?  For who ? Always ? I bought my

Speedster in Idaho late in 2010 for $6,500 and drove it home via the beautiful USA mid west on a 1600 stock engine. I then took it to Florida and back with that engine in early 2011, then swapped out the engine for a 1915 built by a recognized builder near Baltimore and  buggered off on a real nice trip from Sacramento ( thank you again Dave ) about 9,000 miles through 66  and many etc's through Carlisle and up

again to home in Ottawa, Canada. The cam / lifter combo failed and to make it short, I did a homebuilt install of Subaru 2.2l engine and nerver looked back . Easy to do, works fine and inexpensive to boot. I've still got less than $13,000 in the car but over 32,000 miles in 2.5 years to say I've had fun with it. I'm not trying to pyss on your parade...just to show there are alternatives...

Dave, you are a unique individual.  Handy with tools and an iron butt to boot.  I think what Bob is saying is that if a powerful engine is high on the priority list than wait for the one with the larger engine.  Otherwise, buy a car with less power and know that many lusts for more power soon after buying a 1600cc tub.  This is especially true for a young guy like Gazi that grew up driving modern fuel injected cars.  The slowest car he has driven has probably been an 8-9 second 0-60 time.  Gazi, you need to drive many of these cars to see what suits you.  Have you hooked up with the Artist guy in Miami? I believe he owns a JPS Speedster.  Maybe he will let you drive his car. 

 

One positive with Beck is that they are very light so a respectable power to weight ratio is easily achieved.

 

Well, Dave, I do know about 1600 c.c. engines, having owned two Karmann Ghias when I was a little younger.  Plus a early Beetle.  None of them could be described as 'fast' in any sense of the word today.

 

I drove one from Ontario to Cape Breton and back, and always had to gauge the hills and valleys to ensure I could keep my speed up.  As Marty says, younger drivers used to modern cars would find a 1600 c.c. a tad underpowered, but that's just my opinion.

 

As for my 'advice' being cemented in stone, and for everyone, take it as you wish.  I was simply adding to the comments on this thread. 

 

Last edited by Bob: IM S6
Originally Posted by Naughty Gerddddd:

HEY GAZI BUY A FOCKEN CAR AND STOP ASKING QUESTIONS

 

JUST JOKING

LOL! Gazi, Living in Miami your gonna be an instant celebrity.  Valet Park across the street from the Sangmon (spelling) and you will never go home without a right seater. Cant remember the place, but the cocktail waitress's mini was so short that Sandy caught me looking and she gave me a fresh one. 

Car dealers must believe that every car they get is worth $5k more than they paid, at least. If you buy any car from a dealer, make it a local one so you can get the reach-around service.

 

The 1600 is slow, don't kid yourself, but it's absolutely adequate for what these cars are suposed to be used for, which is tooling around, looking cool. My TD Replica has maybe 1500 ccs (maybe 1300--who knows?), single ports and a single carb. She makes 46 horses at 4,000 RPM, which is about 20 less than a decently tuned DP, dual-carbed 1600 will make. And even so I can do 80 mph and travel all day on I-95 if I wanna (though not quite 80 mph all day).

 

Yes, I plan to upgrade someday, and probably to a Soob. But I've been on the road three yeas now, 2-3000 miles each year, and I have this to say about a modest, stock-type 1: it's reliable.

 

Guys running big-bore, mega-stroked Type 1s seem to spend, on average, quite a bit of time and money getting their engines built and fixed--and their cost curve is parabolic. Guys running small engines may upgrade, but seldom because the motor broke.

I've got a different perspective on the whole "what to buy" thing. I'm a major "real engine" proponent, but would say that they are certainly not all the same. A 2332 bolted together by a "Brand-X Xtra Xtreem Awsum Bargan-Blaster Type-1" builder is almost certainly a far worse proposition than buying a car with a more pedestrian, but well-built smaller engine.

 

Unless you know the guy who built the engine, and have determined he is the real deal-- you have no idea of what is going on under the deck-lid. It could be fantastic. It could be a pile. You might not even have what you think you have back there.

 

There's just no good way to get a car that is reliable, powerful, and fun without spending some money. These cars look inexpensive, until you start to expect more of them than sunny-day cruising.

 

Carey typically uses decent engines in his cars. Some other builders do not. For the typical new buyer who's not even sure these cars are a good fit for their individual expectations, I'd say a big-'ol Type 1 is probably NOT a selling point. Building Godzilla is an order of magnitude harder and more expensive (ask Al or Ron or me about that) than screwing together a decent 1776, and that decent 1776 is probably a better starting point anyhow.

Last edited by Stan Galat

Gazi, you need to drive one. They don't fit everyone; that's why you see so many with low mileage. What looks cool doesn't always fit with what feels right.

Of course, if you plan to spend most of your time parking at car shows or waxing it in the garage, no worries.

Also, listen to Stan about the engine. Buying a car with a pedigree engine from a reputable engine builder is key. I had my car built but the engine was a piece of sh!t.

You're doing a lot of research. Seek out owners in your area. Drive their cars, see what the different engine displacements feel like. See if any particular builders fit you better; then look to purchasing.

As far as the Beck goes, good-looking speedster. $21k, tops.

JPS? Just by looking at the fan shroud; a big no.

That particular shroud is a reproduction of the Carrera shroud but it lacks the ability to effectively cool the engine. Using one usually sends a message of form over function. Also be wary of chrome shrouds. Look for OE German VW stock Doghouse shrouds (not as pretty but very efficient), Raby DTM (down the middle) shrouds or, the more common, 36hp doghouse shroud (It replicates the original 356 shroud but isn't as effective as stock or DTM).

Of course, the shroud is just a visual and doesn't indicate the quality of the engine. But it should, at least, raise an eyebrow.

Believe me, if the engine is a sound build, the seller will pull out a build sheet faster than Goofycat rattles off another joke. 

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